Dead Chimaera - no spark at plugs.
Dead Chimaera - no spark at plugs.
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Discussion

GrahamBell2026

Original Poster:

7 posts

1 month

Sunday 25th October
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The other day my Chimaera suddenly died on me. Running great one moment, next moment not running at all.

Checks confirmed good spark from king lead but no spark at plugs. No obvious faults within distributor cap, the air gap in the distributor pick up is correct, rotor arm is expensive Distributor Doctor item so shouldn't be tracking, and it's whizzing around quite happily.

All fuses and ignition feeds relay OK and with nice clean contacts. Coil has 1.1 ohm on primary and 52500 ohm on secondary, so coil looks OK.

Was getting nominal 12V at the coil +ve with ignition on, but also getting 12V between battery +ve and coil -ve with ignition off, which according to Haynes manual indicates fault in amplifier unit. So got new Powerspark module and car still won't start and is still showing 12V between battery +ve and coil -ve with ignition off. It's still also showing nominal 12V at coil +ve and still has good spark from king lead but nothing at plugs.

Could faulty distributor pick up cause this? (Still shows 12V at coil -ve with pick up disconnected.) Otherwise I'm out of ideas, so any suggestions welcomed.

And if I can't fix it, can anyone recommend a good TVR savvy garage in central Warwickshire who could sort it out?

foccer

54 posts

16 months

Sunday 25th October
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Just becasue the rotor is expensive, doesnt mean its the right one. Is it making contact with the cap contacts? Try a new cap and rotor.

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

315 months

Sunday 25th October
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If you have a spark at the king lead, doesn't that suggest that everything up to the king lead is working?

I suppose I could contrive a bizarre electronic failure which caused a spark at the wrong time wrt rotor arm position, but there's nothing to make me think that's happening here.

Is the vac advance cannister still plumbed in and holding vacuum?

Can you gently twist the rotor arm to increase the advance and feel it spring back to the rest position again?

silentbrown

11,010 posts

147 months

Sunday 25th October
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Odd. No spark at all at the plugs? None of them?

Sure you're testing for a spark at the plugs correctly? Needs to have a good ground for the plug body.

Engine earth strap failed??

Belle427

11,994 posts

264 months

Monday 26th October
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Do you have 12 volts at the coil positive terminal when cranking?
Worth checking this if your just doing it ignition on.
Powerspark stuff is junk so i would get an original old stock module, not that im saying its that.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133318230946?_skw=lucas...

Zeb74

489 posts

160 months

Monday 26th October
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Do you still have the plug extenders?

GrahamBell2026

Original Poster:

7 posts

1 month

Tuesday 27th October
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Well don't know what happened to my response yesterday. Anyway, thanks again for all the replies chaps.

Decided to set the engine to TDC to check that all the timing was still aligned - which it was. While I had the distributor cap off I thought I might as well stick the old rotor arm in. Took number 2 plug out and laid it on top of plenum to check for spark I wasn't expecting to see - and it bloody well fired up!

Have just run it up to temperature, so once it's cooled down I'll try it with the Distributor Doctor rotor arm back in and see how that goes.

GrahamBell2026

Original Poster:

7 posts

1 month

Tuesday 27th October
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Well just tried it again with the Distributor Doctor rotor arm and it wouldn't start. Put the old Lucas arm back in and it fired up straight away. So the Distributor Doctor rotor arm is clearly the culprit, though I can't work out why as I can't see anything wrong with it. Still, problem sorted which is the main thing.

Belle427

11,994 posts

264 months

Tuesday 27th October
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Unusual, his stuff was said to be high quality but probably another one to put on the proceed with caution list!

GrahamBell2026

Original Poster:

7 posts

1 month

Tuesday 27th October
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Yes, that's why I got one, following tales of cheap Chinese aftermarket arms with too much carbon black tracking and shorting out.

Belle427

11,994 posts

264 months

Tuesday 27th October
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If you have the original lucas one its probably worth sticking with.

indigochim

2,089 posts

161 months

Thursday 29th October
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I had a DD rotor arm let me down a few 100 meters from the end of the Peeks to the Beach a couple of years ago. I was very disappointed as you think you're buying parts to protect you from failure. I now cary spares of many of the ignition components just in case.

Byker28i

93,240 posts

248 months

Thursday 29th October
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Yup, been out with others and had failures of rotor arms from known suppliers, but also dizzy caps as well, with the central carbon brush breaking in half/off, so no contact made

GrahamBell2026

Original Poster:

7 posts

1 month

Thursday 29th October
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Doesn't say much for the quality of modern parts does it? This is the second part that's let me down after I decided that the old ignition parts were due a replacement (the first being the Viper coil). So now running with old black Bosch coil and old Lucas rotor arm. Original distributor cap and plug leads on standby....

Belle427

11,994 posts

264 months

Thursday 29th October
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I would report the failure to the distributor doctor though, they may have it back for testing.

Byker28i

93,240 posts

248 months

Friday 30th October
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I've seen a rotor arm on a griff not be insulated but conduct the high voltage, effectively earthing it, hence a really poor, barely existent spark.
That was a couple of years back., and was sorted with putting the old rotor arm back on after a clean

GrahamBell2026

Original Poster:

7 posts

1 month

Saturday 31st October
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I suppose I could have contacted Distributor Doctor about returning it for testing - except I've now thrown it out. But not sure they would have been interested anyway as it was several years old when it suddenly failed.

Belle427

11,994 posts

264 months

Sunday 1st November
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Not too bad then depending on mileage.