Is Mobile 1 F1 oil too thin?!
Is Mobile 1 F1 oil too thin?!
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Discussion

mycerbera

Original Poster:

413 posts

294 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
Recently bought a 97 Griffith 500 and have been concerned with the oil usage, so decided I better top it up to max and then reset the odometer and see how much it was using.
After 270ml trip checked dipstick and found that now it only had a 1/3 left on the dipstick before the min level! So using 2/3rds of the dipstick oil level in 270mls! Not sure how much oil is between max and min levels 1-2 litres I guess?
Have spoken to some who say Mobile one is too thin hence the amount being used and I should get some proper oil for it instead!
Steve Howard at Precision Racing is having it in for a service on Saturday so will see what he thinks.
But anyone who can offer some words of advice/experience would be welcomed.
The Griff seems to have no visible leaks and is not blowing it out the rear.
Has the normal black soot on cold start but this could be because it's set-up a bit rich I guess.

apache

39,731 posts

311 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all

Recently bought a 97 Griffith 500 and have been concerned with the oil usage, so decided I better top it up to max and then reset the odometer and see how much it was using.
After 270ml trip checked dipstick and found that now it only had a 1/3 left on the dipstick before the min level! So using 2/3rds of the dipstick oil level in 270mls! Not sure how much oil is between max and min levels 1-2 litres I guess?
Have spoken to some who say Mobile one is too thin hence the amount being used and I should get some proper oil for it instead!
Steve Howard at Precision Racing is having it in for a service on Saturday so will see what he thinks.
But anyone who can offer some words of advice/experience would be welcomed.
The Griff seems to have no visible leaks and is not blowing it out the rear.
Has the normal black soot on cold start but this could be because it's set-up a bit rich I guess.


Yes it's too thin, no the soot is a byproduct of this, Steve advised me to use 5/40 synth, oil consumption not noticeable, no soot either.

Stig

11,823 posts

311 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
Use Valvoline Racing, it's top stuff.

tamago

532 posts

289 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
had my chim serviced by David Batty yesterday, I supplied my own oil, Mobil 1 Motorsport 15/50. Higher vicosity boosts the oil pressure and I think will withstand the elements when I climb the Alps this August with the Chim...
I am not expecting to burn much oil, but I guess we shall see....

aaandy

764 posts

279 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
I also have Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w/50 fully synth in my 1998 chimaera 400, which was what was recommended to me by the guys at Fernhurst. Since it was last topped up I have covered over 400 miles and it has barely used any.

Most of the large Halfords sell it. Just go to the Halfords site and do a phone around of all your local stores and one of them should have it or they should be able to order it for you.

jodypress

2,091 posts

301 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all

aaandy said: I also have Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w/50 fully synth in my 1998 chimaera 400, which was what was recommended to me by the guys at Fernhurst. Since it was last topped up I have covered over 400 miles and it has barely used any.

Most of the large Halfords sell it. Just go to the Halfords site and do a phone around of all your local stores and one of them should have it or they should be able to order it for you.


i agree 15w/50 is way to go, but look carefully in halfords, very easy to buy 5w/40

icamm

2,153 posts

287 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
Last time I asked Steve Howard he didn't use Mobile 1 at all. It was some 15w50 fully synth stuff though. It's what he uses in the Tuscan racers so should be okay. Ask him for an extra can for top-up purposes.

My last oil change was done at Tower View and they put Mobil 1 Motorsport in. I second he point about checking carefully if buying from Halfords as the cans are very similar.

davidd

6,709 posts

311 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
Interesting.

Whilst not suggesting y9ou should not move to thicker oil, I would say that the consumption you are seeing is high. My old Griff used to do about 1k miles per litre. Driving hard through europe (130-140mph on autoroutes all day) that dropped to about 1 litre per 500-600 miles, still less than you are using.

However saying that these are pretty hand built engines so if the consumption is stable then it might well be fine. I guess the answer is to get it checked out.

Good Luck!

D.

gazzab

21,610 posts

309 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
Gulp - good luck with the engine. Dont think you want another engine problem!!?
I feel that there are other benefits to the thin oil ie gets heated up quicker.

jigs

295 posts

279 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all
At that sort of consumption I'd be tempted to put the oil in the petrol tank and the Optimax in the sump.

PS Don't take this seriously - please.

stainless_steve

6,050 posts

285 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
quotequote all

Stig said: Use Valvoline Racing, it's top stuff.


Did you use that in the Wedge too?

ric p

706 posts

296 months

Thursday 15th May 2003
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I was advised by a Scottish service agent to use Castrol GTX not Mobil 1 as it was of a higher viscosity, 15/40 I believe. They also said, interestingly, that this was how TVR used to quieten down those engines that were too tappety (?) when running. That was for my 4.3 Chimp and it is what I put in my 400se now with the result of higher pressure. The oil is changed regularly (3000 or so) and it is not as if it is a high revving high tech lump!

kevinday

13,766 posts

307 months

Friday 16th May 2003
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For a Rover V8 I have used mineral or semi-synthetic 15/50 and changed it every 3000 miles. No engine problems or oil pressure problems arose. IMHO the engine design does not warrant the expense of fully-synthetic with changing at 3000 mile intervals being best.

mojorider

235 posts

286 months

Friday 16th May 2003
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Steve Howard took mine off the mobil 1 and onto the 15/50 and now very little use of oil and better presure.

digga

47,595 posts

310 months

Friday 16th May 2003
quotequote all
Excuse my ignorance, but (possbily from comments on previous threads) I thought the two numbers (i.e. '5' & '40') related to viscosity and max. temperature respectively.

If, as we're so often told, most engine wear occurs at start-up (particularly cold start), then wouldn't thinner oils (where the first number is lower) better prevent engine wear?

I guess, thicker oils are better for higher temperature running, and may be more resitant to oil surge, but I really don't know, and would love to get some definitive advice on the subject.

Can anyone enlighten us?!

pilot_ian

45 posts

292 months

Friday 16th May 2003
quotequote all

digga said: Excuse my ignorance, but (possbily from comments on previous threads) I thought the two numbers (i.e. '5' & '40') related to viscosity and max. temperature respectively.

If, as we're so often told, most engine wear occurs at start-up (particularly cold start), then wouldn't thinner oils (where the first number is lower) better prevent engine wear?

I guess, thicker oils are better for higher temperature running, and may be more resitant to oil surge, but I really don't know, and would love to get some definitive advice on the subject.

Can anyone enlighten us?!



Hi Marcus

Probably get beaten to the reply but, for what it's worth, this is my understanding.

Oil gets thinner as it heats up.
For cold starting you need a thin oil, low viscosity, to ease turning over issues.
At high temperatures you require a higher viscosity oil so that it is still able to lubricate adequately even though it has thinned with temperature.
These two goals are incompatible for a single grade oil.
The oil magicians therefore concoct a mixture, a multigrade, which gives pretty much the best of both worlds.
The two numbers are the low and high viscosity numbers characteristic of that blend.

Cheers
Ian

rab c

3,692 posts

280 months

Friday 16th May 2003
quotequote all
The first number is the viscosity at low a temp the second at high and the W stands for winter so the best oil would have the greatest possable differance between the numbers.Castrol used to make RS wich was a 10/60 and was superb but they no longer make it, I have found selenia 10/60 oil to be good.

mycerbera

Original Poster:

413 posts

294 months

Saturday 17th May 2003
quotequote all
Steve's Verdict:
Head gasket gone!! Oh and the clutch!!
What a week! (redundancey, damage, now this!)

>> Edited by mycerbera on Saturday 17th May 22:51

gazzab

21,610 posts

309 months

Sunday 18th May 2003
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selling again?

EdT

5,231 posts

311 months

Sunday 18th May 2003
quotequote all

mycerbera said: Steve's Verdict:
Head gasket gone!! Oh and the clutch!!
What a week! (redundancey, damage, now this!)

>> Edited by mycerbera on Saturday 17th May 22:51


Blimey - not a lucky marque for you eh ?

Ed