Waxoyl chassis London/Surrey area TVR S2

[Brentford35]

Hi All,

Does anyone know somewhere that will heat jet wash the underside of the car to remove the last of the flaking ummm protection and then waxoyl it?

I live near Heathrow so looking for somewhere fairly local, reasonably priced and recommended.

I tried David Batty in Guildford but he doesn’t do it anymore.

The car is a TVR S2.

I had considered doing it myself with axel stands on the driveway (plastic sheeting underneath), but I’m guessing the colder, damp weather won’t help the drying process. Plus i have a funny feeling it’s a very mucky job and maybe best left to professionals.

Thanks

[Steve_D]

What do you think you are going to gain by doing it?
If you were to remove, and treat, all the rust then it may work on the areas you can see but putting it over rust will do nothing but cost money/effort and you still won't reach the bits that are really rusting.
Better to put the money in a pot ready for a chassis refurb.

Steve

[Brentford35]

Steve_D said:

What do you think you are going to gain by doing it?
If you were to remove, and treat, all the rust then it may work on the areas you can see but putting it over rust will do nothing but cost money/effort and you still won't reach the bits that are really rusting.
Better to put the money in a pot ready for a chassis refurb.

Steve

Hi Steve, I have rubbed down the chassis, rust proofed it and there is now no surface rust visible. Plus I have cut out the rotten part of one outrigger and welded in a new section.

After all this effort and considering the chassis is in good order I want to prolong its life. That's why I was considering waxoyling it

[phillpot]

If it's all cleaned up, repaired and de-rusted a few coats of decent ( Rustoleum ? ) paint will protect it, don't smother everything in that gooey muck..... imho

[billynobrakes]

phillpot said:

If it's all cleaned up, repaired and de-rusted a few coats of decent ( Rustoleum ? ) paint will protect it, don't smother everything in that gooey muck..... imho

Totally agree don't use Wax oil its awful stuff, use POR or similar

[Brentford35]

I’ve got hammerite but read it’s too brittle for chassis painting, have any of you tried that? The only reason I thought of waxoyl is after reading a few posts on classic cars and people have used it

[ianwayne]

I used white smooth hammerite on my last Chimaera's outriggers.It did chip off in a few places but was still mostly intact 2 yrs later when I sold it. Surface rust WAS, however starting to come through again on the plate corners. It avoided me replacing them however.

I've used the silver version on the present car on the upper rear wishbones (front ones had to be changed - too far gone). The recipe of Hammerite seems to have changed, seems slightly softer, and no matter how hard I hit the lid down ,it seems to go off in the tin once it's opened. Time will tell.

[phillpot]

Hammerite would not be my first choice.


Sealing the lid back on with masking tape may help. Decant some paint into a jar or whatever to avoid too much mess around the rim of the tin.


With any of these "straight to metal" paints I would still use a Red Oxide primer/undercoat.

[motul1974]

Check out Buzzweld guys. It's beginning to be very popular amongst the Landie guys, and their trucks go through way more stuff than our delicate little things!
Need a very good key though, but will seal and kill the rust and is very hard and durable. My local land rover garage has begun using it.

[Brentford35]

Are you saying once we put this Land Rover stuff on the S2 could be used for off roading ha ha!

Nice to get so much useful advice here, thanks everyone. I’ve seen hammerite do a paint with ‘added’ waxoyl, surely that has the best of both lol

[ianwayne]

phillpot said:

Hammerite would not be my first choice.


Sealing the lid back on with masking tape may help. Decant some paint into a jar or whatever to avoid too much mess around the rim of the tin.


With any of these "straight to metal" paints I would still use a Red Oxide primer/undercoat.

I used Vactan first on any surface rust which acts as a primer too. Too cold to use it now outside, so I'm glad we had a mild October!

[blitzracing]

OK - Waxoyle is mucky stuff, and it does go off with age, so you need to retreat it with a solution thinned down with white spirit every few years to soften it up again, but this photo says a lot - two Ginetta chassis of the same age, one treated, one not, over the best described flash coat of chassis black on the chassis when new.

[Steve_D]

Brentford35 said:

Steve_D said:

What do you think you are going to gain by doing it?
If you were to remove, and treat, all the rust then it may work on the areas you can see but putting it over rust will do nothing but cost money/effort and you still won't reach the bits that are really rusting.
Better to put the money in a pot ready for a chassis refurb.

Steve

Hi Steve, I have rubbed down the chassis, rust proofed it and there is now no surface rust visible. Plus I have cut out the rotten part of one outrigger and welded in a new section.

After all this effort and considering the chassis is in good order I want to prolong its life. That's why I was considering waxoyling it

If you are confident you have treated all the rust then paint it with 'Rustbuster 121 two pack'

Steve