Car battery life
Discussion
The Sagaris engine was getting reluctant to turn over when cold so I thought it was time to replace the battery.
When I got the old one out I found it was the original, made in 2004, fitted in 2005. So it has lasted 15 years. Not bad going!
What is the longest life others have experienced?
When I got the old one out I found it was the original, made in 2004, fitted in 2005. So it has lasted 15 years. Not bad going!
What is the longest life others have experienced?
Got the feeling mine is original as well. No sign in the very comprehensive service history and receipts of a replacement anywhere. As per the other running thread I am seeing an issue when cold of just a click from the starter a few times before it turns over. Suspect it may well be battery related rather than starter as its getting on a bit.
Unlike my Cerbera which ate batteries!
Unlike my Cerbera which ate batteries!
That's becoming my experience. My Cerbera 4.5 needs to spin fairly fast to start. Put a new battery on only 6 weeks ago (old one would only hold about 30% charge), and if I leave it more than 2 days, it only just turns fast enough to start. I've checked for parasitic drain and it seems to be 40mA with the car locked and alarm activated, 20mA unlocked. Guess what I'm doing most of the time... 
When safe of course.
When I changed the battery on my last Chimaera, I discovered it was 9 years old but the OP's 15 years is impressive!
When safe of course.When I changed the battery on my last Chimaera, I discovered it was 9 years old but the OP's 15 years is impressive!
A lot depends on the weather conditions. In Texas where it gets to 110 degrees in the summer (maybe 130 degrees f inside a locked garage) , you'd be lucky to get 5 years from a battery. I've seem them last ages in cooler climates.
Open up the caps and add some distilled water. I'd be willing to bet that you'll get a bit more from it.
Open up the caps and add some distilled water. I'd be willing to bet that you'll get a bit more from it.
ianwayne said:
That's becoming my experience. My Cerbera 4.5 needs to spin fairly fast to start. Put a new battery on only 6 weeks ago (old one would only hold about 30% charge), and if I leave it more than 2 days, it only just turns fast enough to start. I've checked for parasitic drain and it seems to be 40mA with the car locked and alarm activated, 20mA unlocked. Guess what I'm doing most of the time... When safe of course.
When I changed the battery on my last Chimaera, I discovered it was 9 years old but the OP's 15 years is impressive!
Optima Red Top in my Cerb in the end - was superb, span on the starter like a turbo! However was always on an Accumate trickle charger When safe of course.When I changed the battery on my last Chimaera, I discovered it was 9 years old but the OP's 15 years is impressive!
In reality, nobody wants to risk being stranded for the cost of a new battery, but a few quick checks can point to the general health of a battery.
Static voltage is easily checked with a voltmeter, turn head-lights on for 20 seconds or so to remove any residual charge, then connect the meter.
If it shows 12.4 or less, the battery should be placed on a trickle charge. Due to hibernation, it's likely most TVRs are connected to a battery conditioner of some sort anyway now.
12.4 volts is a critical point, beyond which a battery begins to sulphate (self destruct).
Once charged - 100% is 12.70 volts, keep an eye on the batteries ability to retain the charge. If the battery is unable to hold charge it's time to change.
The other test is a load test - this too can be done with a volt meter, and depending where your battery is located you may need a friend to assist.
Basically attach the meter to the relevant battery terminals and keep watch on the display as you start the engine.
The voltage will drop, then quickly recover, but it's the lowest reading that is important - if it's lower than about 9.6v the battery is weakening and needs to be replaced.
So irrespective of age these easy tests can help you determine whether or not to replace your battery.
Static voltage is easily checked with a voltmeter, turn head-lights on for 20 seconds or so to remove any residual charge, then connect the meter.
If it shows 12.4 or less, the battery should be placed on a trickle charge. Due to hibernation, it's likely most TVRs are connected to a battery conditioner of some sort anyway now.
12.4 volts is a critical point, beyond which a battery begins to sulphate (self destruct).
Once charged - 100% is 12.70 volts, keep an eye on the batteries ability to retain the charge. If the battery is unable to hold charge it's time to change.
The other test is a load test - this too can be done with a volt meter, and depending where your battery is located you may need a friend to assist.
Basically attach the meter to the relevant battery terminals and keep watch on the display as you start the engine.
The voltage will drop, then quickly recover, but it's the lowest reading that is important - if it's lower than about 9.6v the battery is weakening and needs to be replaced.
So irrespective of age these easy tests can help you determine whether or not to replace your battery.
A battery has 6 cells each producing 2.1v. That is 12.6v. That is ideally the minimum you want to see before starting the car.
A load test is not as accurate as a recovery test. Simply take a reading, hopefully 12.6v, then switch the headlights on for around 30 seconds. The voltage will of course start dropping. Switch the headlights off noting the lowest reading. Lets say its 11.8v. Now watch the voltmeter and if the battery is in good condition it will recover at roughly 0.1v every 2 to 5 seconds. It should continue to climb until it reaches 12.6v again. If it stops at say, 12.4v, then the battery is a little tired and a battery recondition program using an Accumate or Cetek or other intelligent charger will prolong the life.
A load test is not as accurate as a recovery test. Simply take a reading, hopefully 12.6v, then switch the headlights on for around 30 seconds. The voltage will of course start dropping. Switch the headlights off noting the lowest reading. Lets say its 11.8v. Now watch the voltmeter and if the battery is in good condition it will recover at roughly 0.1v every 2 to 5 seconds. It should continue to climb until it reaches 12.6v again. If it stops at say, 12.4v, then the battery is a little tired and a battery recondition program using an Accumate or Cetek or other intelligent charger will prolong the life.
N7GTX said:
A battery has 6 cells each producing 2.1v. That is 12.6v. That is ideally the minimum you want to see before starting the car.
A load test is not as accurate as a recovery test. Simply take a reading, hopefully 12.6v, then switch the headlights on for around 30 seconds. The voltage will of course start dropping. Switch the headlights off noting the lowest reading. Lets say its 11.8v. Now watch the voltmeter and if the battery is in good condition it will recover at roughly 0.1v every 2 to 5 seconds. It should continue to climb until it reaches 12.6v again. If it stops at say, 12.4v, then the battery is a little tired and a battery recondition program using an Accumate or Cetek or other intelligent charger will prolong the life.
That's what you'd expect (12.6V) from a new battery or one at 100% charge. After a few days connected to a car, it'll be below 12.6V. My brand new out the box battery was 12.68V. Your point about 12.4V is a very good one, my Cerbera will spin over very fast at that. Below 12.4V, it only just starts; the other point earlier about sulphation at 12.4V a good one.A load test is not as accurate as a recovery test. Simply take a reading, hopefully 12.6v, then switch the headlights on for around 30 seconds. The voltage will of course start dropping. Switch the headlights off noting the lowest reading. Lets say its 11.8v. Now watch the voltmeter and if the battery is in good condition it will recover at roughly 0.1v every 2 to 5 seconds. It should continue to climb until it reaches 12.6v again. If it stops at say, 12.4v, then the battery is a little tired and a battery recondition program using an Accumate or Cetek or other intelligent charger will prolong the life.
On the other hand, the Chimaera will start with a battery with barely 12.2V potential!. Not as hard to start that one.
It's also worthwhile checking the alternator before condemning a battery, as a new battery will quickly go the same way if the alternator isn't charging correctly.
As with previous tests - voltmeter across battery terminals- you should see around 13.6 - 14.4 volts with the engine running.
As with previous tests - voltmeter across battery terminals- you should see around 13.6 - 14.4 volts with the engine running.
Can anyone recommend what battery to get & where from (that delivers).
My Tuscan battery is dead & I'm working away during the week so don't want to waste the weekend collecting one, which is all that the usual parts suppliers offer.
ISTR that a 96R is what's needed, but are there variations on the mounting lugs?
My Tuscan battery is dead & I'm working away during the week so don't want to waste the weekend collecting one, which is all that the usual parts suppliers offer.
ISTR that a 96R is what's needed, but are there variations on the mounting lugs?
I replaced the battery when I first got my Cerbera with an Optima Red Top which lasted until last year when the engine was rebuilt. I suspect the battery was taken off and just left in a corner for the 7 months it took. The car always sits on a trickle charge in my garage.
Replaced it with another Red Top
Replaced it with another Red Top
Leadfoot said:
Can anyone recommend what battery to get & where from (that delivers).
My Tuscan battery is dead & I'm working away during the week so don't want to waste the weekend collecting one, which is all that the usual parts suppliers offer.
ISTR that a 96R is what's needed, but are there variations on the mounting lugs?
Couple of threads that might help;My Tuscan battery is dead & I'm working away during the week so don't want to waste the weekend collecting one, which is all that the usual parts suppliers offer.
ISTR that a 96R is what's needed, but are there variations on the mounting lugs?
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
You need to check the terminal layout from each manufacturer as some have the same number but different positioning.
For the Tuscan I'd go with a Yuasa YBX3086. Widely available online and from retail outlets. My Sagaris has the terminals the other way around so I went with a Yuasa YBX3096.
For the Tuscan I'd go with a Yuasa YBX3086. Widely available online and from retail outlets. My Sagaris has the terminals the other way around so I went with a Yuasa YBX3096.
ianwayne said:
That's becoming my experience. My Cerbera 4.5 needs to spin fairly fast to start. Put a new battery on only 6 weeks ago (old one would only hold about 30% charge), and if I leave it more than 2 days, it only just turns fast enough to start.
Something very wrong with that I think, mine will last around 5-6 weeks before I start to worry about it not starting Not sure if it makes a difference but it's an Odyssey battery, must be around 10 years old I would think.
Edited by TheRainMaker on Sunday 24th February 13:54
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