Help please - sheered crankshaft pulley bolt
Discussion
Hi Kieran
Not sure I understand, is the pulley jammed in? Normally the pulley can be removed and replaced with the engine in situ I believe.
Do you have a picture?
You might be able to get a drill to the remains of the bolt and then use one of those stud extractor type tools.
However as you say it depends on the cause, I wouldn't try to turn it over on the starter. If you can get the pulley reattached then turning it over by hand with a long lever and spark plugs out, would be my choice. Otherwise maybe drop the sump and see what you can see from underneath?
Not sure I understand, is the pulley jammed in? Normally the pulley can be removed and replaced with the engine in situ I believe.
Do you have a picture?
You might be able to get a drill to the remains of the bolt and then use one of those stud extractor type tools.
However as you say it depends on the cause, I wouldn't try to turn it over on the starter. If you can get the pulley reattached then turning it over by hand with a long lever and spark plugs out, would be my choice. Otherwise maybe drop the sump and see what you can see from underneath?
Edited by Colin RedGriff on Tuesday 6th May 16:23
The problem is that as the bolt sheared off it's going to be really hard to extract the remains from the crank. This bolt goes in with 270nM IIRC so extracting what's left will be hard with a stud extractor. I would think this will be pretty difficult with the engine in situ due to access. I'm sure one of the specialists like TVR Power will have seen this before and will offer good advice.
I've not heard of any other engine failure that would have this as an externally visible symptom but I wait to be corrected...
You can get a lot more access to the area on the Griff by removing the front crossmember.
I've not heard of any other engine failure that would have this as an externally visible symptom but I wait to be corrected...
You can get a lot more access to the area on the Griff by removing the front crossmember.
Can just signify bolt failure due to fatigue..They often get abused when pulling pulleys and dampers etc off and on the car..
It can also signify a snapped crank but looking at the photos doesn't show any other areas of damage due to crank thrust etc.
If you can get to the front of it easily you may be able to drill and tap another bolt in place to facilitate welding a bolt to it. Stud extractors are brittle and likely to snap in the drilled hole.Likely as not though because of the torque used you will be on a hiding to nothing…
Drilling and tapping an opposite handed thread may be the way forward if you are going to try to do it in situ
I fear your gonna end up pulling the engine or at least dropping the sump for a look at the bottom ends.
The photo does appear to show some corrosion fatigue at the top r/h side of the sheared bolt but it just may be the photo.
N.
It can also signify a snapped crank but looking at the photos doesn't show any other areas of damage due to crank thrust etc.
If you can get to the front of it easily you may be able to drill and tap another bolt in place to facilitate welding a bolt to it. Stud extractors are brittle and likely to snap in the drilled hole.Likely as not though because of the torque used you will be on a hiding to nothing…
Drilling and tapping an opposite handed thread may be the way forward if you are going to try to do it in situ
I fear your gonna end up pulling the engine or at least dropping the sump for a look at the bottom ends.
The photo does appear to show some corrosion fatigue at the top r/h side of the sheared bolt but it just may be the photo.
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Tuesday 6th May 17:27
chrispitman said:
It should'nt be that tight because the 250ft lb is between the threads and head of bolt this is now snapped off so its just sat in the treads, aslong as it wasn't cross threaded it shouldn't be to bad to remove.
It shouldn't be but a lot of builders use retaining compounds and thread locker to prevent pulleys coming off at speed??There is enough projection to make up a jig to get a centre pop dead centre in the hole. This should allow drilling to side and re-tapping a thread. all assuming some reasonable access
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Tuesday 6th May 18:08
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