Anyone used anything other than cable ties on chassis?
Anyone used anything other than cable ties on chassis?
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Discussion

my250gt

Original Poster:

635 posts

245 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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About to start my chassis rebuild and wondered if anyone found a better way to fit hoses etc other than cable ties?

magpies

5,193 posts

208 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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as you are about to refurbish the chassis then the best thing to do is weld brackets to the chassis for P clips / saddle clips and the like. Then these will be coated with the rest of the chassis and not added after.

Twistygit

800 posts

179 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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Just started mine also and was going to ask the same thing, that's a good idea I think I'll do that

my250gt

Original Poster:

635 posts

245 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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Just sent mine off for blasting and etch primering, so too late for me. A pop rivet p clip would work ok on the box section but not very practical on the top round tubes, so I guess cable ties will be fine for those.

RichB

55,764 posts

310 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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Out if interest, what's wrong with cable ties? Last for ever and don't require drilling the chassis.

hidetheelephants

34,520 posts

219 months

Friday 27th June 2014
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They don't positively locate the pipe/tube/cable, so it can migrate from where you place it, they hold the pipe/tube/cable against the chassis tube where it can fret and abrade the chassis tube coating and the pipe/tube/cable itself, as opposed to a proper pipe clip or P clip which gives a stand off.

RichB

55,764 posts

310 months

Friday 27th June 2014
quotequote all
hidetheelephants said:
They don't positively locate the pipe/tube/cable, so it can migrate from where you place it, they hold the pipe/tube/cable against the chassis tube where it can fret and abrade the chassis tube coating and the pipe/tube/cable itself, as opposed to a proper pipe clip or P clip which gives a stand off.
Right I see...

my250gt

Original Poster:

635 posts

245 months

Friday 27th June 2014
quotequote all
Cables ties on the lower main rails trap a lot of dirt too, there were a couple of rusty bits on my chassis caused by this so want to avoid it if poss.

hidetheelephants

34,520 posts

219 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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RichB said:
hidetheelephants said:
They don't positively locate the pipe/tube/cable, so it can migrate from where you place it, they hold the pipe/tube/cable against the chassis tube where it can fret and abrade the chassis tube coating and the pipe/tube/cable itself, as opposed to a proper pipe clip or P clip which gives a stand off.
Right I see...
Don't get me wrong, I've used zip ties myself when I've been in a hurry or appropriate clips haven't been readily available, but they are not ideal. A compromise solution I used was putting the pipe in a short length of rubber or plastic hose where the zip tie was, or wrapping it with a bit of self-amalgamating tape, to give a little stand-off and reduce fretting.

heightswitch

6,322 posts

276 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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They don't rub anything if you fit them properly…On brake lines I use washer hose as an outer sleeve to guard against chafing. hoses etc can be wrapped prior to tie wrapping.
Under exhaust manifolds its always better to use metal ties since poly ones can and often do melt and snap due to heat.
N.

Twistygit

800 posts

179 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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heightswitch said:
They don't rub anything if you fit them properly…On brake lines I use washer hose as an outer sleeve to guard against chafing. hoses etc can be wrapped prior to tie wrapping.
Under exhaust manifolds its always better to use metal ties since poly ones can and often do melt and snap due to heat.
N.
Yeah they work but it's a bodge job, and if you've got everything off surely something a bit more professional is better. Some plastic clamps for the brake pipes and copper fuel pipes would be good I think

samnorthy

288 posts

233 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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Here's what I did, took a bit of time but well worth it.






heightswitch

6,322 posts

276 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
quotequote all
Twistygit said:
Yeah they work but it's a bodge job, and if you've got everything off surely something a bit more professional is better. Some plastic clamps for the brake pipes and copper fuel pipes would be good I think
Don't think I bodge anything!
They are replaceable in seconds, last a long time and infinitely better than drilling a hole into a chassis member to place a self tapper..Rust in my experience always starts around drilled holes..and poorly maintained cars which only get washed and cleaned on the top surfaces.
If you are rebuilding from the ground up then going to the trouble of welding nuts to the chassis is nice…Bit anal perhaps smile


This one seems ok on Tie wraps on its 46 year old original chassis ??



Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 28th June 13:58

my250gt

Original Poster:

635 posts

245 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
quotequote all
Neil, how close does your manifold come to those ties, problem with mine is the manifolds are an inch away from the top tubes. On my 92 griff which i polybushed, i had a piece of heat reflective that covered the top wishbone bushes and this also covered the ties so no problem. I guess i could use thin lightweight stainless steel hose bands or similar in place of plastic, just where the heat is? it is really just along the main lower rails which got me thinking about using something other than ties, which i agree are fine for the brake lines attached to the the round tubes, but i dont like the ties under the car catching all the crap.
Might get me some of these,....


http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/red-aluminiu...lick

BarnFind

504 posts

172 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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RichB said:
Out if interest, what's wrong with cable ties? Last for ever and don't require drilling the chassis.
Be very carefull on the quality of the ties used,i've just just dumped a bunch which had a habit of snapping after a while in a minor stress location

heightswitch

6,322 posts

276 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
quotequote all
my250gt said:
Neil, how close does your manifold come to those ties, problem with mine is the manifolds are an inch away from the top tubes. On my 92 griff which i polybushed, i had a piece of heat reflective that covered the top wishbone bushes and this also covered the ties so no problem. I guess i could use thin lightweight stainless steel hose bands or similar in place of plastic, just where the heat is? it is really just along the main lower rails which got me thinking about using something other than ties, which i agree are fine for the brake lines attached to the the round tubes, but i dont like the ties under the car catching all the crap.
Might get me some of these,....


http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/red-aluminiu...lick
On the vixen a mile away. On the griff they run very close but I inspect the racer very very frequently. On a road car I would use stainless band ties in the vicinity of the exhausts..

I hope the welded nut solution were fully welded. In my experience if their is a joint which isn't sealed you will get rust staining coming from the joint…then again the person going to that length will no doubt be cleaning them every weekend hehe

N.

Twistygit

800 posts

179 months

Saturday 28th June 2014
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Whilst under today thought body body got awfully close to chassis so maybe not a good idea to weld brackets on

330p4

668 posts

256 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
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Why not just drill and fit rivnut a lot less trouble.
Ian

330p4

668 posts

256 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
quotequote all
Why not just drill and fit rivnut a lot less trouble.
Ian

330p4

668 posts

256 months

Sunday 29th June 2014
quotequote all
Why not just drill and fit rivnut a lot less trouble.
Ian