Suspension squeak
Discussion
Folks, I'm so pleased to have tracked down an annoying squeak/creak from the rear suspension on my Tuscan. I'm using Gaz Gold Pro's - and they were (all) sent away in February 2015 for a check and re-furbish. I also bought new road springs too.
The offending noise would not disappear, even after repeated applications of WD-40, removing damper/road spring units and applying copper-slip to the bolts.
Finally, after getting very frustrated, I went around my mates house to get a fresh pair of eyes ....and to use his garage pit!
Long story short - eventually, after dis-mounting the coil overs, we were able to prove that the wishbone and ARB bushes were not the source. Inspecting the coil-overs/bushes, we thought the 'top-hat' spacers looked pretty cruddy, particularly the lower fixing. When we eventually prised the spacers out of the bush, it was apparent the spherical bearing was pretty well seized. Liberal application of WD had both ends moving freely. We re-assembled the top-hat spacers using copper-lube, and then bolted the coil-over into the suspension...Result!!! No squeaks or creaking.
Thought it was worth sharing as I'd had the problem intermittently for a while. It is a relatively quick and easy 'service' to perform and might help others!
Nick
The offending noise would not disappear, even after repeated applications of WD-40, removing damper/road spring units and applying copper-slip to the bolts.
Finally, after getting very frustrated, I went around my mates house to get a fresh pair of eyes ....and to use his garage pit!
Long story short - eventually, after dis-mounting the coil overs, we were able to prove that the wishbone and ARB bushes were not the source. Inspecting the coil-overs/bushes, we thought the 'top-hat' spacers looked pretty cruddy, particularly the lower fixing. When we eventually prised the spacers out of the bush, it was apparent the spherical bearing was pretty well seized. Liberal application of WD had both ends moving freely. We re-assembled the top-hat spacers using copper-lube, and then bolted the coil-over into the suspension...Result!!! No squeaks or creaking.
Thought it was worth sharing as I'd had the problem intermittently for a while. It is a relatively quick and easy 'service' to perform and might help others!
Nick
Be aware of the very limited 'lubricative' qualities of WD40; it may work to unseize something but it's little more than solvent (which is why it's recommended to remove sticky labels...!) with a drop of fish oil added; the effect soon evaporates and leaves the part unlubricated only for it to seize again. But to be fair, it was invented in the 1950s, and for a while there was nothing else available (apart from PlusGas!) Far better modern synthetic freeing agents are now available now which both creep- to free and remain- to lubricate.
Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
Twinkam said:
Be aware of the very limited 'lubricative' qualities of WD40; it may work to unseize something but it's little more than solvent (which is why it's recommended to remove sticky labels...!) with a drop of fish oil added; the effect soon evaporates and leaves the part unlubricated only for it to seize again. But to be fair, it was invented in the 1950s, and for a while there was nothing else available (apart from PlusGas!) Far better modern synthetic freeing agents are now available now which both creep- to free and remain- to lubricate.
Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
I'd agree, the WD was just to get the bearing shell 'mobile' again. I would say that the copper slip will do what it states on the tin - stop it seizing up again.Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
Nick
nawarne said:
Twinkam said:
Be aware of the very limited 'lubricative' qualities of WD40; it may work to unseize something but it's little more than solvent (which is why it's recommended to remove sticky labels...!) with a drop of fish oil added; the effect soon evaporates and leaves the part unlubricated only for it to seize again. But to be fair, it was invented in the 1950s, and for a while there was nothing else available (apart from PlusGas!) Far better modern synthetic freeing agents are now available now which both creep- to free and remain- to lubricate.
Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
I'd agree, the WD was just to get the bearing shell 'mobile' again. I would say that the copper slip will do what it states on the tin - stop it seizing up again.Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
Nick
Phil Tudhope said:
I'm curious as to why the check and refurbish didn't return pristine bushes. Just over a year doesn't sound like a long period before they seized after the refurb.
....Aaah! Phil, that's because I've racked up about 10,000 miles in the interim...I actually drive my car rather than push it out of the garage for a weekly polish. I was quite happy with the condition on return from GAZ.2015 I did a trip to Nurburg for the Old Timer Classic, then on to Munich to catch up with a an old work colleague, then back to France to meet the missus for a weeks stay at a chateau near Beaune. This year, we did L.Mans Classic with a diversion to Normandy to meet with some French folk.
When you add a few European trips in to the usual TVR club type meetings the miles rack up.
Nick
Twinkam said:
Be aware of the very limited 'lubricative' qualities of WD40; it may work to unseize something but it's little more than solvent (which is why it's recommended to remove sticky labels...!) with a drop of fish oil added; the effect soon evaporates and leaves the part unlubricated only for it to seize again. But to be fair, it was invented in the 1950s, and for a while there was nothing else available (apart from PlusGas!) Far better modern synthetic freeing agents are now available now which both creep- to free and remain- to lubricate.
Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
Which 'modern synthetic freeing agent' would you recommend? I'm still a WD40 luddite!Similarly, Copper-lube/'grease' is not a lubricant, it is an anti-seize compound. It is not intended to be be used between moving parts (that is the job of a grease) nor slathered everywhere just because it looks pretty; rather, it is an anti-seize assembly compound, to enable you to remove a fastener again in the future.
The one I use is a bulk 'trade' one so you wouldn't know the brand, but have a quick google or take a look in your local motor factors, I'm sure they all do an own brand. Just be sure it's a synthetic.
Motorcycle chain lube is a similar sort of thing, it's carried into position in solution with the solvent, which then evaporates leaving the goo in place. Try some between your fingertips and then compare it to some WD40...
Then there is ACF50, well known in motorcycle circles but seemingly not in the car world, it is rather expensive so I save it for special occasions
It was supposedly developed for the US Navy to protect fighters on carriers decks, hence its prime role is anti-corrosion but it has good creep and lube properties too. Great on exposed threads, rose joints, raw or polished aluminium, chrome AND... it smells nice... AND, best of all, it comes in TVR purple! 
Motorcycle chain lube is a similar sort of thing, it's carried into position in solution with the solvent, which then evaporates leaving the goo in place. Try some between your fingertips and then compare it to some WD40...
Then there is ACF50, well known in motorcycle circles but seemingly not in the car world, it is rather expensive so I save it for special occasions
It was supposedly developed for the US Navy to protect fighters on carriers decks, hence its prime role is anti-corrosion but it has good creep and lube properties too. Great on exposed threads, rose joints, raw or polished aluminium, chrome AND... it smells nice... AND, best of all, it comes in TVR purple! Forums | General TVR Stuff & Gossip | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff