Replacing dashboard switches
Discussion
Hi all,
I need to take my dashboard out to sort out a bulb which isn't working, and whilst it's apart I'm thinking of changing the horrible buttons/switches that strangely have no labels!
Pic as it sits at present:
Untitled by Daniel Yeates, on Flickr
I've been looking at these switches:
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/electrical-b...
Has anyone used these before? They're not cheap, as I'm looking at around £150 for all 6, but could make the dashboard look so much better.
Are the switches in the TVR anything special, or are they just the usual on/off switch and easily replaced?
Finally, does anyone know the diameter of the hole in the dashboard for these switches? Just so I can be sure these will fit. If they don't any other recommendations?
The dashboard in my Chimaera was soooo much better. Much more obvious what did what, labelled switches, and all the warning lights were labelled and not just an LED!
DSC_3317 by Daniel Yeates, on Flickr
Many thanks,
Dan
I need to take my dashboard out to sort out a bulb which isn't working, and whilst it's apart I'm thinking of changing the horrible buttons/switches that strangely have no labels!
Pic as it sits at present:
Untitled by Daniel Yeates, on FlickrI've been looking at these switches:
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/electrical-b...
Has anyone used these before? They're not cheap, as I'm looking at around £150 for all 6, but could make the dashboard look so much better.
Are the switches in the TVR anything special, or are they just the usual on/off switch and easily replaced?
Finally, does anyone know the diameter of the hole in the dashboard for these switches? Just so I can be sure these will fit. If they don't any other recommendations?
The dashboard in my Chimaera was soooo much better. Much more obvious what did what, labelled switches, and all the warning lights were labelled and not just an LED!
DSC_3317 by Daniel Yeates, on FlickrMany thanks,
Dan
Hi Dan
I've just mislaid the decal on my MIL warning light on my Chim. Its a little piece of clear plastic folm about 12mm dia that is translucent black with clear MIL on it.
I have no hope getting a replacement so I am embarking on a quest to make some myself.
Designing the decal in photoshop then print on an acetate sheet. Then cut it out a stick it in place. Also I will invert the image so the printing is on the inside of the acetate that way it will be protected as it will be on the inside of you see what I mean.
With a bit effort I could design and print decals for you to go on your current switches if you are interested ?
I've just mislaid the decal on my MIL warning light on my Chim. Its a little piece of clear plastic folm about 12mm dia that is translucent black with clear MIL on it.
I have no hope getting a replacement so I am embarking on a quest to make some myself.
Designing the decal in photoshop then print on an acetate sheet. Then cut it out a stick it in place. Also I will invert the image so the printing is on the inside of the acetate that way it will be protected as it will be on the inside of you see what I mean.
With a bit effort I could design and print decals for you to go on your current switches if you are interested ?
Hi Dan
I redesigned my Griff dash a few years ago.
I hated the original switches and there aren't a huge selection of replacements as they need to latch and carry some current.
My solution - which was a bit of work - was to build a latching circuit per function - side lights, full beam, hazards , fogs etc. that allowed me to use a momentary push button rather than a latching button,
This gave me a huge selection of sexy switches to choose from as the switch was only pulling in a relay that carried the current.
Also took the opportunity to get rid of the warning lights and put a row of LEDs between the speedo and rev counter.
Not a great pic but you get the idea:

I redesigned my Griff dash a few years ago.
I hated the original switches and there aren't a huge selection of replacements as they need to latch and carry some current.
My solution - which was a bit of work - was to build a latching circuit per function - side lights, full beam, hazards , fogs etc. that allowed me to use a momentary push button rather than a latching button,
This gave me a huge selection of sexy switches to choose from as the switch was only pulling in a relay that carried the current.
Also took the opportunity to get rid of the warning lights and put a row of LEDs between the speedo and rev counter.
Not a great pic but you get the idea:

andyy said:
Hi Dan
I redesigned my Griff dash a few years ago.
I hated the original switches and there aren't a huge selection of replacements as they need to latch and carry some current.
My solution - which was a bit of work - was to build a latching circuit per function - side lights, full beam, hazards , fogs etc. that allowed me to use a momentary push button rather than a latching button,
This gave me a huge selection of sexy switches to choose from as the switch was only pulling in a relay that carried the current.
Also took the opportunity to get rid of the warning lights and put a row of LEDs between the speedo and rev counter.
Not a great pic but you get the idea:

This is very good advice, you will also benefit from knowing that the switches will never fail due to high current going through them or the latching mechanism breakingI redesigned my Griff dash a few years ago.
I hated the original switches and there aren't a huge selection of replacements as they need to latch and carry some current.
My solution - which was a bit of work - was to build a latching circuit per function - side lights, full beam, hazards , fogs etc. that allowed me to use a momentary push button rather than a latching button,
This gave me a huge selection of sexy switches to choose from as the switch was only pulling in a relay that carried the current.
Also took the opportunity to get rid of the warning lights and put a row of LEDs between the speedo and rev counter.
Not a great pic but you get the idea:

andyy has done a proper good job
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