Am I being over cautious?

[texaxile]

I'm half way through an Impreza project, currently replacing suspension items for OEM.

I've decided to use genuine subaru bolts for the front suspension, as 2 of the fronts are Camber bolts and year specific, but the remaining 2 front are flange bolts (M13)

So, I've opted for 2 genuine Subaru front camber bolts (year and model specific) and 2 Subaru flange bolts all in at an eye watering £39.

The rears are also flange bolts M13 but come in at £40 for 4. That hurts a bit, question to the collective, can I use any M13 that meet the specs length and width?.

TIA and virtual singe malt to you all.

[hidetheelephants]

Good luck finding M13 fasteners of any kind off the shelf, definitely an oddball size. Are you sure they aren't a more common size?

[shirt]

What model / year?

The camber bolts have a lobe on the shank so those you will have to go with what is available.

The flange bolts are partially threaded no? Some have a stepped shank and they’ll likely come with lock nuts.

With that kind of thing I find that paying for the convenience rather than running all over town and not finding anything is a worthwhile time/money trade off. There’s also nothing worse than your suspension collapsing because you got it wrong to save a few quid.

Surprised they are m13 as the Japanese tend not to use 13 in anything as it is unlucky, which is why all the bolt heads take a 12 or 14mm spanner.

[E-bmw]

As above, if you zoom into the pic on this listing they are M14.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124844275347?_skw=subar...

[stevieturbo]

£10 per bolt when some have an adjustable cam, is hardly eye watering.

Maybe the project is a bit much for you ?

[shirt]

Actually OP. Go look at pro bolt or price up some close tolerance aerospace bolts. It will make yours look a bargain, and that is how man maths works.

Edited by shirt on Thursday 2nd October 18:12

[texaxile]

Ahhh, damn my infernally poor eyesight.

Yes, M14 not M13. Lucky I'm not rebuilding an engine then

I went with the original parts anyway, as someone said, it's not worth the faff in the long term, plus I know they'll fit 100%. and props to Import Car Parts for their patience and help. The car is on the year of switchover from one type of bolt to another, so a simple chassis # inquiry got me the right ones.

Also, @stevieturbo - It is too much for me, but I need something to keep me away from DIY chores at the weekend

[InitialDave]

shirt said:

Actually OP. Go look at pro bolt or price up some close tolerance aerospace bolts.

Incidentally, this is what I do for a living. The ones you can buy off the shelf to an AS standard or similar are the cheap stuff.

[InitialDave]

Pica-Pica said:

Check the property class as well as the size, that is, 8.8, 10.9, or 12.9

I think you may be replying to the wrong person.

[Pica-Pica]

InitialDave said:

Pica-Pica said:

Check the property class as well as the size, that is, 8.8, 10.9, or 12.9

I think you may be replying to the wrong person.

It was for any and everyone.

[InitialDave]

Pica-Pica said:

It was for any and everyone.

Fair.

[texaxile]

InitialDave said:

shirt said:

Actually OP. Go look at pro bolt or price up some close tolerance aerospace bolts.

Incidentally, this is what I do for a living. The ones you can buy off the shelf to an AS standard or similar are the cheap stuff.

I did just that. When it's POA for a bolt, I know I'm well out of my depth. I'll give aircraft restoration a miss, and seeing as I can't tell the difference between M13 and M14, that's probably a good idea anyway.

While I'm here, although it's non suspension related, I've put the new bolts in dry and clean to the recon hubs. It's been suggested elsewhere to add anti seize to the threads but I've not done that, working on the premise that factory torque settings are done dry.

However, now they're torqued up I may add a dab of grease to the exposed outer threads as they'll be subject to road dirt etc, and given the nightmares I'm still having when I removed them, again, I'd like to ask is there any harm in doing so or any product which might be suitable?.

TIA.

[hidetheelephants]

Spray wax like dinitrol or dynax would be the easiest, grease will tend to wash off too easily.

[InitialDave]

texaxile said:

While I'm here, although it's non suspension related, I've put the new bolts in dry and clean to the recon hubs. It's been suggested elsewhere to add anti seize to the threads but I've not done that, working on the premise that factory torque settings are done dry.

However, now they're torqued up I may add a dab of grease to the exposed outer threads as they'll be subject to road dirt etc, and given the nightmares I'm still having when I removed them, again, I'd like to ask is there any harm in doing so or any product which might be suitable?.

TIA.

Yes, if not told otherwise, I generally assume thread torque specs are done clean and dry.

It is still viable to use an anti-seize, but need to ensure the torque is adjusted to compensate for the lubrication on the thread - if it's easier to turn the fastener, you're putting more tension in it for a given tightening torque.

Also similar for using a "stronger" bolt - very likely you need a different tightening torque to account for its different properties, so just putting in a "better" bolt alone is only half the job, plus if you increase clamping force, there may be knock-on effects with other parts of the assembly.

To protect any exposed threads, either something like ACF50 or any anti-corrosion wax is probably a good shout. You can also buy plastic covers in most common sizes to go over nuts. Doing something like this after already assembled and torqued up isnt going to hurt anything, though as you mention hub bolts, confirm that brake heat isnt going to make it drip oily contamination right onto your brakes.

[E-bmw]

Personally if it were me I would put A/S grease on the threads to prevent the bolt seizing in the hub assuming that was the original problem.