Jacking Up Front and Back
Discussion
Jacks are for lifting the car and then allowing you to put stands under the car to support it whilst you work on it. Jacks have a nasty habit of dropping the car on your toes at the most inopportune time, so yes, jack up the side but please put some solid supports under before you leave it up in the air.
Rushjob said:
Jacks are for lifting the car and then allowing you to put stands under the car to support it whilst you work on it. Jacks have a nasty habit of dropping the car on your toes at the most inopportune time, so yes, jack up the side but please put some solid supports under before you leave it up in the air.
Absolutely. I've seen an OEM scissor jack fail and the car landed on someones chest. Axles stands are a must. I also position the wheels under the sills as soon as they are off as well and I have some old short pieces of sleeper I keep in the corner of the garage which I stack in the right places. Stating the obvious, but only lift it on solid flat ground. Not sure why I'm feeling like Mr H&S today 
Edit to answer your actual question. I've frequently lifted one side with no issues. Yes to in gear and handbrake on.
I've always loosened and torqued up wheels on the ground to avoid the jiggling when the car is lifted.
Edited by breamster on Friday 2nd January 11:49
E-bmw said:
To add to the above, on a typical FWD car you can frequently get all of one side in the air using just the front jacking point.
Yes, if one jack won't lift high enough to clear both wheels an axle stand helps sometimes if placed to the rear end of the sill (or other suitably strong point), lower the jack slightly allowing the axle stand to take some weight, car levels up both wheels clear and Roberts your mums bruv.I really don't like scissor jacks, ok for the odd emergency requiring one wheel off the ground with the vehicle firmly chocked plus park brake applied.
A good quality trolley jack (not a cheap toy with a egg-cup) is one of the best investments one can make.
Smint said:
E-bmw said:
To add to the above, on a typical FWD car you can frequently get all of one side in the air using just the front jacking point.
Yes, if one jack won't lift high enough to clear both wheels an axle stand helps sometimes if placed to the rear end of the sill (or other suitably strong point), lower the jack slightly allowing the axle stand to take some weight, car levels up both wheels clear and Roberts your mums bruv.irc said:
Assuming I had two suitable jacks and wanted to swap wheels front and rear to even out wear. Is there any reason not to leave car in gear, handbrake on, chock both offside wheels, then use both front and back jack points to raise both nearside wheels and swap tyres?
I have done this in the past, but I try not to now. Didn't seem safe to me. So now I use a spare wheel to do this job one at a time. Takes longer for sure.Note that the handbraked axle/end will still be locked, but the driven axle/end won't be because the diff will allow the car to roll, even if it's in gear, and the wheel in the air will turn the opposite way. Excluding LSDs.
Scissor jacks are too easily knocked out, a little tilt and they fall over.
Not directly related, but don't be tempted to use this 2-jack method on both fronts or both rears. Even if the handbrake is firmly on at the other end, the car can twist and both jacks will tilt over.
irc said:
Assuming I had two suitable jacks and wanted to swap wheels front and rear to even out wear. Is there any reason not to leave car in gear, handbrake on, chock both offside wheels, then use both front and back jack points to raise both nearside wheels and swap tyres?
Nothing at all wrong doing one side at a time like that. Unless you're on a hill, but that'd be silly.As some say, some cars even one decent jack will lift the entire side up. And if going down the safety route, yea axle stands and all that. And never do what some seem to and sit with their legs under the car when working at a corner.
M4cruiser said:
I have done this in the past, but I try not to now. Didn't seem safe to me. So now I use a spare wheel to do this job one at a time. Takes longer for sure.
Note that the handbraked axle/end will still be locked, but the driven axle/end won't be because the diff will allow the car to roll, even if it's in gear, and the wheel in the air will turn the opposite way. Excluding LSDs.
Scissor jacks are too easily knocked out, a little tilt and they fall over.
Not directly related, but don't be tempted to use this 2-jack method on both fronts or both rears. Even if the handbrake is firmly on at the other end, the car can twist and both jacks will tilt over.
Seems a bit overkill? Note that the handbraked axle/end will still be locked, but the driven axle/end won't be because the diff will allow the car to roll, even if it's in gear, and the wheel in the air will turn the opposite way. Excluding LSDs.
Scissor jacks are too easily knocked out, a little tilt and they fall over.
Not directly related, but don't be tempted to use this 2-jack method on both fronts or both rears. Even if the handbrake is firmly on at the other end, the car can twist and both jacks will tilt over.
I mean yes, if the car is on a slope then... well... just don't, even lifting one corner on a slope, even slight is probably best avoided but double jacks to lift one side or a single trolley jack to lift the front or rear (assuming there's a suitable central point on the car) then crack on. Just chock the wheels that will be left in contact with with the ground and get stands or at the absolute minimum, one of the wheels under it before you put any part of your body under the car.
I get more of the fear watching people put a car on four stands, one corner at a time. That can cause the car to move and push the stand over. I tend to list the front or rear equally, stand in at either side then drop it down then do the opposite end in a similar manner. That way it keeps the car level and not sat at an angle with one stand precariously holding one corner up.
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