Bilt Hamber - Which one?

[Mark_Cut]

Due to do the first anti corrosion application on to a mostly very clean Kia Sportage.

I will be taking all the plastics off, thorough wash and then a blast with the leaf blower before leaving it a few hours to drip dry.

Which Bilt Hamber product do people suggest?

I need to do all cavities, and anything underneath. Don't want to redo it annually, but if it's a must then fair enough. Probably will opt for aerosol. Can a yond advise how far each one of their cans go?

Thanks!

[_Rodders_]

S50 for the cavities and then either UC or UB for the underside.

If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's opaque so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.

Won't need doing annually. Every 3 years would fine or if it's not a keep forever car then 1 good application will probably suffice.

[Sebring440]

_Rodders_ said:

If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's opaque so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.

_Rodders_ said:

If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's transparent so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.

Fixed that for you.

[Mark_Cut]

Thanks all.

How many cans would you suggest? All cavities and all underside?

[_Rodders_]

Sebring440 said:

_Rodders_ said:

If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's opaque so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.

_Rodders_ said:

If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's transparent so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.

Fixed that for you.

Thanks.

[_Rodders_]

Mark_Cut said:

Thanks all.

How many cans would you suggest? All cavities and all underside?

1 S50 and 3 UC is probably enough. 2 and 4 respectively would be more than enough to do everything and then touch up any bits you miss or for spot applications if you see any corrosion down the line.

Edited by _Rodders_ on Monday 10th August 10:05

[Mark_Cut]

Any experience of pressure sprayer application? It's loads more cost effective that way...

[_Rodders_]

Mark_Cut said:

Any experience of pressure sprayer application? It's loads more cost effective that way...

I've only ever used the aerosols.

[Clad-Hach]

If you have a compressor I can highly recommend one of these type of applicators, you can precisely apply the coating without making a mess and its very controllable...just make sure its thinned down enough to spray.

The right angled one produces a fan shaped spray and little bullet one does 360deg for all the internal and hard to reach places.

[Mark_Cut]

What do you thin it with?

[Clad-Hach]

I used Waxoyl and used white spirit to thin it a bit and a bucket of hot water to warm it up.

What the solvent is in Bilt Hamber products are I can't say, dropping them a line might be the way to go, it gets very good reviews though.

[droopsnoot]

Remember that the solvent you use to thin it is still a solvent. I once had a subframe blasted, then painted, then got some Waxoyl and thinned it down with white spirit to spray inside. Of course, the bits of it that came out through the various drain holes affected the lovely black paint finish on the outside because of the solvent. It may not be an issue on modern car paint, but it's worth checking.

As above, another way to make it thin enough to spray is to stand the tin in a bowl of warm water before you spray it.

[swisstoni]

Clad-Hach said:

I used Waxoyl and used white spirit to thin it a bit and a bucket of hot water to warm it up.

What the solvent is in Bilt Hamber products are I can't say, dropping them a line might be the way to go, it gets very good reviews though.

I used exactly the same method years ago. I found the clear Waxoyl to be brilliant stuff.

[Mark_Cut]

All plastics removed and generously applied.

4 cans of clear used
1.5 cans of the dark wax used

Probably applied unevenly, appears to be an annual job sadly, unless it dries much harder.

Hopefully it stops the salt ruining the car over winter.

[Belle427]

I use aerosols too as no matter how hard I tried I could not get one of those injection guns to work properly even with thinning.
Probably beneficial to top it up every year really which is a pita, think you could stretch it out to every other as it does dry harder in my experience.
Can't see a need to remove plastics again with a top up so that may make it easier.

[trevalvole]

Mark_Cut said:

Probably applied unevenly, appears to be an annual job sadly, unless it dries much harder.

You may find that it firms up as the weather cools.

[Simpo Two]

swisstoni said:

I found the clear Waxoyl to be brilliant stuff.

It did a good job on my TVR. Why doesn't anyone mention Waxoyl any more?

[Mark_Cut]

To be honest, after applying it, once this treatment is done with and cleaned off, I may well waxoyl it next time. Provided I have a compressor and dont use areosol.

[Mark_Cut]

Its due to about tip down, so plastic rebuild will need to be tomorrow now.

I assume itll be ok stationary in the rain after just less than 24hrs?

[Belle427]

Simpo Two said:

swisstoni said:

I found the clear Waxoyl to be brilliant stuff.

It did a good job on my TVR. Why doesn't anyone mention Waxoyl any more?

Think it's because it was known to dry and crack which isn't great for an underbody coating.
Not sure if the formula changed with newer regs.