Newbie Speed Six queries (Images included)
Discussion
Hi,
Would appreciate any thoughts and input on images below, new to me Cerbera speed six..
Trying to go over it as much as possible and indentify any fundemental issues..
It had a squeeky belt on startup, that tbh did disapear after a minute or so..
Went to potentially tighten it up, felt tight but noticed this crack..
Appears to be auxillary bearing housing / probably new bearing aswell..
If the bolts come out should be straight forward enough??
This looks like fuel hose return maybe? but was dangling loose and really didn't seem to sit tight anywhere? (Just behind the alternator) - Should this be clipped in, and tight? (hope its not fuel hose return!)
Unknown plug loose, couldn't see a home for it - Looked like potentially around oil pressure sensor i'd guess..
Incoming fuel hose, directy above AC belt, which has a nick in anyway - Doesn't look the most sensible of routings..
No photoo, but should there be an front inner wheel arch? - Seems nuts that steering UJ and rear of pedals are exposed (IMO)
Any input, thoughts or comments much appreicated!
Would appreciate any thoughts and input on images below, new to me Cerbera speed six..
Trying to go over it as much as possible and indentify any fundemental issues..
It had a squeeky belt on startup, that tbh did disapear after a minute or so..
Went to potentially tighten it up, felt tight but noticed this crack..
Appears to be auxillary bearing housing / probably new bearing aswell..
If the bolts come out should be straight forward enough??
This looks like fuel hose return maybe? but was dangling loose and really didn't seem to sit tight anywhere? (Just behind the alternator) - Should this be clipped in, and tight? (hope its not fuel hose return!)
Unknown plug loose, couldn't see a home for it - Looked like potentially around oil pressure sensor i'd guess..
Incoming fuel hose, directy above AC belt, which has a nick in anyway - Doesn't look the most sensible of routings..
No photoo, but should there be an front inner wheel arch? - Seems nuts that steering UJ and rear of pedals are exposed (IMO)
Any input, thoughts or comments much appreicated!
Ok, so I've done the bearing housing/power steering pump belt on my Tuscan, same set-up.
Only reason I can see for the housing being split is if the alternator belt was overtight, looks like the bearing is being pulled out of the housing. Does the shaft run true? Maybe the squealing is the bearing under stress...
The problem tends to be, and it was the case with mine, is that the 2 shoulder bolts holding the bearing housing to the engine block corrode to the alloy housing and you will likely round the allen bolt socket before the bolts will ever move, so I wouldn’t even try, there is also a risk of snapping it in the block.
So, I removed the alternator and the moved the power steering pump out of the way (cut the belt) and attacked the housing around each bolt with various grinders/power saws/chisels from above and through the wheel arch for the lower bolt until the housing was removed from around the bolts. Both bolts then unscrewed from the engine block without issue.
The alternator/power steering belts are the same and the PIX one you have for the alternator are about £10 off ebay.
The only place to get the housing from is Motaclan but the bearing is standard from SKF etc.
Not a nice job to tackle but obviously needs doing and the power steering belt is probably the factory one, mine was.
I used stainless shoulder bolts for the new housing (I have a couple spare if you want them) and replaced the tensioners for the alternator and power steering pump with rose jointed left/right threaded bars that make re-tensioning a doddle, available as a kit on ebay.
The fuel flow and return pipes are in this locality, so if the routes look dodgy use common sense to route them away from moving parts and tie them down.
That 4pin loose plug is for a stepper motor and not used on my Tuscan, so probably not required for the Cerbera either.
Any other questions please ask.
Only reason I can see for the housing being split is if the alternator belt was overtight, looks like the bearing is being pulled out of the housing. Does the shaft run true? Maybe the squealing is the bearing under stress...
The problem tends to be, and it was the case with mine, is that the 2 shoulder bolts holding the bearing housing to the engine block corrode to the alloy housing and you will likely round the allen bolt socket before the bolts will ever move, so I wouldn’t even try, there is also a risk of snapping it in the block.
So, I removed the alternator and the moved the power steering pump out of the way (cut the belt) and attacked the housing around each bolt with various grinders/power saws/chisels from above and through the wheel arch for the lower bolt until the housing was removed from around the bolts. Both bolts then unscrewed from the engine block without issue.
The alternator/power steering belts are the same and the PIX one you have for the alternator are about £10 off ebay.
The only place to get the housing from is Motaclan but the bearing is standard from SKF etc.
Not a nice job to tackle but obviously needs doing and the power steering belt is probably the factory one, mine was.
I used stainless shoulder bolts for the new housing (I have a couple spare if you want them) and replaced the tensioners for the alternator and power steering pump with rose jointed left/right threaded bars that make re-tensioning a doddle, available as a kit on ebay.
The fuel flow and return pipes are in this locality, so if the routes look dodgy use common sense to route them away from moving parts and tie them down.
That 4pin loose plug is for a stepper motor and not used on my Tuscan, so probably not required for the Cerbera either.
Any other questions please ask.
Thanks for the input!
I'm well on the way, took a brave pill and got stuck in and pretty much exactly as you described...
I've hacked well away at the bracket, the bolt is starting to be exposed and ideally I'd like to cut a slice in the bolt, and hammer it round, or potentially cut the hole bracket off and leave the bolt in place (and remove with mole grips etc..) . Not sure yet, but the bracket is 'loose' but the bolt (rounded instantly) doesn't want to move.
The PS pump, I haven't removed as I couldn't obviously see how its tensioned, and it looked like i'd need to take the pulley off to loosen the bolts for the PS unit? - If the belt was out of the way it would be much easier TBH (Thinking whilst typing, it may aswell put a new belt on it so just cut if off anyway)
Looking at your comment about the alternator threaded bars, the alternator only had 1 bolt it in along with the tensioner so I would envisage that wasn't doing any good what so ever for the alignment
I'm well on the way, took a brave pill and got stuck in and pretty much exactly as you described...
I've hacked well away at the bracket, the bolt is starting to be exposed and ideally I'd like to cut a slice in the bolt, and hammer it round, or potentially cut the hole bracket off and leave the bolt in place (and remove with mole grips etc..) . Not sure yet, but the bracket is 'loose' but the bolt (rounded instantly) doesn't want to move.
The PS pump, I haven't removed as I couldn't obviously see how its tensioned, and it looked like i'd need to take the pulley off to loosen the bolts for the PS unit? - If the belt was out of the way it would be much easier TBH (Thinking whilst typing, it may aswell put a new belt on it so just cut if off anyway)
Looking at your comment about the alternator threaded bars, the alternator only had 1 bolt it in along with the tensioner so I would envisage that wasn't doing any good what so ever for the alignment
Arrh well done, you're almost there.
Once the head and body of the bolts are exposed some sharp taps to the bolt and penetrating oil should be enough, but all the bashing you'll do to get to that stage might be enough to free the bolt anyway. I used mole grips like you suggested.
Make a note of the order and orientation of everything as you slide them off the shaft.
The tensioner for the ps pump is underneath, you need to remove the undertray to access it. The pump pulley may need to come off for better access to the tensioner/pump mounting bolts. The pulley is held on by 3 cap screws, easier to unbolt when the pump belt is in tension.
Once the head and body of the bolts are exposed some sharp taps to the bolt and penetrating oil should be enough, but all the bashing you'll do to get to that stage might be enough to free the bolt anyway. I used mole grips like you suggested.
Make a note of the order and orientation of everything as you slide them off the shaft.
The tensioner for the ps pump is underneath, you need to remove the undertray to access it. The pump pulley may need to come off for better access to the tensioner/pump mounting bolts. The pulley is held on by 3 cap screws, easier to unbolt when the pump belt is in tension.
Interesting.
I had/ have a similar squeak on start up that fades after 5-10 seconds. My assumption was the bearing. Yours looks like is was spinning the outer race in the bearing housing causing heat and your crack. I wonder if the Power steering pump pully wheel can get sandwiched up against the outer race of the bearing and cause it to spin. I know there is a bit of space in there between the pully and bearing. Strangely I tightened up my alternator belt which stopped the squeaking even though i had tested it running with out the alternator belt to no avail. So although I got rid of the squeak Im still not sure what exactly was going on. Is there a washer between the PAS pully wheel and the shaft bearing?
I had/ have a similar squeak on start up that fades after 5-10 seconds. My assumption was the bearing. Yours looks like is was spinning the outer race in the bearing housing causing heat and your crack. I wonder if the Power steering pump pully wheel can get sandwiched up against the outer race of the bearing and cause it to spin. I know there is a bit of space in there between the pully and bearing. Strangely I tightened up my alternator belt which stopped the squeaking even though i had tested it running with out the alternator belt to no avail. So although I got rid of the squeak Im still not sure what exactly was going on. Is there a washer between the PAS pully wheel and the shaft bearing?
So back from holiday and cracking on with this t
t of a job.
I really don't think i've ttted this up, but I'm fairly 95% confident that the remains of the bearing and the pulley for the P/S will slide off on a wood ruff key again? - Really bloomin hope so! 
I presume get heat on the shaft and lots of WD40 and gently tap at it?
I've got most of the of the housing off, still the bottom half holding on for dear life now. The bolt is loose, but firmly connected to the remains of the housing FFS. Can't get Mr angle grinder in there, so I think it will be attacking the bolt with the multi-tool to make a slot and try and twist the bolt out naturally..
t of a job.I really don't think i've t
tted this up, but I'm fairly 95% confident that the remains of the bearing and the pulley for the P/S will slide off on a wood ruff key again? - Really bloomin hope so! I presume get heat on the shaft and lots of WD40 and gently tap at it?
I've got most of the of the housing off, still the bottom half holding on for dear life now. The bolt is loose, but firmly connected to the remains of the housing FFS. Can't get Mr angle grinder in there, so I think it will be attacking the bolt with the multi-tool to make a slot and try and twist the bolt out naturally..
I had to use heat (careful blowtorch) on my bolts but they came loose. Looks like heat will be your friend in this situation too.
The stuck bearing may need heat. You can try an induction heater to keep the heat local if you don't want to use a blowtorch. I found this type of tool very useful for stuck suspension bolts.
The stuck bearing may need heat. You can try an induction heater to keep the heat local if you don't want to use a blowtorch. I found this type of tool very useful for stuck suspension bolts.
Well that was a ball ache. Proably about a full day in total hours flipping about trying to get this thing off.
Don't believe the bearing carrier was as shagged as photo suggests, just where i've hacked it with chisel etc..
Also, ammusing the threads are absolutely perfect.. Simply that the bolt had seized to the carrier
To get the remaining bearing off... I presume just heat (be it blow or induction) and gently tap to the side? - Potentially fork splitter with soft mallet maybe but not sure -
wouldn't have thought a bearing pulley would work?
Don't believe the bearing carrier was as shagged as photo suggests, just where i've hacked it with chisel etc..
Also, ammusing the threads are absolutely perfect.. Simply that the bolt had seized to the carrier
To get the remaining bearing off... I presume just heat (be it blow or induction) and gently tap to the side? - Potentially fork splitter with soft mallet maybe but not sure -
wouldn't have thought a bearing pulley would work?Message Board | Speed Six Engine | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff