1/72 Model Builds
Discussion
The latest couple off the line.
Airfix 1/72 Mosquito NF.XIX at D-Day, June 1944
FROG Hawker Typhoon 1B - in the colours of Roland Beamont when
Commanding Officer of 609 Squadron in 1943.
The Airfix kit was originally released back in 1972 and the FROG in 1975 (one of their last before going bust). Both require a bit of extra work to make them presentable but they are pretty accurate in outline.
Airfix 1/72 Mosquito NF.XIX at D-Day, June 1944
FROG Hawker Typhoon 1B - in the colours of Roland Beamont when
Commanding Officer of 609 Squadron in 1943.
The Airfix kit was originally released back in 1972 and the FROG in 1975 (one of their last before going bust). Both require a bit of extra work to make them presentable but they are pretty accurate in outline.
I presume you mean the base under the Typhoon?
It's a cheap picture frame from Asda (it's OK, I sneaked in without anyone noticing - I hope). The glass was removed (now used as a cutting tile) and the card backboard was covered in thin PVA glue onto which was sprinkled various shades and textures of model railway scenic grasses and earths.
It's a cheap picture frame from Asda (it's OK, I sneaked in without anyone noticing - I hope). The glass was removed (now used as a cutting tile) and the card backboard was covered in thin PVA glue onto which was sprinkled various shades and textures of model railway scenic grasses and earths.
Eric Mc said:
It took me a few goes to get it the way I liked it. Anyone any tips on reproducing concrete hard standings?
Plasterboard?Unglazed tile (or the back of a tile?).
You could draw pencil lines to represent concrete joins, and put some 'grass' along them along with some oil stains.
Never tried either, but I reckon plasterboard might be about the right colour.
Eric Mc said:
It took me a few goes to get it the way I liked it. Anyone any tips on reproducing concrete hard standings?
These are really good print yourself files (and not badly priced either). There's a whole range of surfaces.http://www.scalescenes.com/scratchbuilders-yard
It was a bit crude - I have to admit.
I scratchbuilt a new pilot's seat, put the crash structure behind the headrest and scratchbuilt an instrument panel and gun sight. I also cumpletely sanded away the very rough attempt by the FROG mould maker to represent the fabric covered rudder. The "grain" was far too coarse. It made the rudder look like it was made from wicker. I completely removed all that and replaced the rudder ribbing with thin strips of Tamiya tape.
Finally, on the construction front, I cut out the landing lights, boxed them in, placed inside each light housing a representation of the landing light lens and glazed the light housing using Selotape.
On the decal front, I made up the markings for Roland Beamont's Typhoon from various sources - including printing off the serial using my computer.The kit comes with markings for another 609 squadron plane (PR-D) but I really wanted to do Bea's more famous PR-G.
I scratchbuilt a new pilot's seat, put the crash structure behind the headrest and scratchbuilt an instrument panel and gun sight. I also cumpletely sanded away the very rough attempt by the FROG mould maker to represent the fabric covered rudder. The "grain" was far too coarse. It made the rudder look like it was made from wicker. I completely removed all that and replaced the rudder ribbing with thin strips of Tamiya tape.
Finally, on the construction front, I cut out the landing lights, boxed them in, placed inside each light housing a representation of the landing light lens and glazed the light housing using Selotape.
On the decal front, I made up the markings for Roland Beamont's Typhoon from various sources - including printing off the serial using my computer.The kit comes with markings for another 609 squadron plane (PR-D) but I really wanted to do Bea's more famous PR-G.
Concrete hard standings as on airfields
Airbrush several similar "stone" colours Eric to give a generic (pun unintentional) concretey shade. Some medium grey or very light colours too for contrast
Variations all over in shade and hue and draw straight lines to represent the joints between "slabs" these ought to be in black to represent the poured bitumen in them and should also be irregular in shape and line (mostly poured by two blokes with buckets )
The black lines should be blobby and even at different heights for realism's sake
Model railway guys seem to have lots of nice ground stuff to play with, so grass edging can be performed with a grass papery-cloth stuff
I was going to show the Tornado dio picture again but
when I tried to chose a picture my pooter explode into black screen re-boot mode
yuk
Airbrush several similar "stone" colours Eric to give a generic (pun unintentional) concretey shade. Some medium grey or very light colours too for contrast
Variations all over in shade and hue and draw straight lines to represent the joints between "slabs" these ought to be in black to represent the poured bitumen in them and should also be irregular in shape and line (mostly poured by two blokes with buckets )
The black lines should be blobby and even at different heights for realism's sake
Model railway guys seem to have lots of nice ground stuff to play with, so grass edging can be performed with a grass papery-cloth stuff
I was going to show the Tornado dio picture again but
when I tried to chose a picture my pooter explode into black screen re-boot mode
yuk
Frog used to love that coarse hessian look for fabric covered surfaces
my own pet hate with them though (Airfix weren't much better too often, either) was the ridiculous round cross section of their trailing edges
scaled up the t.e of the Tiffie would be about a twelve inch diameter radius (or more)*
Both the Mossie and the Typhoon have been made to look great Eric, well made mate
I was to become friends with AML (Mac) Kennaugh when I was in IPMS in Brum and always intended to model his Tempest, while he was alive. Always regret never actually doing it though.
- [Even Airfix's Vulcan came out with a gurt thick trailing edge, another scale 12" flat panel it'ld be]
perdu said:
Concrete hard standings as on airfields
Airbrush several similar "stone" colours Eric to give a generic (pun unintentional) concretey shade. Some medium grey or very light colours too for contrast
Variations all over in shade and hue and draw straight lines to represent the joints between "slabs" these ought to be in black to represent the poured bitumen in them and should also be irregular in shape and line (mostly poured by two blokes with buckets )
The black lines should be blobby and even at different heights for realism's sake
Model railway guys seem to have lots of nice ground stuff to play with, so grass edging can be performed with a grass papery-cloth stuff
I was going to show the Tornado dio picture again but
when I tried to chose a picture my pooter explode into black screen re-boot mode
yuk
Thanks for the tips - even if your computer nearly expired in the process Airbrush several similar "stone" colours Eric to give a generic (pun unintentional) concretey shade. Some medium grey or very light colours too for contrast
Variations all over in shade and hue and draw straight lines to represent the joints between "slabs" these ought to be in black to represent the poured bitumen in them and should also be irregular in shape and line (mostly poured by two blokes with buckets )
The black lines should be blobby and even at different heights for realism's sake
Model railway guys seem to have lots of nice ground stuff to play with, so grass edging can be performed with a grass papery-cloth stuff
I was going to show the Tornado dio picture again but
when I tried to chose a picture my pooter explode into black screen re-boot mode
yuk
We used to use Sandtex Matt for slot car tracks, but it would probably be too coarse for 1/72nd models.
Lovely looking models Eric. Re your mention of acrylics being much improved, I tried them many years ago and didn't take to them at all. Could I ask what you use as a base coat?
Alan
Lovely looking models Eric. Re your mention of acrylics being much improved, I tried them many years ago and didn't take to them at all. Could I ask what you use as a base coat?
Alan
Eric Mc said:
Anyone any tips on reproducing concrete hard standings?
Well how about using the same ingredients as the real thing? i.e. get a sheet of very fine sandpaper then dust it with cement dust then dampen it and finally seal it by spraying it with pva glue (or something)... You could experiment by letting the grit show through the cement to represent the stones you see in the surface of the concrete slabs. Not actually done this of course, it's just an idea CanAm said:
We used to use Sandtex Matt for slot car tracks, but it would probably be too coarse for 1/72nd models.
Lovely looking models Eric. Re your mention of acrylics being much improved, I tried them many years ago and didn't take to them at all. Could I ask what you use as a base coat?
Alan
I use Halfords aerosol spray acrylics - usually grey or white plastic primer - depending on what the final colour scheme is going to be.Lovely looking models Eric. Re your mention of acrylics being much improved, I tried them many years ago and didn't take to them at all. Could I ask what you use as a base coat?
Alan
RichB said:
Eric Mc said:
Anyone any tips on reproducing concrete hard standings?
Well how about using the same ingredients as the real thing? i.e. get a sheet of very fine sandpaper then dust it with cement dust then dampen it and finally seal it by spraying it with pva glue (or something)... You could experiment by letting the grit show through the cement to represent the stones you see in the surface of the concrete slabs. Not actually done this of course, it's just an idea Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff