Avoiding masking lines when painting.
Discussion
Hi,
I'm hoping that someone with far more experience than me can help.
I've restored a couple of 1950's tin ride on cars for my son. One I painted silver, one BRG - all straight forward. I'd now like to try something different with the 3rd one. Along the lines of Ford tiger stripes, white base with light blue/dark blue stripes. Or even Gordini stripes. I've already primered and applied white top coat.
Now comes the question, how do I avoid leaving masking lines when spraying the stripes? Is there a certain type of tape to use, feather the edges, or something else?
Cheers.
I'm hoping that someone with far more experience than me can help.
I've restored a couple of 1950's tin ride on cars for my son. One I painted silver, one BRG - all straight forward. I'd now like to try something different with the 3rd one. Along the lines of Ford tiger stripes, white base with light blue/dark blue stripes. Or even Gordini stripes. I've already primered and applied white top coat.
Now comes the question, how do I avoid leaving masking lines when spraying the stripes? Is there a certain type of tape to use, feather the edges, or something else?
Cheers.
Tamiya tape is my masking tape of choice, it performs exactly as I require without issue. The 1:1 world version is called Shurtape CP-60.
Once you have masked up, spray a very light coat over the the tape to seal the edge. Then you can build up the coats in the normal manner. When you want to remove the tape, I find that removing when the paint is still wet works for me others advise differently. My advice is to test your technique on a scrap piece if material.
Once you have masked up, spray a very light coat over the the tape to seal the edge. Then you can build up the coats in the normal manner. When you want to remove the tape, I find that removing when the paint is still wet works for me others advise differently. My advice is to test your technique on a scrap piece if material.
I've used Montex masks for a large scale aircraft model.
The technique was to leave the entire logo covered, remove one bit of the mask and spray and let it cure, then *replace* the bit of masking you'd just done and remove the next bit, etc etc. That way there's no edge within the logo or marking.
You could apply this to an entire scheme I guess.
The technique was to leave the entire logo covered, remove one bit of the mask and spray and let it cure, then *replace* the bit of masking you'd just done and remove the next bit, etc etc. That way there's no edge within the logo or marking.
You could apply this to an entire scheme I guess.
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