Transfers, what am i doing wrong???
Transfers, what am i doing wrong???
Author
Discussion

MattyTPhotos

Original Poster:

69 posts

168 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
quotequote all
okay i cannoot seem to get this bloody transfers to stay on the model, the way i'm doing it is, small tub of warm water, leave them in till they slide off, place on the model, get all lined up using a damp cotton bud, then dab the excess water away with a clean cotton bud, after a while they just seem to fall off or float off when i move the model, any suggestions on what i can do, i just tried to varnish the tank and its gone majorily wrong frown lol any ideas??

cheers
Matt

1a35

867 posts

232 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
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Always apply the transfers to a gloss surface - add a clear matt coat afterwards if necessary.
If the surface you are applying the transfer to is not smooth, then a softening fluid such as humbrol decalfix may help.

Eric Mc

124,933 posts

289 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
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Are you letting them float off the backing paper whilst still in the water?

perdu

4,885 posts

223 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
quotequote all
I was gonna say that smile (Sorry Eric, not just what you said)

Don't leave them under water 'til they lift away because some of the slightly milky, gooey fluid that sits on the surface of the transfer when you have soaked it is actually intended to help it stick to the surface.

Letting too much of that flow away takes away some of the "sticktion" necessary to help them stay in place.

When the piece begins to move take it away to the model.

Dabbing the stuck down transfer to help it stick is best done with a clean linen handkerchief (I wish I still had linen hankies!) but nowadays I use a flat pad of kitchen tissue roll gently. Don't use an old flannelette sheet, far too many loose fibres around

Do overspray with matt varnish to seal the job in.

Eric Mc

124,933 posts

289 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
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I only dip the transfer into the water for a maximum of about 20 seconds - usually less.

Zaxxon

4,057 posts

184 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
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I apply some Klear just before putting the transfer on, once weathered I then coat the whole model in klear.

Hackney

7,384 posts

232 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
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Damn, thought this was Kenny Dalglish's first post.

Eric Mc

124,933 posts

289 months

Sunday 15th April 2012
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Nice to see them being called "transfers" though. I still find the word "decals" a bit weird.

perdu

4,885 posts

223 months

Monday 16th April 2012
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Eric Mc said:
Nice to see them being called "transfers" though. I still find the word "decals" a bit weird.
Old school Eric, like myself.

When I left school I became an apprentice printer at a Birmingham Transfer Printers, we didn't call them decals there either.

Butcher's Transfers - Tell The World Who Made It was our trademark.

No blinking decalcomanies, that's for Johnnie Foreigner smile

Red Firecracker

5,331 posts

251 months

Monday 16th April 2012
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As has been mentioned above, a gloss or at least super smooth, finish is the ideal for the transfers to stick. There are also chemical agents that can help such as Micro-Sol and Micro-Set, but depending on the surface and the quality of the transfers they shouldn't be a necessity.

If the transfers are good quality screen printed examples, you'd be surprised at the liberties you can take with them before they start to complain.

Can I go back to 'decal' now?

ScoobyDood

2,174 posts

183 months

Monday 16th April 2012
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Hackney said:
Damn, thought this was Kenny Dalglish's first post.
laugh

dr_gn

16,774 posts

208 months

Monday 16th April 2012
quotequote all
MattyTPhotos said:
okay i cannoot seem to get this bloody transfers to stay on the model, the way i'm doing it is, small tub of warm water, leave them in till they slide off, place on the model, get all lined up using a damp cotton bud, then dab the excess water away with a clean cotton bud, after a while they just seem to fall off or float off when i move the model, any suggestions on what i can do, i just tried to varnish the tank and its gone majorily wrong frown lol any ideas??

cheers
Matt
Presumably you're applying over matt paint, or probably a combination of matt paint and a textured plastic surface in which case you're asking for trouble.

If it's a tank, it's probably fairly small transfers, maybe numbers on a transparent background etc?

Try locally applying a light coat of some gloss varnish, allow it to dry and then apply the transfers to the surface overcoated with "MicroSet" setting solution. This will soften the transfers and allow them to conform to the surface below. Then overcoat the whole thing with a thin coat of Humbrol Matt varnish (spray can #49).

What went wrong when you applied the varnish previously? Was it Matt, Stain or Gloss varnish?

MattyTPhotos

Original Poster:

69 posts

168 months

Monday 16th April 2012
quotequote all
thank you for all the replys smile i think i need to get me some of that stuff, the model is the Revell 1.9 Honda RCV211V, doing it as a kato rep, as to getting the transfers to actually come off the paper, how can i go about this, tried everything but they wont come off until they are ready and that means soaking them for a good while in the water, anyone talk me through the process, starting to really bug me now as its starting to funk up the model a bit, which is something i really dont want as i have spent a lot of time building it, only to be let down by my lack of ability with the transfers

thanks again
Matt smile

dr_gn

16,774 posts

208 months

Monday 16th April 2012
quotequote all
MattyTPhotos said:
thank you for all the replys smile i think i need to get me some of that stuff, the model is the Revell 1.9 Honda RCV211V, doing it as a kato rep, as to getting the transfers to actually come off the paper, how can i go about this, tried everything but they wont come off until they are ready and that means soaking them for a good while in the water, anyone talk me through the process, starting to really bug me now as its starting to funk up the model a bit, which is something i really dont want as i have spent a lot of time building it, only to be let down by my lack of ability with the transfers

thanks again
Matt smile
So it's a fuel tank rather than a tank tank??

Can't find any reference on Google to a "Revell 1.9 Honda RCV211V", unless I'm missing something?

By all means put the transfers in water until they are ready to slide off the backing...if you don't you could easily crack them. There's no set time, it depends on manufacturer and age.

unless you're doing something like trying to put dry transfer decals on using water I can't think of why you're having trouble.

1) put the transfers in water until they're ready to slide off.
2) Apply to a gloss surface - use Microsol if necessary.
3) dab with a tissue.
4) varnish when dry if necessary.

Can you post some pics?

kenny Chim 4

1,604 posts

282 months

Monday 16th April 2012
quotequote all
MattyTPhotos said:
as to getting the transfers to actually come off the paper, how can i go about this, tried everything but they wont come off until they are ready and that means soaking them for a good while in the water, anyone talk me through the process..
Matt smile
Hello Matt, as Eric mentioned, you only need to immerse the individual decal (sorry, transfer wink) for less than a minute as the water absorbed by the backing paper will continue to soften the adhesive. Then place both on top of say, a paint lid- face up- to let that happen.

Wet the area that you are applying it to and then lift it from the backing sheet using a wet brush of an appropriate size to prise between the two- if it doesn't lift, dip it again but only for a moment.

With the surface wet, you can move the transfer into place. I then press a small piece of sponge on to it to set in place. This both absorbs excess liquid and helps it to contour to the surface.

Red Firecracker

5,331 posts

251 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
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This'll be the Gresini Movistar bike? Lots of contours on the tank and fairing, so is the issue getting the decals to settle into the contours successfully? If so, Micro-Sol is one of the tools you could use.


This bike;

http://www.netmerchants.co.uk/product.php/3837/hon...



?

perdu

4,885 posts

223 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
quotequote all
I dont "do" bikes but that is a beauty thumbup

I reckon you need to follow the entire Micro-sol/Micro-set system with something that complex

First brush M-set onto the model where you will be putting the transfers, put them on after soaking to release themmthen brush M-sol in top of the now softened transfers with a soft brush

Using both parts will usually allow the transfers to sit down where you need them

Instructions are on the bottles and although that bike is irregularly shaped they ought to do the job


I had similar problems with a Sauber's side panels and found that Micro-sol helped me a lot but on reflection I wish I'd used both "parts" of the system. It would have made the treansfers work far easier

506

1 posts

151 months

Tuesday 3rd September 2013
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perdu said:
When I left school I became an apprentice printer at a Birmingham Transfer Printers, we didn't call them decals there either.

Butcher's Transfers - Tell The World Who Made It was our trademark. smile
Hi perdu - I am involved in organising a history of Butcher's at the Moseley Road site. It would be great if you could get in touch and I can invite you to our forthcoming opening event.

Thanks

Gaspode

4,167 posts

220 months

Saturday 7th September 2013
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When I was a kid I used to build Airfix models, and of course they were called transfers. I bought my first Tamiya kit, and was surprised to see they were called decals. My mate told me that because the kit was japanese, it was short for 'decalations', and I believed him!

dr_gn

16,774 posts

208 months

Saturday 7th September 2013
quotequote all
Gaspode said:
When I was a kid I used to build Airfix models, and of course they were called transfers. I bought my first Tamiya kit, and was surprised to see they were called decals. My mate told me that because the kit was japanese, it was short for 'decalations', and I believed him!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decal