Mansell's Red 5. (FW14b)
Discussion
Thought I'd start a thread of my next project as some seemed interested in my last Spitfire build.
I started a few months ago but thought I would post nearing the end.
The model is going to be mounted on a piece of carbon and signed by Adrian Newey as a finishing touch.
I am only adding some superficial detail as wires are quite an important underbody detail on an F1 car so it wouldn't look right without them.
I have also bought the extra photoetch set for fixing some of the over thickness parts. I had to chop the endlplates from this wing and bond on metal ones.
Thick plastic rear wing pylons chopped off and nice thin scale metal versions fitted.
Main parts dry fitted together.
20/11/12
Engine pretty much there. Just got to build up the suspension and then fit all the active suspension hoses.
13/12/12
Front and rear hoses & wiring added. Just need to assemble and connect everything up.
Almost ready for exterior paint.
23/12/12
31/12/12
All painted and polished. Just assemble and do the brakes, wheels & tyres last.
Pipe work all connected
]
Chassis bonded on and rads fitted
Seatbelts built up and fitted.
Uprights and brakes fitted.
Wheels ready for tyres. Just waiting for photoetch Goodyear paint stencils to arrive as tyre decals looked naff.
I started a few months ago but thought I would post nearing the end.
The model is going to be mounted on a piece of carbon and signed by Adrian Newey as a finishing touch.
I am only adding some superficial detail as wires are quite an important underbody detail on an F1 car so it wouldn't look right without them.
I have also bought the extra photoetch set for fixing some of the over thickness parts. I had to chop the endlplates from this wing and bond on metal ones.
Thick plastic rear wing pylons chopped off and nice thin scale metal versions fitted.
Main parts dry fitted together.
20/11/12
Engine pretty much there. Just got to build up the suspension and then fit all the active suspension hoses.
13/12/12
Front and rear hoses & wiring added. Just need to assemble and connect everything up.
Almost ready for exterior paint.
23/12/12
31/12/12
All painted and polished. Just assemble and do the brakes, wheels & tyres last.
Pipe work all connected
]Chassis bonded on and rads fitted
Seatbelts built up and fitted.
Uprights and brakes fitted.
Wheels ready for tyres. Just waiting for photoetch Goodyear paint stencils to arrive as tyre decals looked naff.
Edited by Composite Guru on Sunday 20th January 22:56
Which kit is that based on? I have the Tamiya 1/12th scale kit sitting on my dining room table as we speak as I am trying to decide whether to build it, leave it in the box untouched or sell it.
SWMBO wants it sold & out of the way, along with all my other unbuilt kits & models but, so far, I have resisted her calls for the models to be sold.
Yours looks superb. Waiting to see the finished model.
SWMBO wants it sold & out of the way, along with all my other unbuilt kits & models but, so far, I have resisted her calls for the models to be sold.
Yours looks superb. Waiting to see the finished model.
Cheers for the comments. I need to make this model as best as I can as it makes Adrian signing it even more special. The kit detail is not that great as the active suspension hoses are a big part of this kit so need to be added.
The kit is a 1/20 Fujimi kit and was released in 2011. I have added a Studio 27 photoetch kit to make some of the bad parts of the kit a little more scaled.
I'm just waiting on spray stencils for the tyres as the decals were rubbish and very unrealistic.
Should have finished pics within a week hopefully.
The kit is a 1/20 Fujimi kit and was released in 2011. I have added a Studio 27 photoetch kit to make some of the bad parts of the kit a little more scaled.
I'm just waiting on spray stencils for the tyres as the decals were rubbish and very unrealistic.
Should have finished pics within a week hopefully.
Edited by Composite Guru on Sunday 20th January 16:26
fatboy69 said:
Which kit is that based on? I have the Tamiya 1/12th scale kit sitting on my dining room table as we speak as I am trying to decide whether to build it, leave it in the box untouched or sell it.
SWMBO wants it sold & out of the way, along with all my other unbuilt kits & models but, so far, I have resisted her calls for the models to be sold.
Yours looks superb. Waiting to see the finished model.
I do now want to build a 1/12 after this as I have been using the tamiya instructions to scale all the pipework for this kit. It has been really handy and a great insight into the tamiya kit. SWMBO wants it sold & out of the way, along with all my other unbuilt kits & models but, so far, I have resisted her calls for the models to be sold.
Yours looks superb. Waiting to see the finished model.
Edited by Composite Guru on Sunday 20th January 17:40
I have had my 1/12th scale Tamiya kit for years - since the week it hit the shops whenever that was. It cost me £70 which was a lot in those days.
Tempted to sell it, saw one go on fleabay a few weeks for £260!!!!!, however thinking I might finally ge to build it one day soon.
Just need to stop buying, & building, Lego Technic for a while..........
Tempted to sell it, saw one go on fleabay a few weeks for £260!!!!!, however thinking I might finally ge to build it one day soon.
Just need to stop buying, & building, Lego Technic for a while..........
It’s looking very good so far. The photo-etch wing is a particular improvement.
I’m always a bit reticent about commenting on what I would consider improvements, but here goes anyway:
On the small, moulded-in details such as the suspension actuators and control boxes on the nose, I think it would look even better with a very subtle, dark pin-wash applied to the steps in the plastic. This, I think would give these assemblies a little more definition, and make the separate components look more “separated” or “assembled from different parts” rather than solid mouldings.
It’s a personal preference, and either way, what you have now doesn’t detract from the quality of the build.
The other thing was, and I'm not sure about this, but should the right hand wheel nuts be anodised blue, and only the left nuts anodised red?
I’m always a bit reticent about commenting on what I would consider improvements, but here goes anyway:
On the small, moulded-in details such as the suspension actuators and control boxes on the nose, I think it would look even better with a very subtle, dark pin-wash applied to the steps in the plastic. This, I think would give these assemblies a little more definition, and make the separate components look more “separated” or “assembled from different parts” rather than solid mouldings.
It’s a personal preference, and either way, what you have now doesn’t detract from the quality of the build.
The other thing was, and I'm not sure about this, but should the right hand wheel nuts be anodised blue, and only the left nuts anodised red?
dr_gn said:
It’s looking very good so far. The photo-etch wing is a particular improvement.
I’m always a bit reticent about commenting on what I would consider improvements, but here goes anyway:
On the small, moulded-in details such as the suspension actuators and control boxes on the nose, I think it would look even better with a very subtle, dark pin-wash applied to the steps in the plastic. This, I think would give these assemblies a little more definition, and make the separate components look more “separated” or “assembled from different parts” rather than solid mouldings.
It’s a personal preference, and either way, what you have now doesn’t detract from the quality of the build.
The other thing was, and I'm not sure about this, but should the right hand wheel nuts be anodised blue, and only the left nuts anodised red?
I like a bit of constructive critisism as this is my first F1 model and my 4th model since starting back after 20 years. I’m always a bit reticent about commenting on what I would consider improvements, but here goes anyway:
On the small, moulded-in details such as the suspension actuators and control boxes on the nose, I think it would look even better with a very subtle, dark pin-wash applied to the steps in the plastic. This, I think would give these assemblies a little more definition, and make the separate components look more “separated” or “assembled from different parts” rather than solid mouldings.
It’s a personal preference, and either way, what you have now doesn’t detract from the quality of the build.
The other thing was, and I'm not sure about this, but should the right hand wheel nuts be anodised blue, and only the left nuts anodised red?
I still haven't got loads of experience with weathering but slowly getting it so will try highlighting some of the fine detail.
As for the wheel nuts. I think you maybe right but i was following the fujimi instuction on the colour but i may consult the Tamiya instuctions as i think they maybe a little more concise.
Cheers
Matt
Composite Guru said:
dr_gn said:
It’s looking very good so far. The photo-etch wing is a particular improvement.
I’m always a bit reticent about commenting on what I would consider improvements, but here goes anyway:
On the small, moulded-in details such as the suspension actuators and control boxes on the nose, I think it would look even better with a very subtle, dark pin-wash applied to the steps in the plastic. This, I think would give these assemblies a little more definition, and make the separate components look more “separated” or “assembled from different parts” rather than solid mouldings.
It’s a personal preference, and either way, what you have now doesn’t detract from the quality of the build.
The other thing was, and I'm not sure about this, but should the right hand wheel nuts be anodised blue, and only the left nuts anodised red?
I like a bit of constructive critisism as this is my first F1 model and my 4th model since starting back after 20 years. I’m always a bit reticent about commenting on what I would consider improvements, but here goes anyway:
On the small, moulded-in details such as the suspension actuators and control boxes on the nose, I think it would look even better with a very subtle, dark pin-wash applied to the steps in the plastic. This, I think would give these assemblies a little more definition, and make the separate components look more “separated” or “assembled from different parts” rather than solid mouldings.
It’s a personal preference, and either way, what you have now doesn’t detract from the quality of the build.
The other thing was, and I'm not sure about this, but should the right hand wheel nuts be anodised blue, and only the left nuts anodised red?
I still haven't got loads of experience with weathering but slowly getting it so will try highlighting some of the fine detail.
As for the wheel nuts. I think you maybe right but i was following the fujimi instuction on the colour but i may consult the Tamiya instuctions as i think they maybe a little more concise.
Cheers
Matt
Paint the actuators/raised details with a thin coat of Klear and let dry completely overnight.
Add a *tiny* bit of MIG dark wash to the relevant areas. It will capillary around well defined ridges or steps. You can always wick any excess away with a clean brush or some cloth damped with enamel thinners. Even when the wash is dry, it is so thin that you can remove it with a dab of thiners.
Alternatavely, leave this model alone and try it on the next one. It would be terrible to spoil it at this stage if you really weren't confident of the technique.
Composite Guru said:
Yes, you are right. Red Left, Blue Right.
Cheers.
I found a good technique for simulating anodised parts was to paint with fine-grained silver eg Citadel Mythril (sp?) silver for example, then overspray in light coats with Tamiya Clear Blue or Clear Red. I used this a lot for my XJR9 build, and it looks OK:Cheers.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=27&...
Red Firecracker said:
Looking good, really like it. Were you tempted to make any sort of connector for the active suspension cables where they join?
Cheers for the tips. I will try some of them on my next builds. As for the connectors, I am planning to do a bit of fine tuning right at the end and that was one thing I was going to add.
Once the model is finished I'm going to go over it and add anything Iay have missed.
Watch this space.
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