White metal models - prepping & spraying advice please.

[Woody]

Guys,
I've got a couple of the SMTS 1:43 white metal model kits that I want to make a start on.
Anyone have any advice for prepping the shells for spraying?

Specifically thinking about primers, paints and a decent economical airbrush.

Thanks

Chris

[72twink]

For cleaning up use files, needle files, maybe knife/scalpal and then prep the whole surface with wet and dry pretty much like a real car. When it comes to painting you can get away with rattle cans and most of us here recommend the Halfords range as they go on nicley and are easily available. One thing to remember with any White metal kit is that due to the low volume nature and the way the castings are manufactured every one is slightly different from the next so dry runs and test fitting are the way forward - you'll have dry built it a few times before touching any paint. I'm sure Red Firecracker wil be along to give a more professional approach, any of his build or Dinky restoration threads would be worth a read.

[dr_gn]

I agree with '72 - RedFirecracker's the man for advice.

[kenny Chim 4]

72twink said:

For cleaning up use files, needle files, maybe knife/scalpal and then prep the whole surface with wet and dry pretty much like a real car.

Agreed but instead of using sand paper it's much easier, more effective and less damaging to any detail if you use fine wire wool. Then apply a thin coat of Halfords White Primer as this provides a 'tooth' for the final coat(s) to adhere to.

[Red Firecracker]

Thanks for the recommendations, guys.

Chris, if you wish to dispense with my ramblings, then this is a good guide;

http://www.grandprixmodels.com/43rdscale-part1.php

There's three parts and it's very good.

My technique is basically the same. The main thing to remember is that the more prep work you put in at the start of the project, the better the final result. White metal is a dirty metal so needs to be very clean to get a good paint finish, so washing and drying the castings is imperative to get rid of all the first that will build up on it. Personally, once I have removed any flash and before I start to adjust any parts that require it, I give the bits a good going over with a wire wheel in my mini-drill. This gives me a good starting point.

SMTS kits are pretty good fit wise, but you'll still need to carefully check the fit and finish of all the parts. Where you need to get a file or drill involved, always let the tool do the work at its own pace, don't be tempted to apply undue pressure to speed things up. It will come back to bite you.

One thing that it well worth getting out of the way before you go too far is the fit and finish of the glazing. It's the bit I hate with a passion, but I am learning that with better prior prep, it is much better. It is far easier to adjust the window frames or headlight recesses when there is no paint on the model.

With regards to painting, there's not much better than Halfords primer, sprayed from a distance and not too heavy. I use the grey as I find it far superior to the white in being able to cover thinly. I also always rub down between primer coats and before colour coats. It may seem like you're undoing work you've already done, but it really does benefit the final finish. Are you replicating the S in your profile? If so, you're better served with choices of colour as it is not a metallic. If you go down the rattle can route, it is well worth getting some alternative nozzles from a street art shop so that you can get a finer mist rather than the standard heavy spray.

Once you've finished the model, you might find over time that the weight of it will compress the rubber tyres, so well worth making a little plank for it to sit on at the correct height. I've successfully used small acrylic rod behind the wheels so that the tyres are just touching the ground but not taking any weight.

The main things to remember are to enjoy the process and that cleanliness is king. Oh, and to show us how you're getting on.

[Woody]

Thanks for the reply!

Kit's I have to do are an Aston DB7 and a TVR Griffith - trying to track down a TVR S.

Thanks for the link to guide - really useful.

Need to get myself some files etc. - any recommendations for where to get some?

Have had a browse through some of your build threads - superb work!

[Red Firecracker]

Woody said:

Thanks for the reply!

Kit's I have to do are an Aston DB7 and a TVR Griffith - trying to track down a TVR S.

Thanks for the link to guide - really useful.

Need to get myself some files etc. - any recommendations for where to get some?

Have had a browse through some of your build threads - superb work!

Thanks for the compliments.

On those two models you need to pay particular attention to the headlight covers. Get those fitting right before you do any painting at all and it'll pay dividends later on.

You can get some good needle files from places like eBay. What I'd suggest is avoiding the really cheap and the really expensive and go for a mid price offering, between £10 and £15. I forgot to mention glues. I tend to use a variety of cyano, impact and epoxy adhesives, depending on what it is I am bonding. Also, you may find that you need to fill in some areas. For this I use either Milliput or knifing putty. SMTS are pretty good kits, so a good quality knifing putty should see you right.

[Evangelion]

Don't forget that if there are any small location holes for things like suspension parts, you need to drill them all out to the correct size before you start painting. You may consider it a silly idea, as I once did, to drill holes which will later be filled with paint! However you'll find it much easier to clear paint from a hole which has already been drilled, than to drill a hole from scratch in a painted body. Scratch is the word, as the drill can all too easily slip on the smooth finish and damage something. (See Sod's Law.)