Clutch Master gone
Clutch Master gone
Author
Discussion

mgb driver

Original Poster:

45 posts

285 months

Sunday 25th January 2004
quotequote all
Was going to get the new tires installed today on my 88 Turbo, but when I started the car, the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. I had noticed a puddle under the front of the car a few days ago...... now I know why. I'm assuming it's just the master cylinder. Is this a difficult repair? Is the master cylinder a Lotus part or from some other marque? I picked up some non-synthetic brake fluid that exceeds dot 3/4 specs, although I haven't put any in the car yet. Is this a safe thing to use? The master cylinder cap did not specify which fluid to used, although the brake booster had a DOT 4 label affixed.

Thanks,
Kevin

lotusguy

1,798 posts

280 months

Sunday 25th January 2004
quotequote all
mgb driver said:
Was going to get the new tires installed today on my 88 Turbo, but when I started the car, the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. I had noticed a puddle under the front of the car a few days ago...... now I know why. I'm assuming it's just the master cylinder. Is this a difficult repair? Is the master cylinder a Lotus part or from some other marque? I picked up some non-synthetic brake fluid that exceeds dot 3/4 specs, although I haven't put any in the car yet. Is this a safe thing to use? The master cylinder cap did not specify which fluid to used, although the brake booster had a DOT 4 label affixed.

Thanks,
Kevin


Kevin,

Sorry to hear of Your troubles. Definitely sounds as if the Master let loose. Rebuild is fairly straightforward as long as there isn't much corrosion in the bottom of the bore, if so, you can have it re-sleeved. About 1 hour's time and $50/$60 bucks for the kit.

Consider replacing the slave cylinder at the same time as once one goes, the other is usually not far behind. Also, if you don't have the SS braided line, now is a good time to do the conversion.

So far as fluid is concerned, I would not switch to a synthetic. This is for two reasons. First, synthetics do not absorb moisture, rather it settles out of the fluid at the lowest point of the system. This means on the bottom of your master bore and slave cylinders, where this causes pitting which eventually tears the rubber seals the piston rides on. Secondly, Girling uses real rubber in their seals and these units are used in everything from Jaguars, Healeys, Trimphs, MG's to Mini's. Each Owner's Group for these cars swears unanimously that using Castrol LMA Low Moisture Activity, a DOT 4 fluid, extends the life of the seals while all other brands and grades of fluid actually acelerates the seal's deterioration. Anecdotal evidence to be sure, but this accepted practice virtually spans the entire British Car Community and has, unchallenged, for nearly 20 years...sort of thousands of people cannot be all wrong. Hope this Helps. Happy Motoring!... Jim'85TE