Advice for complete restoration of 93 SE
Advice for complete restoration of 93 SE
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Discussion

asianbond

Original Poster:

59 posts

267 months

Sunday 8th February 2004
quotequote all
Just bought a 93 SE Highwing and had my mechanic look it over for necessary service items. My goal is to completely restore the car to tip top shape. I list the items to be serviced and it will be an engine, transmission and suspension out job. Just looking for feedback on whether I'm overlooking something. Now would be a good time to perform any preventative maintenance on the engine while it is out of the car.

-new air filter (maybe green cotton)
-new engine oil (Castrol snythetic 10/60)
-Lotus oil filter
-new spark plug wires (magnecor)
-new spark plugs (NGK
-new fuel filter
-new shocks and springs
-new front upper and lower control arm bushings
-new upper and lower ball joints
-new front and rear brake pads (undecided on which brand)
-rebuit calipers with rebuild kit
-new stainless steel brake hose
-new brake fluid
-new coolant tank cap
-new chargecooler cap
-new alternator belt
-new air con belt
-new cambelt
-new cambelt pulley bearing
-new cam cover gasket
-new clutch kit
-new clutch slave cylinder
-new stainless clutch hose
-new engine mounts
-new transmission mounts
-new transmission fluid

Am I missing anything?

kylie

4,391 posts

280 months

Sunday 8th February 2004
quotequote all
Turbo, radiator, fuel tanks perhaps.Are you keeping it concourse or planing to do some modifications? Powersteering would be a nice upgrade.

asianbond

Original Poster:

59 posts

267 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Sorry, forgot to mention, new turbo overhaul.

Not concours, just like to have a perfect running car for weekend driving.

Will check the radiator. Have on list to replace the two rubber S fuel hoses that come out of the dual tanks and the steel fuel line between them.

asianbond

Original Poster:

59 posts

267 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
heard the power steering upgrade is way too much effort

mikelr

153 posts

271 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
How about some new tires, paint job and some fuzzy dice?

Del-Esprit

57 posts

271 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
If not replacing tanks, would take the opportunity whilst engine is ut to coat inside/outside of tanks with a special coating that is avialble and replace crap foam at base for non-absorbant items.

If you are a spirited driver than a brake upgrade could be an idea.
Vented discs and better pads at a minimum, or a full upgrade to AP/Willwood. May require larger wheels.


>> Edited by Del-Esprit on Monday 9th February 10:20

asianbond

Original Poster:

59 posts

267 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Hi del-esprit, can you elaborate a bit more on the tank issue, I assume fuel tank, and using a new type of mounting material.

Will resurface rotor, recondition calipers, add SS brake lines and use Pagid or porterfield pads as a first experiment on the stopping power.

Plan for a full body respray and recondition of rims after putting a few miles on the car. Tires are good.

Skerd

384 posts

290 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
No offense, but for how much you are going to spend you might as well get a newer, better, faster car in the first place.

lotusguy

1,798 posts

280 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
Hi,

How many miles on the car? It's the only logical starting point. Happy Motoring!... Jim'85TE

>> Edited by lotusguy on Monday 9th February 14:54

asianbond

Original Poster:

59 posts

267 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
20,000km. It's a keeper!

lotusguy

1,798 posts

280 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
asianbond said:
20,000km. It's a keeper!


Hi,

At that mileage, I would do a leak-down test to indicate the valve health, check and replace front main seal as necessary (never easier than when your're changing the timing belt), check for signs of leaking from rear main seal, manually check turbo to insure seals are in good stead and are not leaking, that shaft isn't binding, check valve clearances, Flush brake system hydraulics and check calipers for signs of leaking, Repack front bearings, Replace all vacuum hoses (age), Test and replace as necessary high tension leads, Flush chargecooler and replace pump impellor, check condition of upper/lower balljoints, replace 'T'stat, check condition of throttle cable and adjust to insure WOT (they stretch with time), check/replace 0² sensor (age), clean injectors (age), LoadTest alternator and battery, repair/rep[lace as necessary. Just a few of the things I would do to establish a baseline and gain confidence in the car generally. Happy Motoring!... Jim'85TE

Del-Esprit

57 posts

271 months

Monday 9th February 2004
quotequote all
On the Fuel tank my origional post wasn't that clear sorry.
Ideally use a fuel tank sealer that is applied to the inside of the fuel tank and can also be used on the exterior.
This creates a rust proof layer between the fuel and the metal tank material,preventing leakage even if small holes start to rust through.
An example product (this is not recomendation only first one that appeared in web search)
www.prp-porshop.com/por-15-tank-sealer.htm

Del
S4s 95