Replacing Clutch
Discussion
Hey, I just put mine back in last week! It is not hard at all. I was a bit nervouse at first having never done an Esprit, but I found that a car is a car so to speak. It took me about 3.5 hours of actually working on the clutch. I cleaned and respayed all the little bits while they were out and this took up some time. There was a great step by step posted for benifit some months ago, I'll locate it and past it here... There were some differences as I have a C5 gear box, but it goes smooth... right out the top! I would say it was actually one of the easiest clutch replacements I have ever done in a driveway (way easier than the RX-7).
I'll find that post...
Drive topless!!!
Cameron
Here it is...
Getting the gearbox out is not that bad.... I think Johan owns the record by yanking one out in less than 30 minutes. But for the record, the steps are:
1- Remove rear luggage compartment floor, disconnecting vacuum hoses and electrical leads as necessary.
2- Remove the chassis rear crossmember.
3- Remove the silencer. Drain the transmission oil.
4- Disconnect the reverse light switch wires and release the speedo cable (if applicable).
5- Disconnect the gearchange cables and on 4-cylinder cars, remove the exhaust motuning cradle from the transmission.
6- Using punch set T000T0678, drive out the two concentric rollpins securing the drive shaft inboard joint to the transmission output shaft and discard the pins (ah, get new pins).
7- Taking note of the positions of the bolt head washer and bushing snubber washers, remove the stud securing the hub carrier to the top link. Loosen the hub carrier lower stud, and pull the hub outwards sufficiently to draw the drive shaft off the output shaft splines.
8- On 4-cylinder cars, disconnect the turbocharger oil drain pipe, water feed pipe and air inlet hose. Seal the turbo air intake to prevent dirt entry.
9- On 4-cylinder cars, release the clutch slave cylinder from the clutch housing, and remove the flywheel sensor from the top of the clutch housing. Remove the starter motor. On V8 models, remove the clutch slave cylinder and mounting bracket. Pull the clutch release fork upwards and rearwards to unhook the keyhole slot in the fork from the pivot ball, and allow the fingers of the fork to be withdrawn from the release bearing collar (release bearing is captive in clutch cover diaphragm spring).
10- Support the transmission and remove the gearbox mounting brackets and rubber mountings. Support the engine and release the clutch housing to engine bolts, noting their different lengths and positions. Note any shim washers fitted between the sump and clutch housing.
11- Carefully draw the transmission rearwards to disengage the clutch shaft from the spigot bearing and clutch cover, and lift out the complete transmission assembly.
Whew... hope that helps!
Regards, KM
2000 V8
>> Edited by autocross7 on Tuesday 27th April 03:21
I'll find that post...
Drive topless!!!
Cameron
Here it is...
Getting the gearbox out is not that bad.... I think Johan owns the record by yanking one out in less than 30 minutes. But for the record, the steps are:
1- Remove rear luggage compartment floor, disconnecting vacuum hoses and electrical leads as necessary.
2- Remove the chassis rear crossmember.
3- Remove the silencer. Drain the transmission oil.
4- Disconnect the reverse light switch wires and release the speedo cable (if applicable).
5- Disconnect the gearchange cables and on 4-cylinder cars, remove the exhaust motuning cradle from the transmission.
6- Using punch set T000T0678, drive out the two concentric rollpins securing the drive shaft inboard joint to the transmission output shaft and discard the pins (ah, get new pins).
7- Taking note of the positions of the bolt head washer and bushing snubber washers, remove the stud securing the hub carrier to the top link. Loosen the hub carrier lower stud, and pull the hub outwards sufficiently to draw the drive shaft off the output shaft splines.
8- On 4-cylinder cars, disconnect the turbocharger oil drain pipe, water feed pipe and air inlet hose. Seal the turbo air intake to prevent dirt entry.
9- On 4-cylinder cars, release the clutch slave cylinder from the clutch housing, and remove the flywheel sensor from the top of the clutch housing. Remove the starter motor. On V8 models, remove the clutch slave cylinder and mounting bracket. Pull the clutch release fork upwards and rearwards to unhook the keyhole slot in the fork from the pivot ball, and allow the fingers of the fork to be withdrawn from the release bearing collar (release bearing is captive in clutch cover diaphragm spring).
10- Support the transmission and remove the gearbox mounting brackets and rubber mountings. Support the engine and release the clutch housing to engine bolts, noting their different lengths and positions. Note any shim washers fitted between the sump and clutch housing.
11- Carefully draw the transmission rearwards to disengage the clutch shaft from the spigot bearing and clutch cover, and lift out the complete transmission assembly.
Whew... hope that helps!
Regards, KM
2000 V8
>> Edited by autocross7 on Tuesday 27th April 03:21
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