MTB fork upgrade - what do I need to know?
Discussion
I have a Cannondale which I like, but I wouldn’t mind upgrading the fork from the fairly basic one that’s on it. From the bike spec I have the following info: Suntour XCR-LO, coil, 100mm, lockout, 1 1/8”. I’m on disk brakes and 26” wheels.
I’m assuming 100mm is the travel, but what is the 1 1/8” dimension?
Also, are all forks the same width at the hub?
Any recommendation on an upgrade? Used or new. It’s for cross country riding not monster downhilling.
Thanks.
I’m assuming 100mm is the travel, but what is the 1 1/8” dimension?
Also, are all forks the same width at the hub?
Any recommendation on an upgrade? Used or new. It’s for cross country riding not monster downhilling.
Thanks.
1 1/8” is the diameter of the steerer tube, so determines what size headset the bike uses.
If the hub end uses a quick release rather than a through axle then they are all the same width. I’d be looking at a second hand Fox 32 fork with the same amount of travel as your old fork. 26” wheels are basically dead in the mtb industry now. Even as long ago as 2012 most bikes were moving to tapered steerer tubes and through axles so you might struggle to find something decent that fits on your bike at reasonable cost.
Also worth bearing in mind what sort of mount your front brake needs as there are multiple standards there too and you may need an adaptor.
If the hub end uses a quick release rather than a through axle then they are all the same width. I’d be looking at a second hand Fox 32 fork with the same amount of travel as your old fork. 26” wheels are basically dead in the mtb industry now. Even as long ago as 2012 most bikes were moving to tapered steerer tubes and through axles so you might struggle to find something decent that fits on your bike at reasonable cost.
Also worth bearing in mind what sort of mount your front brake needs as there are multiple standards there too and you may need an adaptor.
1 1/8th is the diameter of the steerer tube. If you've got a 26" bike, it'll almost certainly be straight. More recently it could be tapered. You also need to keep roughly the same suspension travel. You'd probably get away with up to 120mm, but any more than that and you'll start to mess with the frame geometry too much.
What is it that you don't like about your current fork? Have you made sure you've set it up properly?
To be honest, if you're looking for a new fork, you're going to be exceptionally limited on choice. Take a look at Chain Reaction, for example, and the only option you've got is the Rockshox Solo Air Silver for £214, and you'll have to have it with V brake mounts whether you've got V brakes or not.
What is it that you don't like about your current fork? Have you made sure you've set it up properly?
To be honest, if you're looking for a new fork, you're going to be exceptionally limited on choice. Take a look at Chain Reaction, for example, and the only option you've got is the Rockshox Solo Air Silver for £214, and you'll have to have it with V brake mounts whether you've got V brakes or not.
1 1/8 is the headtube diameter, the old standard. if its quick release wheels its easy, if its bolt through its a bit more complex. 26 is old hat now, and 2nd hand values are depressingly low. Have a look at ebay and find a nice plush air fork and youre laughing. upto 120mm should be fine, don't be tricked into the arms race of more travel though, 100mm is perfect for a fast XC bike (well, its perfect at my skill level, better riders may disagree).
Major brands used to be Fox, Rock Shox, Marzochhi and Pace, with manitou getting some nice cheaper forks onto the market, but my peak MTB time was probably 15 years ago so the market has changed no doubt!
Major brands used to be Fox, Rock Shox, Marzochhi and Pace, with manitou getting some nice cheaper forks onto the market, but my peak MTB time was probably 15 years ago so the market has changed no doubt!
Thanks for the replies. I appreciate I’m behind the times but I like the bike and can’t justify replacing it at the moment.
The current fork is clonking a bit and the lock out still leaves an inch of travel (which it didn’t used to do). It would no doubt benefit from a service but I didn’t know if an upgrade was relatively inexpensive and might save some weight.
What will mine use as a damper? Or is it just a spring and that’s it?
The current fork is clonking a bit and the lock out still leaves an inch of travel (which it didn’t used to do). It would no doubt benefit from a service but I didn’t know if an upgrade was relatively inexpensive and might save some weight.
What will mine use as a damper? Or is it just a spring and that’s it?
RicksAlfas said:
Thanks for the replies. I appreciate I’m behind the times but I like the bike and can’t justify replacing it at the moment.
The current fork is clonking a bit and the lock out still leaves an inch of travel (which it didn’t used to do). It would no doubt benefit from a service but I didn’t know if an upgrade was relatively inexpensive and might save some weight.
What will mine use as a damper? Or is it just a spring and that’s it?
It would probably cost more to service it than it would to have bought it new! The current fork is clonking a bit and the lock out still leaves an inch of travel (which it didn’t used to do). It would no doubt benefit from a service but I didn’t know if an upgrade was relatively inexpensive and might save some weight.
What will mine use as a damper? Or is it just a spring and that’s it?
There will be loads of cheap good forks out there second hand, but you're taking a risk that they'll be in the same condition as your current ones.
A better bet might just be to replace them with some other cheap new Suntour forks like these... https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/SR-Suntour-MTB-Forks-26-X...
The classified section on the pinkbike website is pretty good too. I am also still running 26" with a straight steerer and there are some bargains to be had. Rockshox Recon and Reba go for a decent price as do Fox 32's and will still be available with a QR dropout.
Last year I picked up a pair of immaculate Rockshox Revelations with a 20mm thru axle for £80 including delivery! I love being at the obsolete end of the mountain biking equation. Cheap thrills.
Last year I picked up a pair of immaculate Rockshox Revelations with a 20mm thru axle for £80 including delivery! I love being at the obsolete end of the mountain biking equation. Cheap thrills.
Remember you can put a 26” wheel in a 650b fork. Suntour the last few years have been producing good forks coming back to market, spec’d on whytes etc. You can get a straight steerer 650b Radion (air fork about Reba quality having got one for the Mrs bike) new for £150, 2nd hand I suspect ~£50 which even brings super cheap and more or less up to date (9mm QR) in to the equation.
For a new fork, the Manitou Markhor is pitched exactly at this market - https://www.manitoumtb.com/products/forks/markhor/
Available with lots of choices but you can buy 100mm travel, 26", straight 1 1/8" steerer, QR format. Will go straight on with no hassles.
Not listed online in many places but a local Manitou dealer (map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1AHHvXYXQ... ) should be able to order some in for you.
Available with lots of choices but you can buy 100mm travel, 26", straight 1 1/8" steerer, QR format. Will go straight on with no hassles.
Not listed online in many places but a local Manitou dealer (map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1AHHvXYXQ... ) should be able to order some in for you.
Thanks for the suggestions. The Markhor seems hard to get in the UK.
However my local bike shop has mentioned that if I am replacing the headset as well as the fork, there is nothing to stop me going for a tapered fork with a matching headset. Does that make sense? It should give me more choice, but is it as simple as they say?
This is my frame. I believe it's a straight 1.5 head tube:
However my local bike shop has mentioned that if I am replacing the headset as well as the fork, there is nothing to stop me going for a tapered fork with a matching headset. Does that make sense? It should give me more choice, but is it as simple as they say?
This is my frame. I believe it's a straight 1.5 head tube:
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