Discussion
I am looking to do a full brake fluid replacement on my Exige S2, and am in a little bit of a conundrum as to which fluid to use. I am going to be tracking the car, and am hard on the brakes whilst on track, often experiencing fade, however I really cannot justofy the 40quid a litre or so for SRF, especially as I will prob need more than a litre to fully flush the system!
Was tempted for AP600, but a couple of litres of that soon adds up.
Anyone got any good recommendations from personal experince? I find going into the Foggy Esses at Donny and finding you have no brakes somewhat disconcerting!
TIA
Jonny
Was tempted for AP600, but a couple of litres of that soon adds up.
Anyone got any good recommendations from personal experince? I find going into the Foggy Esses at Donny and finding you have no brakes somewhat disconcerting!
TIA
Jonny
If you syphon all the old stuff out of the reservoir before you start -- 1 ltr will be plenty
TBH is £50 or so for SRF such a big factor for total peace of mind when tracking? We all know how expensive this hobby can be and IMO that just seems excellent value for money!
TBH is £50 or so for SRF such a big factor for total peace of mind when tracking? We all know how expensive this hobby can be and IMO that just seems excellent value for money!
Edited by legaleagleboy on Friday 10th October 14:00
I heard good stuff about ATE Super Blue from a price/performance perspecitve. So I'm using that now.
From these guys. http://www.k300performance.co.uk/brake-fluid.htm
From these guys. http://www.k300performance.co.uk/brake-fluid.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Read my contribution a few posts down of the above topic.
I use Motul RBF600 on the road and track, no problems at all.
Read my contribution a few posts down of the above topic.
I use Motul RBF600 on the road and track, no problems at all.
I know that I risk sounding somewhat facetious here, but as someone who just this week put three complete tanks of fuel through a car for a single day on track (including ferry mileage of course) I still struggle to comprehend how the price difference between SRF and another slightly cheaper alternative (i.e. saving the price of a round at the pub) creates such extensive discussions... 
Motul or ATE if you really care about the extra 15 quid or whatever every 6 months / a year (depending on how much you track), SRF otherwise...
Is there really that much more to it than that?

Motul or ATE if you really care about the extra 15 quid or whatever every 6 months / a year (depending on how much you track), SRF otherwise...
Is there really that much more to it than that?
Edited by DiscoColin on Friday 10th October 20:43
Edited by DiscoColin on Friday 10th October 20:44
DiscoColin said:
I know that I risk sounding somewhat facetious here, but as someone who just this week put three complete tanks of fuel through a car for a single day on track (including ferry mileage of course) I still struggle to comprehend how the price difference between SRF and another slightly cheaper alternative (i.e. saving the price of a round at the pub) creates such extensive discussions... 
Motul or ATE if you really care about the extra 15 quid or whatever every 6 months / a year (depending on how much you track), SRF otherwise...
Is there really that much more to it than that?
Tis all well and good, but if I need more than half a litre of SRF (which I will) we are talking 100 ish minimum just on brake fluid, which becomes quite significant to my wallet, especially if something else cheaper will do just as good a job.
Motul or ATE if you really care about the extra 15 quid or whatever every 6 months / a year (depending on how much you track), SRF otherwise...
Is there really that much more to it than that?
Edited by DiscoColin on Friday 10th October 20:43
Edited by DiscoColin on Friday 10th October 20:44
I suppose I could ask 'is using SRF overkill given my car and how hard I am on the brakes, if so, what is teh best alternative?'!!
jonamacg83 said:
I suppose I could ask 'is using SRF overkill given my car and how hard I am on the brakes, if so, what is teh best alternative?'!!
It probably is overkill on a lighter car, but after the initial bleed/flush it will certainly only be 1 litre per refresh going forward. Under the circumstances I would say to go for the ATE Superblue or Motul RBF600 recommended by other posters above - my other point is that every time the question comes up these two are always the most regularly recommended solutions and the difference between those and SRF is only likely to be experienced by a serious problem child according to what I have been told by people who know decidedly more about this stuff than I.Dry Boiling Points In Order Degrees C
Dry Wet
321 216 Neo-Synthetic Super DOT 610
312 216 Motul RBF600
310 270 Castrol SRF
310 210 AP Racing 600
286 184 Castrol Response, Super Dot 4
280 200 ATE Superblue/TYP200
275 150 AP Racing 551
265 185 Motul 5.1
261 173 Valvoline SynPower
230 155 DOT4 Specification
Wet Boiling Points In Order Degrees C
Wet Dry
270 310 Castrol SRF
216 321 Neo-Synthetic Super DOT 610
216 312 Motul RBF600
210 310 AP Racing 600
200 280 ATE Superblue/TYP200
185 265 Motul 5.1
184 286 Castrol Response, Super Dot 4
173 261 Valvoline SynPower
155 230 DOT4 Specification
150 275 AP Racing 551
Dry Wet
321 216 Neo-Synthetic Super DOT 610
312 216 Motul RBF600
310 270 Castrol SRF
310 210 AP Racing 600
286 184 Castrol Response, Super Dot 4
280 200 ATE Superblue/TYP200
275 150 AP Racing 551
265 185 Motul 5.1
261 173 Valvoline SynPower
230 155 DOT4 Specification
Wet Boiling Points In Order Degrees C
Wet Dry
270 310 Castrol SRF
216 321 Neo-Synthetic Super DOT 610
216 312 Motul RBF600
210 310 AP Racing 600
200 280 ATE Superblue/TYP200
185 265 Motul 5.1
184 286 Castrol Response, Super Dot 4
173 261 Valvoline SynPower
155 230 DOT4 Specification
150 275 AP Racing 551
That's *really* interesting Elderly. I'd actually, erroneously it seems, assumed that the SRF having such a high dry boiling point would have a conversely low wet boiling point as it would be more hygroscopic and would therefore need more frequent changes. With wet performance better than a lot of fluids dry, the SRF looks like it would happily last a season. I'll definitely be shelling out on the track car next year then.
Edited by anonymous-user on Sunday 12th October 15:09
jonamacg83 said:
DiscoColin said:
I know that I risk sounding somewhat facetious here, but as someone who just this week put three complete tanks of fuel through a car for a single day on track (including ferry mileage of course) I still struggle to comprehend how the price difference between SRF and another slightly cheaper alternative (i.e. saving the price of a round at the pub) creates such extensive discussions... 
Motul or ATE if you really care about the extra 15 quid or whatever every 6 months / a year (depending on how much you track), SRF otherwise...
Is there really that much more to it than that?
Tis all well and good, but if I need more than half a litre of SRF (which I will) we are talking 100 ish minimum just on brake fluid, which becomes quite significant to my wallet, especially if something else cheaper will do just as good a job.
Motul or ATE if you really care about the extra 15 quid or whatever every 6 months / a year (depending on how much you track), SRF otherwise...
Is there really that much more to it than that?
I suppose I could ask 'is using SRF overkill given my car and how hard I am on the brakes, if so, what is teh best alternative?'!!
1 liter is enough for a full change - make sure you syphon off most of the old fluid from the reservoir first though to minimize how much SRF you pump out of the calipers.
Because of the high wet boiling point of the SRF, you don't need to change it as often as other fluids, making it cheaper in the long run.
I really don't think you can seriously do any track days if you're skimping on the last £20. Track days get VERY expensive in wear and tear items. The price difference in SRF and other fluids is in the noise.
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