E46 M3 exhuasts
E46 M3 exhuasts
Author
Discussion

istoo

Original Poster:

2,365 posts

228 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
My totally standard E46 M3 is starting to blow around the back box to centre section junctions. Its seriously rusted around there, both clamp and sections. My garage were not keen on opening it up as both may then crumble apart. So i am faced with a number of choices and from reading up it seems that the rasp, which i have become accustomed too, i may loose with an after market system. Currently in two minds about keeping/ selling car so this is semi-financially driven. But i wont put on sh*t. I have had exhausts made in the past, being in north Scotland choice is very limited (Powerflow).

would like to hear words of wisdom for;

1. Replace with a factory system from cat back?
2. Replace with descent SH Miltek or recognised good aftermarket system, centre/back
3. Replace with new aftermarket system...

for 2 & 3, it seems there is a big swath of opinion, i would like to keep the rasp... i like the rasp.

edit..

4. these http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/motorsport/... listed on PH site, any words of wisdom.

Edited by istoo on Wednesday 10th April 13:15

istoo

Original Poster:

2,365 posts

228 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
E46 M3 exhausts, cant seem to change title, no spelling/grammar attacks just yet

martin mrt

3,879 posts

227 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
The rear silencer-middle section clamps on the E46s are notorious for rusting and cracking, my 4 year old 37000 mile example suffered from it.

If I were in your shoes I'd try and get a 2nd hand milltek, super sprint, etc to replace it all with

I bought a super sprint race system for mine from a mate, and also got his non cracked standard system in exchange for my OEM system in the deal, to refit to the car when It was time to sell up, as he traded his in and got a poor price he didn't feel too guilty about it.

If you find an OEM system in good condition the clamps can be replaced but it involves cutting the pipes and re welding them together

m30dus

553 posts

211 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
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Not sure if it helps but I've got two complete OEM systems sitting in my container in Edinburgh. If your ever down this way from Aberdeen your welcome to take a look and make an offer for one of them? I've had them in there for nearly 4 years so would be glad to see the back of at least one of them :-)

istoo

Original Poster:

2,365 posts

228 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
m30dus said:
Not sure if it helps but I've got two complete OEM systems sitting in my container in Edinburgh. If your ever down this way from Aberdeen your welcome to take a look and make an offer for one of them? I've had them in there for nearly 4 years so would be glad to see the back of at least one of them :-)
pm sent!

gaz1234

5,233 posts

245 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
i believe peugeot clamps fit.

shim

2,051 posts

234 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
gaz1234 said:
i believe peugeot clamps fit.
yep


no need to replace exhaust as its stainless but clamps are cast and rot badly.

istoo

Original Poster:

2,365 posts

228 months

Wednesday 10th April 2013
quotequote all
OK this needs further inspection then.

NickXX

1,646 posts

244 months

Thursday 11th April 2013
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The ACS backbox retains the rasp.

M3Phil

1 posts

158 months

Thursday 11th April 2013
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I was told by my BMW specialist that these clamps should be replaced and they have a section that can be welded in so that the clamps can be removed.
Has anyone had this done?

istoo

Original Poster:

2,365 posts

228 months

Thursday 11th April 2013
quotequote all
update:
M3cutters has this one well covered.

The clamps holding the back box and the centre section together are in a terrible state. When you have a gander underneath initally assumed the exhaust is shot, right on the joint between the backbox and centre section. However it seems that 'may' not be the case. there are two 2.5in pipes to marry up around the clamp, one has a fluted end on the centre section with a straight piece on the opposing back box. The other pipe is straight with a fluted end on the backbox. My understanding is the clamps use the fluted end to seal/pull against. Thus, provided these flutes are still in place after removing the rusty clamps. Replacement clamps should be enough to seal it up again. Peugeot have clamps for a few quid which can replace this and seems this is tried and tested with the M3 cutters folks.

Although for a few quid more i can buy Stainless steel Vbands (£30)

which is what I will try out with the local garage first....

picture from M3cutters


If the flutes are hooped, as a failsafe I will purchase M30dus has a OEM catback system. and have that fitted instead.

Either way a very educational little thread (for me at least)

Slippydiff

16,133 posts

249 months

Thursday 11th April 2013
quotequote all
The OE clamps are available from your local BMW dealer (as are the bolts) however the material they're formed from is sintered (and thus cannot be welded)

The good thing is that the silencer is mounted very effectively on three very well engineered rubber/steel brackets, thus the clamps that have corroded so badly are not load bearing, they're only there to form a gas tight seal between the silencer and the two pipes.

Unfortunately, as can be seen in your photo, the stub on the silencer box has a swaged end (it's swaged after the flange has been slid over it during the manufacturing process)

I had two clamps laser cut out of 6mm mild steel plate (the OE clamps are at least twice as thick in section) similar to these :

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=743...

I then cut them in half and welded them back together (but floating on) the swaged ends of the silencer/pipes. The two pipes are close together, so getting the clamps in side by side is a tight squeeze.

You'll need the steel ring and gasket that forms the seal between the sections of pipe too.

istoo

Original Poster:

2,365 posts

228 months

Monday 22nd April 2013
quotequote all
I opted for the quick fix for now which was the peugeot clamps. Jack up the office rear, take off the wheel and you have good access.
Half the clamp was rotten already, i placed a cold chizel on it and gave it a test test tap before i was going to thump it and it fell into a million bits of rust. a few taps later and it all was off. The exhaust underneath is in good shape, a wee rub with some emery paper and its shiney. These clamps are not load bearing, so the work is actually really easy even for an ungifted mechanic like me it took all of 30 minutes to do both. I cleaned it up, liberal application of gungum, put on both clamps (make sure these are up and down, not side to side, as they side to side will come mighty close to the wheel. Ran car for 15 minutes, took for a blat and its survived a few 100 miles and 2 hours of knockhill quite happily!

Longer term the reply above is the best bet, makes complete sense when you see it in the flesh as well.

on the latter subject, my first knockhill experience in this and/or any RWD car. Decided to hold onto it for a bit longer!

m30dus, thanks for your help.


gaz1234

5,233 posts

245 months

Monday 22nd April 2013
quotequote all
istoo said:
I opted for the quick fix for now which was the peugeot clamps. Jack up the office rear, take off the wheel and you have good access.
Half the clamp was rotten already, i placed a cold chizel on it and gave it a test test tap before i was going to thump it and it fell into a million bits of rust. a few taps later and it all was off. The exhaust underneath is in good shape, a wee rub with some emery paper and its shiney. These clamps are not load bearing, so the work is actually really easy even for an ungifted mechanic like me it took all of 30 minutes to do both. I cleaned it up, liberal application of gungum, put on both clamps (make sure these are up and down, not side to side, as they side to side will come mighty close to the wheel. Ran car for 15 minutes, took for a blat and its survived a few 100 miles and 2 hours of knockhill quite happily!

Longer term the reply above is the best bet, makes complete sense when you see it in the flesh as well.
linky to exact clamps?
on the latter subject, my first knockhill experience in this and/or any RWD car. Decided to hold onto it for a bit longer!

m30dus, thanks for your help.

joema

2,741 posts

205 months

Monday 22nd April 2013
quotequote all
I have just gone for the pug clamps as well. Can't see them being a problem in the future if I'm honest....

gaz1234

5,233 posts

245 months

Monday 22nd April 2013
quotequote all
linky to pug clamps?

joema

2,741 posts

205 months

Monday 22nd April 2013
quotequote all
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Clamp-for-Peugeo...

One of the pipes has a donut type gasket. You need to retain that.

PaulRothwell

47 posts

236 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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Its now November 2014.... my E46M3 had the rusting clamps problem plus the BMW (and Quickfit) response that I needed to spend £1k plus to replace the exhaust....the Peugeot clamp answer is unsatisfactory but my local garage Lusardi Motors in London N1 (020 7254 2881) provided the answer...new clamps from BMW (one of which needs machining to fit) split in half and welded together once fitted over the flared ends of the exhaust. I now have oem standard fittings and all is now well ...

PaulRothwell

47 posts

236 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
quotequote all
Its now November 2014.... my E46M3 had the rusting clamps problem plus the BMW (and Quickfit) response that I needed to spend £1k plus to replace the exhaust....the Peugeot clamp answer is unsatisfactory but my local garage Lusardi Motors in London N1 (020 7254 2881) provided the answer...new clamps from BMW (one of which needs machining to fit) split in half and welded together once fitted over the flared ends of the exhaust. I now have oem standard fittings and all is now well ...

gaz1234

5,233 posts

245 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
quotequote all
I went titanium clamps.