BMW E36 M3 Convertible
Discussion
Looking for something a little more interesting to drive, but keep getting hints/guilt feelings that it should have 4 seats so that wife/son/dog can come along.
TBH I have always preferred the 2002/E30 models but the E36 seems to be relatively cheap at the moment and fits the bill. What goes wrong, what is right abot them and will I just look like an old fart poser or a gangsta drug dealer when I'm driving it...
Cheers
TBH I have always preferred the 2002/E30 models but the E36 seems to be relatively cheap at the moment and fits the bill. What goes wrong, what is right abot them and will I just look like an old fart poser or a gangsta drug dealer when I'm driving it...
Cheers
Do it, do it, do it...
I'm becoming a bit of a boring E36 M3 beard having lived with one for the last year or so. Well, two actually- A complete shed very briefly and then a decent one since last Feb.
Have a look at my garage- I've spent a lot on it but have a very usable, well-fettled car now. I wouldn't say those are typical costs, and there's nothing massively scary in there.
These have probably been posted before but I'd say my top tips are:
-Avoid SMG. The costs aren't massively scary these days because if it gives up then a manual conversion can be done for a grand plus.
-VANOS isn't really something to fear. Worst case scenario is that you pay Mr. Vanos £850 for him to fit an uprated recon unit, which I did to mine. Generally it's only the solenoids that fail, apart from some which go a bit noisy.
-Convertible roof is a pain in the arse with lots of sensors, but fairly easy to diagnose. I had loads of problems with mine simply refusing to open/close but eventually found it was just a loose microswitch in the boot lid. Likewise, replacement of fabric/window isn't a hugely scary job. I paid £300 for a new rear window and general refurb/re-tension and, touch wood, it's nearly perfect now.
-Personal one for me, but OEM really is the way to go with these now. I don't fall out with new suspension and the like (So long as it's not 'slammed') but if you see too many M badges and shiny bits then I'd avoid.
-Plenty of second hand/pattern parts available now so there are very few potentially scary bills. The ///M tax on some BMW parts does exist, but in the scheme of things nothing over the top.
-The 3 litre versus Evo debate is a weary one. I'd personally go with an Evo since they are generally newer, etc although if you are on a limited budget there are some advantages to the 3.0 like a stronger 5-speed gearbox and you're more likely to get a straight one at the low end of the market.
I think this covers some of my immediate thoughts. Basically you just have to go into buying them with your eyes open. Don't fear high-ish mileages, good history is the key. All the usual clues to a ragged car will be there, like mismatched ditchfinders etc.
They are an absolute hoot of a car. I test-drove a very nice E46 M3 cab the other day on behalf of a friend and it was great, but lacked some of the raw chuckability and to me wasn't worth 5 grand more than a fettled E36.
I'm becoming a bit of a boring E36 M3 beard having lived with one for the last year or so. Well, two actually- A complete shed very briefly and then a decent one since last Feb.
Have a look at my garage- I've spent a lot on it but have a very usable, well-fettled car now. I wouldn't say those are typical costs, and there's nothing massively scary in there.
These have probably been posted before but I'd say my top tips are:
-Avoid SMG. The costs aren't massively scary these days because if it gives up then a manual conversion can be done for a grand plus.
-VANOS isn't really something to fear. Worst case scenario is that you pay Mr. Vanos £850 for him to fit an uprated recon unit, which I did to mine. Generally it's only the solenoids that fail, apart from some which go a bit noisy.
-Convertible roof is a pain in the arse with lots of sensors, but fairly easy to diagnose. I had loads of problems with mine simply refusing to open/close but eventually found it was just a loose microswitch in the boot lid. Likewise, replacement of fabric/window isn't a hugely scary job. I paid £300 for a new rear window and general refurb/re-tension and, touch wood, it's nearly perfect now.
-Personal one for me, but OEM really is the way to go with these now. I don't fall out with new suspension and the like (So long as it's not 'slammed') but if you see too many M badges and shiny bits then I'd avoid.
-Plenty of second hand/pattern parts available now so there are very few potentially scary bills. The ///M tax on some BMW parts does exist, but in the scheme of things nothing over the top.
-The 3 litre versus Evo debate is a weary one. I'd personally go with an Evo since they are generally newer, etc although if you are on a limited budget there are some advantages to the 3.0 like a stronger 5-speed gearbox and you're more likely to get a straight one at the low end of the market.
I think this covers some of my immediate thoughts. Basically you just have to go into buying them with your eyes open. Don't fear high-ish mileages, good history is the key. All the usual clues to a ragged car will be there, like mismatched ditchfinders etc.
They are an absolute hoot of a car. I test-drove a very nice E46 M3 cab the other day on behalf of a friend and it was great, but lacked some of the raw chuckability and to me wasn't worth 5 grand more than a fettled E36.
I agree mostly with above.
Avoid SMG, I made the costly mistake of getting one. Its one of my biggest regrets. Its awful.
I much preferred the 3.2 evo but I know lot of people prefer the 3.0
My convertible roof operated fine however something was off so sometimes it would get stuck and need an extra shove.
Get one
Don't see many around these days actually.
Avoid SMG, I made the costly mistake of getting one. Its one of my biggest regrets. Its awful.
I much preferred the 3.2 evo but I know lot of people prefer the 3.0
My convertible roof operated fine however something was off so sometimes it would get stuck and need an extra shove.
Get one
Don't see many around these days actually.
carreauchompeur said:
-Avoid SMG. The costs aren't massively scary these days because if it gives up then a manual conversion can be done for a grand plus.
-VANOS isn't really something to fear. Worst case scenario is that you pay Mr. Vanos £850 for him to fit an uprated recon unit, which I did to mine. Generally it's only the solenoids that fail, apart from some which go a bit noisy.
-Convertible roof is a pain in the arse with lots of sensors, but fairly easy to diagnose.
-Plenty of second hand/pattern parts available now so there are very few potentially scary bills. The ///M tax on some BMW parts does exist, but in the scheme of things nothing over the top.
.
thanks for this, can I ask about the acronims-VANOS isn't really something to fear. Worst case scenario is that you pay Mr. Vanos £850 for him to fit an uprated recon unit, which I did to mine. Generally it's only the solenoids that fail, apart from some which go a bit noisy.
-Convertible roof is a pain in the arse with lots of sensors, but fairly easy to diagnose.
-Plenty of second hand/pattern parts available now so there are very few potentially scary bills. The ///M tax on some BMW parts does exist, but in the scheme of things nothing over the top.
.
SMG?
VANOS?
I come from a different age, where the hood was lifted up from the back (or dug out of the boot and hung over a frame rather than motors and stuff - do these get expensive?
My shopping list has been Chimaera (but wife says where do son & dog go, I could tell her) 944 cabrio, or Stag (discounted these today as to many rust traps and poor driving position)
She spotted an E36 or E30 convertible last week (she was not sure which it was) and said why not?
TBH I have had a 2002Tii & an E30 M3 Cecotto and loved them but always thought the "new" 3 series were souless and I think that stems from the 90's when every yuppy had one! And now every housing estate has rows of 3 series, not M3's mind you!
The 3 series should have room for son & dog beyond the age of 10 (son) too.
I just need convincing that at the age of 60, I won't look like some ponsy old tw*t or chav. (Stereotype or what!).
What are the running costs of a reasonable one?
Are home services a possibility or will it end up at a dealer to read computers and stuff?
these run on super unleaded and normal around low 20s fuel economy around town better on a run.you will find the 3.0 will fall in classic insurance mine was costing about 210 a year.there is not much you cant do yourself at home on these and computers you can get readers which will tell you most things .
If you have vanos problems, it's usually a ~£20 fix as the most common thing to happen is the solder cracks on a little PCB inside.
The solenoids were supplied with flying leads going to a small bit of PCB, and then the BMW wiring was soldered onto that.
All you need to do is resolder the wires, and fit some nice new bolts and a paper gasket.
The solenoids were supplied with flying leads going to a small bit of PCB, and then the BMW wiring was soldered onto that.
All you need to do is resolder the wires, and fit some nice new bolts and a paper gasket.
MikeM3Power said:
The SMG is woeful on the E36.
Manual all the way on the E36 M3, trust me.
E46 SMG II was a big improvement.
This. Manual all the way on the E36 M3, trust me.
E46 SMG II was a big improvement.
I owned a manual E36 M3 from new, the salesman let me try their SMG demonstrator after I got mine. It was utter s
t. I later had an E46 M3 with SMG which I loved. I've had my 3.2 coupe for over six years now and still love it.
Watch for rust on the rear arches.
Service intervals based on the indicator aren't a long as some cars (including the subsequent M3). I've not got my history to hand, but from memory even when doing enough motorway to average 28-30 MPG I didn't get more than 6-7k between services.
Suspension parts (inc bushes) may want replacing to keep the car sharp.
Rear brake pipes may want a wire brush and sealing.
I've heard of big end bearing failures. It's hard to know if these are entirely resultant of poor servicing and over-revving or if they happen on good cars too. Some people fit uprated rod bolts as a precaution. I've yet to do so.
Edit to add:
Have you driven one yet?
As you probably assumed, a cheap one could easily come with £1000+ of small things which need doing.
Watch for rust on the rear arches.
Service intervals based on the indicator aren't a long as some cars (including the subsequent M3). I've not got my history to hand, but from memory even when doing enough motorway to average 28-30 MPG I didn't get more than 6-7k between services.
Suspension parts (inc bushes) may want replacing to keep the car sharp.
Rear brake pipes may want a wire brush and sealing.
I've heard of big end bearing failures. It's hard to know if these are entirely resultant of poor servicing and over-revving or if they happen on good cars too. Some people fit uprated rod bolts as a precaution. I've yet to do so.
Edit to add:
Have you driven one yet?
As you probably assumed, a cheap one could easily come with £1000+ of small things which need doing.
taz devil said:
these run on super unleaded and normal around low 20s fuel economy around town better on a run.you will find the 3.0 will fall in classic insurance mine was costing about 210 a year.there is not much you cant do yourself at home on these and computers you can get readers which will tell you most things .
On the subject of fuel consumption, I filled up 10mls outside Dunkirk after touring round France and it got me home , which is 20mls past Newcastle.Quite pleased with that considering the cruising speed!
It's a 3.2 evo with the 6speed gearbox, 100mph is only 3500 revs.
Edited by twizellb on Thursday 13th June 14:42
Edited by twizellb on Friday 14th June 15:27
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