Z4M Roadster-advice req'd
Discussion
Thinking about getting a Z4M roadster and just got a couple of questions
1. What are service intervals
2. What is petrol consumption like, on driving spiritedly and also on say on a longish run
3. Having owned TVR's for several years, am use to a glorious sound track, what's the standard car sound like, and is there a good sports exhaust alternative readily available.
Finally, what are the " must check" items when looking at a potential car. Obviously a full service history with the early service done and the general things that you look for when buying any car, but do the Z4's have any particular issues.
Many thanks.
Any advice is much appreciated.
1. What are service intervals
2. What is petrol consumption like, on driving spiritedly and also on say on a longish run
3. Having owned TVR's for several years, am use to a glorious sound track, what's the standard car sound like, and is there a good sports exhaust alternative readily available.
Finally, what are the " must check" items when looking at a potential car. Obviously a full service history with the early service done and the general things that you look for when buying any car, but do the Z4's have any particular issues.
Many thanks.
Any advice is much appreciated.
Take a look here.
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/search.php?search_id...
Sevice intervals are determined by how hard you drive it. or 24months if it's a garage queen.
1200miles, Oil change. Essential it was done and on time.
10K Brake fluid and oil £150-200
20K Inspection 1 around £600-1200
20-30k Brake pads & Disk £1500. (They tend to all wear out at the same time, which was a bit of a shock)
30K Brake fluid and oil around £150-200
40k Inspection2 £800-1500
Tyres can last 50miles to 25k my first set lasted 24k with a couple of track days threwn in. £1000-1500 for a full set.
Lots of M owners change the oil every year, even if the car hardy moves. As I said these milagefigures are approximate as the light comes on a tells you when the next service is due depended on how hard the car is used.
Petrol consumption is around 19 mpg on a fun run out. Around 11 mpg on track. The good new is you can also easily get 30-34 mpg on a gentle, sunny day, roof down 60-70 mph motorway run. current Ave on mine is 20.9
Check rear springs.
Check engine strut brace welds.
Don't worry if you here the Vanos rattles, a little, between 2.5 & 3.5k rpm (after the engine is warm) They really do all do that. (Do worry if it rattles from cold.)
Only other common failure is the roof motor.
So that's all the bad news in one go.
Good news is. The cars generally very reliable. nothing other than routine servicing as above for me since I bought it 2.5 years ago.
Enjoy the search.
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/search.php?search_id...
Sevice intervals are determined by how hard you drive it. or 24months if it's a garage queen.
1200miles, Oil change. Essential it was done and on time.
10K Brake fluid and oil £150-200
20K Inspection 1 around £600-1200
20-30k Brake pads & Disk £1500. (They tend to all wear out at the same time, which was a bit of a shock)
30K Brake fluid and oil around £150-200
40k Inspection2 £800-1500
Tyres can last 50miles to 25k my first set lasted 24k with a couple of track days threwn in. £1000-1500 for a full set.
Lots of M owners change the oil every year, even if the car hardy moves. As I said these milagefigures are approximate as the light comes on a tells you when the next service is due depended on how hard the car is used.
Petrol consumption is around 19 mpg on a fun run out. Around 11 mpg on track. The good new is you can also easily get 30-34 mpg on a gentle, sunny day, roof down 60-70 mph motorway run. current Ave on mine is 20.9
Check rear springs.
Check engine strut brace welds.
Don't worry if you here the Vanos rattles, a little, between 2.5 & 3.5k rpm (after the engine is warm) They really do all do that. (Do worry if it rattles from cold.)
Only other common failure is the roof motor.
So that's all the bad news in one go.
Good news is. The cars generally very reliable. nothing other than routine servicing as above for me since I bought it 2.5 years ago.
Enjoy the search.
S6 ROR said:
Thinking about getting a Z4M roadster and just got a couple of questions
1. What are service intervals
2. What is petrol consumption like, on driving spiritedly and also on say on a longish run
3. Having owned TVR's for several years, am use to a glorious sound track, what's the standard car sound like, and is there a good sports exhaust alternative readily available.
Finally, what are the " must check" items when looking at a potential car. Obviously a full service history with the early service done and the general things that you look for when buying any car, but do the Z4's have any particular issues.
Many thanks.
Any advice is much appreciated.
I've got an M Coupe but someone with a roadster will no doubt be along shortly...1. What are service intervals
2. What is petrol consumption like, on driving spiritedly and also on say on a longish run
3. Having owned TVR's for several years, am use to a glorious sound track, what's the standard car sound like, and is there a good sports exhaust alternative readily available.
Finally, what are the " must check" items when looking at a potential car. Obviously a full service history with the early service done and the general things that you look for when buying any car, but do the Z4's have any particular issues.
Many thanks.
Any advice is much appreciated.
1. It's variable and depends on mileage but at least once every two years. Services are of different types too, from an oil service, to a full blown Inspection II.
2. Average for me is 24.5 mpg
. On good motorway run 30-32 is fairly easy and realistic to achieve; on a fast m way run expect 27-28. 3. Standard car sounds very nice IMO - lots of induction under acceleration and the trademark metallic rasp from the exhaust. Some nice pops and the occasional bang on the overrun too. Not loud though and not TVR loud - but there are plenty of aftermarket options. There's also a DIY option too.
Must check: running in oil service at ~1250 miles.
Great cars.
I could get 32mpg out of my roadster on a long run...
Did once manage to get down to a 12mpg average... But that was around the ring
Soundtrack won't compare to a tvr, but its a nice noise when you press on, and if you get a good aftermarket exhaust and induction you should be happy with it
All in all, excellent cars, mine didn't miss a beat in 45,000 miles... As said above, ensure the service history is complete including the 1200 mile running in service...
Did once manage to get down to a 12mpg average... But that was around the ring
Soundtrack won't compare to a tvr, but its a nice noise when you press on, and if you get a good aftermarket exhaust and induction you should be happy with it
All in all, excellent cars, mine didn't miss a beat in 45,000 miles... As said above, ensure the service history is complete including the 1200 mile running in service...
Agree with everything that's been said, apart from my fuel consumption was around 18mpg. The computer always said 24mpg. Highest consumption was on a twisty back road to the borders. 7mpg! Emptied the tank in 55minutes. 30mpg was the best I got on a motorway run.
Great car - very reliable. Only thing that broke in 18months was the drivers window mechanism, which apparently can be prevented by greasing if it starts to get noisy.
Other points worth mentioning are that the rear tyres only lasted 6000 miles. And the running in service can be done 500 miles either side of 1200 miles. It is crucial, as the oil used in the engine for the first 1200 miles is to wear the engine in properly (as modern oils are too protective). But if it isn't changed, it can drastically shorten the engine's life.
Would definitely have another one!
Great car - very reliable. Only thing that broke in 18months was the drivers window mechanism, which apparently can be prevented by greasing if it starts to get noisy.
Other points worth mentioning are that the rear tyres only lasted 6000 miles. And the running in service can be done 500 miles either side of 1200 miles. It is crucial, as the oil used in the engine for the first 1200 miles is to wear the engine in properly (as modern oils are too protective). But if it isn't changed, it can drastically shorten the engine's life.
Would definitely have another one!
S6 ROR said:
Thanks for the replies guys, what do you mean by the vanos rattles between 2.5 and 3.5k revs?
The Variable Valve Timing (variable Nockenwellensteuerung. Had a habit of failing on the early variants of this engine. Used on the M3 & the Z3M. The giveaway was that it sounded like a diesel when you started it up and it cost a fair wad to get it fixed. It was sorted for the Z4M engine. The engine does however still have a rattle from the VANOS system, between 2500 rpm and 3500 rpm. It shouldn't make a noise when it's cold. You can often hear it in the Roadster, roof down, once the engine is warm. Nothing to worry about.
Edited by BuzyG on Sunday 23 June 16:49
Will_S said:
Agree with everything that's been said, apart from my fuel consumption was around 18mpg.
Other points worth mentioning are that the rear tyres only lasted 6000 miles
I'm guessing the tyre wear rate and fuel consumption were directly proportional - and that was on the relatively useless OEM ContiSportContact M3s - or that the roadster is heavier on the tyres/fuel than my coupé (or that I'm a wuss who only drives at 8/10ths) ;-)Other points worth mentioning are that the rear tyres only lasted 6000 miles
Mine's averaging 27-ish MPG, but it's 90% motorway driving to work & back, with a couple of 20-50 lap Ring trips a year (keeping to a 9 minute BTG pace) and 1-2 track days (usually Oulton, Donington or Cadwell).
Tyres (Michelin PSS) are also lasting much longer than the Conti M3s, as on the same basis as the fuel consumption I'm getting 20k out of the rears and the fronts are on the original set at 33k (although now down to 3mm).
I would also add FWIW that, the car is a definite grower - I'm genuinely loving it more and more each time I drive it (in August it'll be a year since I traded It for my Chimaera 450). It's much more 'interesting' than the Cayman S I had (not as accomplished and not as comfortable (the Cayman had PASM), but much more fun, more of an event and it has bags of character). It's nowhere near as frustrating as my TVR, but almost has the same grin inducing straight line speed especially above 6k rpm, but it's so much better in the corners it's laughable and much quicker everywhere. The diff is magical (I'm just now really starting to get to grips with it), the engine is an absolute masterpiece - sensationally good - and the car as a whole is so well designed and executed that cross continent blats or whole day burns down to Cornwall are just so easy and achievable and eminently comfortable! 2 years between services, great build quality, brilliant seats and standard equipment are the icing on the cake.
Will_S said:
Agree with everything that's been said, apart from my fuel consumption was around 18mpg. The computer always said 24mpg. Highest consumption was on a twisty back road to the borders. 7mpg! Emptied the tank in 55minutes. 30mpg was the best I got on a motorway run.
Great car - very reliable. Only thing that broke in 18months was the drivers window mechanism, which apparently can be prevented by greasing if it starts to get noisy.
Other points worth mentioning are that the rear tyres only lasted 6000 miles. And the running in service can be done 500 miles either side of 1200 miles. It is crucial, as the oil used in the engine for the first 1200 miles is to wear the engine in properly (as modern oils are too protective). But if it isn't changed, it can drastically shorten the engine's life.
Would definitely have another one!
Great car - very reliable. Only thing that broke in 18months was the drivers window mechanism, which apparently can be prevented by greasing if it starts to get noisy.
Other points worth mentioning are that the rear tyres only lasted 6000 miles. And the running in service can be done 500 miles either side of 1200 miles. It is crucial, as the oil used in the engine for the first 1200 miles is to wear the engine in properly (as modern oils are too protective). But if it isn't changed, it can drastically shorten the engine's life.
Would definitely have another one!
still going well Edited by Herbs on Sunday 23 June 23:19
[quote=BuzyG]
Lots of useful stuff but the following are applicable in terms of costs:
Brake fluid every two years about £80-£100 on to the cost of a service at a dealer.
Inspection 1 around £600-£800
30k-40k Brake pads & Disk £700-£1000
Inspection2 £800ish
The good new is you can also easily get 30-34 mpg especially with cruise.
Check the glove box functions properly.
Look for signs of crash damage, ideally get the car up on a ramp.
Heated seats, wind deflector and DSP are nice to have.
BMW AUC cars don't work out much more expensive if you are going to get BMW warranty as two years can be had free of charge generally. Any private cars are eligble if they have full service history on a lapsed policy.
quote]
My car http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... excuse the plate
Sound with Hayward and Scott X-Pipe and back boxes.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=1015157945054...
Lots of useful stuff but the following are applicable in terms of costs:
Brake fluid every two years about £80-£100 on to the cost of a service at a dealer.
Inspection 1 around £600-£800
30k-40k Brake pads & Disk £700-£1000
Inspection2 £800ish
The good new is you can also easily get 30-34 mpg especially with cruise.
Check the glove box functions properly.
Look for signs of crash damage, ideally get the car up on a ramp.
Heated seats, wind deflector and DSP are nice to have.
BMW AUC cars don't work out much more expensive if you are going to get BMW warranty as two years can be had free of charge generally. Any private cars are eligble if they have full service history on a lapsed policy.
quote]
My car http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... excuse the plate
Sound with Hayward and Scott X-Pipe and back boxes.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=1015157945054...
Edited by Froomee on Monday 24th June 12:36
mmm-five said:
I'm guessing the tyre wear rate and fuel consumption were directly proportional - and that was on the relatively useless OEM ContiSportContact M3s - or that the roadster is heavier on the tyres/fuel than my coupé (or that I'm a wuss who only drives at 8/10ths) ;-)
Yeah, that's fair. It was for the weekends only, so had to enjoy it!Herbs said:
still going well Froomee said:
Lots of useful stuff but the following are applicable in terms of costs:
Brake fluid every two years about £80-£100 on to the cost of a service at a dealer.
Inspection 1 around £600-£800
30k-40k Brake pads & Disk £700-£1000
Inspection2 £800ish
The good new is you can also easily get 30-34 mpg especially with cruise.
Check the glove box functions properly.
Look for signs of crash damage, ideally get the car up on a ramp.
Heated seats, wind deflector and DSP are nice to have.
BMW AUC cars don't work out much more expensive if you are going to get BMW warranty as two years can be had free of charge generally. Any private cars are eligble if they have full service history on a lapsed policy.
Sounds like you got a better deal than me for Ins 1. Mine was £911 Brake fluid every two years about £80-£100 on to the cost of a service at a dealer.
Inspection 1 around £600-£800
30k-40k Brake pads & Disk £700-£1000
Inspection2 £800ish
The good new is you can also easily get 30-34 mpg especially with cruise.
Check the glove box functions properly.
Look for signs of crash damage, ideally get the car up on a ramp.
Heated seats, wind deflector and DSP are nice to have.
BMW AUC cars don't work out much more expensive if you are going to get BMW warranty as two years can be had free of charge generally. Any private cars are eligble if they have full service history on a lapsed policy.
Brakes replaced all round with OEM parts at 29K £1282. Did natrualy include brake fluid change, with that.
Agree 100% heated seats and wind deflector a must for top down fun. Espesialy in Mid February.
BuzyG said:
Sounds like you got a better deal than me for Ins 1. Mine was £911
Brakes replaced all round with OEM parts at 29K £1282. Did natrualy include brake fluid change, with that.
Got my I1 for about £700 a few years back.Brakes replaced all round with OEM parts at 29K £1282. Did natrualy include brake fluid change, with that.
I2 more recently was about the same price as I used MainDealerDiscount (list price was £1200 Merseyside/Lancashire/Cheshire).
Front discs can be had for about £180 each, rears for about £120 each - so £800 for discs, plus about £100 for pads - so you're looking at £900 + labour (a couple of hours)!
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