Replacing E39 M5 clutch - what else should I renew?
Discussion
I've noticed slip when accelerating hard above 3,000 rpm; engine revs soar but road speed stays the same. Not cool when half-way through an overtake! I assume this is a symptom of a failing clutch? My foot is nowhere near the clutch pedal when this happens; it's not me being sloppy with clutch/accelerator use.
Clutch has lasted 82k miles, so can't complain.
I'm going to have the clutch and flywheel replaced (with OEM parts), and was wondering if there's anything else I should get done at the same time to save on labour costs? How about the propshaft centre support bearing and giubo; are these made easier whilst the clutch/FW are out, or not? Any obscure bushes or gearbox bits?
Any advice appreciated, thanks.
Clutch has lasted 82k miles, so can't complain.
I'm going to have the clutch and flywheel replaced (with OEM parts), and was wondering if there's anything else I should get done at the same time to save on labour costs? How about the propshaft centre support bearing and giubo; are these made easier whilst the clutch/FW are out, or not? Any obscure bushes or gearbox bits?
Any advice appreciated, thanks.
Hereward said:
I've noticed slip when accelerating hard above 3,000 rpm; engine revs soar but road speed stays the same. Not cool when half-way through an overtake! I assume this is a symptom of a failing clutch? My foot is nowhere near the clutch pedal when this happens; it's not me being sloppy with clutch/accelerator use.
Clutch has lasted 82k miles, so can't complain.
I'm going to have the clutch and flywheel replaced (with OEM parts), and was wondering if there's anything else I should get done at the same time to save on labour costs? How about the propshaft centre support bearing and giubo; are these made easier whilst the clutch/FW are out, or not? Any obscure bushes or gearbox bits?
Any advice appreciated, thanks.
Replaced a lot of what follows when I got my M5, the problem is knowing what not to include when replacing the clutch! Clutch has lasted 82k miles, so can't complain.
I'm going to have the clutch and flywheel replaced (with OEM parts), and was wondering if there's anything else I should get done at the same time to save on labour costs? How about the propshaft centre support bearing and giubo; are these made easier whilst the clutch/FW are out, or not? Any obscure bushes or gearbox bits?
Any advice appreciated, thanks.
Firstly, don't buy your clutch kit and flywheel from a BMW dealer unless you can get a really hefty discount. The clutch components as fitted by BMW at the factory were all by LUK (visible LUK markings on my old original clutch) - even Sachs clutch components for the M5 are made by LUK. Much better prices are readily available out there on the aftermarket.
Rear main seal definitely worth replacing, even if it's not leaking.
The gearbox will be coming out so there's opportunity to replace a seal or two on it: numbers 7 & 8
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE92...
Well worth replacing #1 & #3 also.
With the gearbox out a rebuild of the gearshift linkage is simple & cheap: replace everything except: #1, #2, #4, #11, #15 & #16
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE92...
(If it hasn't been replaced already bush #14 will be utterly shot.)
Clutch slave cylinder worth swapping out + the crank sensor, too 'while you're in there'.
The spring, pivot and release lever (#5, #6, #7) with a very tiny dab of grease on the pivot:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE92...
(The release bearing should come as part of the clutch kit.)
Other stuff: guibo & propshaft centre bearing (including the strip of butyl to isolate it from the body + the centring sleeve part# 26117526611); both gearbox mounts (v.cheap); gearbox oil change (OE stuff costs a bloody fortune though), diff oil change.
Any leaking seals on the diff....? If so then now's the time!
Really, a lot depends on your short or long term plans for the car. If you might sell it on soon then a clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate & release bearing) + rear main seal alone might just do. The flywheel will need inspecting & may be OK and as it's a big ticket item there are savings to be made here.
My car's a keeper and feel all the work was worth it. The clutch action is now beautifully light (comparatively speaking, of course!). It was good before but there's a little less NVH from the drivetrain now, and the gearshift has gained more precision. The gearbox is still a little notchy when cold after the oil change, though - so little or no improvement. (Some claim that Royal Purple gear oil improves shifting.)
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