Self Service - what bits required?
Discussion
A mate and I are going to carry out an oil/filter change + hopefully change the gearbox and diff oil on our Mk1 1996 eunos 1.8.
Apart from engine oil, oil filter, diff oil and gearbox oil, what additional parts do we require to carry out our first ever attempt at a self-service? Do the sump plug/screws need replacing etc?
We will be using a combo of our haynes manual and youtube for the process of doing the work.
Apart from engine oil, oil filter, diff oil and gearbox oil, what additional parts do we require to carry out our first ever attempt at a self-service? Do the sump plug/screws need replacing etc?
We will be using a combo of our haynes manual and youtube for the process of doing the work.
If this is genuinely your first attempt at an oil change then good luck and fair play - we all had to start somewhere.
Make sure before you start that you have the necessary tools and that they fit! The amount of rounded off sump plugs I've come across over the years due to well intentioned amateurs...
And a big enough bowl for the oil. You might like to put a small dab of something like Wellseal on the plug threads when they go back in but other than that just don't overtighten them or the filter.
Just make sure you give the car a good run so as to warm up the oils, ticking over on the drive won't warm up the gearbox and diff'.
Have fun and you'll be dropping a V8 in it next...
Make sure before you start that you have the necessary tools and that they fit! The amount of rounded off sump plugs I've come across over the years due to well intentioned amateurs...
And a big enough bowl for the oil. You might like to put a small dab of something like Wellseal on the plug threads when they go back in but other than that just don't overtighten them or the filter.Just make sure you give the car a good run so as to warm up the oils, ticking over on the drive won't warm up the gearbox and diff'.
Have fun and you'll be dropping a V8 in it next...
You need to be able to get underneath the car SAFELY so unless you have access to a pit you'll need either car ramps and/or axle stands. Don't just rely on a jack.
You should fit a new washer to the sump plug to make sure there's no leaks and you'll probably be needing an oil filter removal tool, such as a chain wrench. The oil filter can be quite fiddly to reach and if it's really tight you might find you need an extension bar and flexible joint so that you can get some leverage on it.
I'm trying to remember the type of filler plug fitted to the gearbox. I think it's a square type so a normal hexagonal spanner won't fit. In any event, remember to slacken off the filler plugs on both the diff and gearbox before undoing the drain plugs. That way, you won't find yourself stuck with the oil drained out but unable to get the fresh oil in!
Filling the gear box can be fiddly - you might find that a large syringe is easier than trying to squeeze the oil out of the filler bottle.
Finally, make sure you have a good supply of rags/ absorbent paper to clear up the inevitable spillages!
Good luck!
You should fit a new washer to the sump plug to make sure there's no leaks and you'll probably be needing an oil filter removal tool, such as a chain wrench. The oil filter can be quite fiddly to reach and if it's really tight you might find you need an extension bar and flexible joint so that you can get some leverage on it.
I'm trying to remember the type of filler plug fitted to the gearbox. I think it's a square type so a normal hexagonal spanner won't fit. In any event, remember to slacken off the filler plugs on both the diff and gearbox before undoing the drain plugs. That way, you won't find yourself stuck with the oil drained out but unable to get the fresh oil in!
Filling the gear box can be fiddly - you might find that a large syringe is easier than trying to squeeze the oil out of the filler bottle.
Finally, make sure you have a good supply of rags/ absorbent paper to clear up the inevitable spillages!
Good luck!
One of these.Best thing ever for diff and gearbox changes.Unscrew lid, fill with appropriate oil, replace lid, squirt in oil via tube till it just trickles out.Job done.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500CC-OIL-SUCTION-GUN-Pl...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500CC-OIL-SUCTION-GUN-Pl...
snotrag said:
Oil filter - forget fancy tools, wrenches etc. A small square of sandpaper in your hand will give all the purchase you need.
I can also get my hand in from the top, but then I have slim forearms... YMMV!
Always did mine from above.A lot depends on who did it up last time as some people seem to think you need veins popping out of your head with regards to how tight you need to make them.I can also get my hand in from the top, but then I have slim forearms... YMMV!
I have been lucky as mine all came off using nothing more than my hand! None of the tools I have for oil filters would be much use.I have strap, chain and jaw types.
I do mine from above. I really struggled with the current car the first time I did it and ended up with a chain wrench, a u/j and enough extension bars so that I could get the handle clear of the engine bay to apply enough leverage. It looked like a ridiculous level of overkill just to slacken off an oil filter but the only other thing I could think of was to hammer a screwdriver through it and use that as a lever. I did that many years ago on an MG Midget but it's an all or nothing solution!
gdaybruce said:
ended up with a chain wrench, a u/j and enough extension bars so that I could get the handle clear of the engine bay to apply enough leverage.
Exactly. Before trying tools, just try the square of sandpaper in your hand, you can get a surprising amount of grip onto even an oilfy filter.And even if the last ape to fit one leaves you needing tools, remember when you refit the new one, only do it up hand tight.
Real easy car to work on. Without a pit/lift the gearbox/diff oil is a right b
h!
Halfords do an oil filter wrench that is bloody brilliant for the first time you do it. After that, your changes should be frequent enough and when you put it back on not too tight so you can undo it by hand from there.
Access to the oil filter is no big deal from above.
Buy air filter from Mazda (I found aftermarket ones didn't fit in my 1996, 1.8) and they're not overly expensive. Also worth grabbing a replacement sump-plug washer from there also.
Oil filter and spark plugs from euro car parts for me.
Good luck!
h!Halfords do an oil filter wrench that is bloody brilliant for the first time you do it. After that, your changes should be frequent enough and when you put it back on not too tight so you can undo it by hand from there.
Access to the oil filter is no big deal from above.
Buy air filter from Mazda (I found aftermarket ones didn't fit in my 1996, 1.8) and they're not overly expensive. Also worth grabbing a replacement sump-plug washer from there also.
Oil filter and spark plugs from euro car parts for me.
Good luck!
If you are not used to doing up nuts/bolts,then a torque wrench is a good addition to any tool kit. You don't want to strip the threads in the sump as a result of too much force,and too loose is probably worse!
Just had to replace two wheel studs on my sisters car,as a result of the local tyre fitter using a pneumatic gun to excessively tighten said nuts.
Bloody cowboys
Just had to replace two wheel studs on my sisters car,as a result of the local tyre fitter using a pneumatic gun to excessively tighten said nuts.
Bloody cowboys
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