Discussion
I know theres been hundreds of "what mx5?" topics etc, but i've been doing searches around here and can't really find much to help.
I've had my clio for 3 years now and its my first car, but i want to change for an mx5. Im looking for an NA, UK spec as the imports are £1000 more to insure and i can't justify that.
I want to ideally spend under £1500, and ive found plenty for around that price range, but most are 1.6s.
Am i better going for the 1.8? or is the 1.6 very similar? So far all i've really found is that the 1.6 is more revvy etc. But i've not actually seen any comparisons between the two engines and which is better.
Any help would be much appreciated.
I've had my clio for 3 years now and its my first car, but i want to change for an mx5. Im looking for an NA, UK spec as the imports are £1000 more to insure and i can't justify that.
I want to ideally spend under £1500, and ive found plenty for around that price range, but most are 1.6s.
Am i better going for the 1.8? or is the 1.6 very similar? So far all i've really found is that the 1.6 is more revvy etc. But i've not actually seen any comparisons between the two engines and which is better.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Say it ain't so?That one looks good, funnily enough, it's a British Racing Green one im looking at currently, 1.8, £1600 with 78k on the clock.
Got a link to the for sale ad for yours? it'll probably be too far away from me though.
I'm more tempted by the 1.8 for the extra power, although the lower insurance and running costs of the 1.6 is making me indecisive. Its a 40bhp difference between the two isnt it?
Got a link to the for sale ad for yours? it'll probably be too far away from me though.
I'm more tempted by the 1.8 for the extra power, although the lower insurance and running costs of the 1.6 is making me indecisive. Its a 40bhp difference between the two isnt it?
stormrider2 said:
I'm more tempted by the 1.8 for the extra power, although the lower insurance and running costs of the 1.6 is making me indecisive. Its a 40bhp difference between the two isnt it?
From '94 (maybe?) onwards UK 1.6's were detuned to 90bhp to create a bigger gap to the 130bhp 1.8, 1.6's before this were 115bhp so not much difference in power - the 1.8 has a bit more low-down torque and the 1.6 is a bit revvier but you'd be hard pressed to actually call one better than the other in an early Mk1.Cheers. Ill look into the early 1.6s as well then.
The car will be my daily drive, im assuming in winter, although i'll be colder, it's still fairly easy to live with?i'll probably get a hard top for it which would be used for winter.
A few people i've spoken to say the cars are a handful when in the wet? I don't drive like an idiot so i'm guessing i won't have any problems?
The car will be my daily drive, im assuming in winter, although i'll be colder, it's still fairly easy to live with?i'll probably get a hard top for it which would be used for winter.
A few people i've spoken to say the cars are a handful when in the wet? I don't drive like an idiot so i'm guessing i won't have any problems?
They're only a handful with crap tyres or an incompetent driver - provided the alignment is right an MX5 is about the most progressive, controllable car on the limit I've driven. Keep your inputs smooth and build you confidence up gradually if you're unfamiliar with RWD and you'll be fine.
^^^^^ This.
Keep an eye on the tyre tread depth on the rears; if/when they are substantially worse than the fronts, swap them around. Good grip on the front + poor on the rears = oversteer city. Just be aware that if you boot it out of a wet corner/roundabout, the rear may step-out some - eventually you will learn to enjoy this aspect of driving a well-balanced RWD car
Keep an eye on the tyre tread depth on the rears; if/when they are substantially worse than the fronts, swap them around. Good grip on the front + poor on the rears = oversteer city. Just be aware that if you boot it out of a wet corner/roundabout, the rear may step-out some - eventually you will learn to enjoy this aspect of driving a well-balanced RWD car
You also won't be colder in winter - far from it! The heater is strong enough to cook your feet and as the cabin area is so small it warms up really quickly so warmth really isn't a problem. Alternatively, wear a warm coat, hat, gloves & scarf and put the top down all year round - winter is a great time for top-down motoring, I prefer it to summer driving 
With Mk1s the plastic rear window can take some clearing, especially without AC but it's only just behind your head so a quick wipe with a rag is quick & easy. Just don't be tempted to scrape ice/knock snow off it because it gets pretty fragile at those temps
With Mk1s the plastic rear window can take some clearing, especially without AC but it's only just behind your head so a quick wipe with a rag is quick & easy. Just don't be tempted to scrape ice/knock snow off it because it gets pretty fragile at those temps
MX-5 Lazza said:
With Mk1s the plastic rear window can take some clearing, especially without AC but it's only just behind your head so a quick wipe with a rag is quick & easy. Just don't be tempted to scrape ice/knock snow off it because it gets pretty fragile at those temps
I am fortunate enough to have off-street parking and deploy old towels to cover windscreen and rear screen when a frost is looking likely.
Also, never drop the hood with the screen in-place, unzip it first if you want to avoid cracking it..
Gizmo! said:
Either mine is set up very badly (possible) or people are ridiculously precious about oversteer. Some days I can't get mine to slide even when I'm trying 
Works for me if I'm really trying on a trackday; the lack of diff results in mucho grande smoke off the inside rear tyre on the exit of hairpins Shortly after I got my MX5 and before I'd gotten around to replacing the shonky rubber it came on, I was on the way to Silverstone in the pishing rain and had quite a large unintended 'moment' coming off a roundabout and on to the entry of a M1 slip road; I got it back together without too much fishtailing....
I swapped the worn rears with the OK fronts ASAP and then changed to F1 GSD3's on 15" = much grippier than the econo-shyyte tyres the car came with.I don't find mine to get the tail out too often either. It's the 1.8iS with the LSD, but I don't think that makes a whole heap of difference!
OP, I say go for the 1.6 and start from there - I wish I had started with a 1.6 if I'm honest. The fuel consumption might not have been such a shock and still would have gone some lol
OP, I say go for the 1.6 and start from there - I wish I had started with a 1.6 if I'm honest. The fuel consumption might not have been such a shock and still would have gone some lol
these are the kind of replies i was hoping for, thanks guys. Car might have to be put off due to the clio needing a service and a smashed iphone screen needing repaired 
. But i've decided that 1.6 or 1.8 doesnt matter, if its a good example at a decent price, im gonna go for it. Going to find out insurance differences though.
I've not driven the 1.6 but I don't imagine the fuel economy is much better. You will spend most if your time revving every last drop of power from it (or else you're doing it wrong!) and as a result will probably see an average of 25mpg!
Mine's supposed to have an LSD but to be blunt somebody could I have removed it and I wouldn't know! To get the back end out you have to provoke it IMHO - easy on roundabouts in the wet or ice, or if your rears are getting a touch low...
Mine's supposed to have an LSD but to be blunt somebody could I have removed it and I wouldn't know! To get the back end out you have to provoke it IMHO - easy on roundabouts in the wet or ice, or if your rears are getting a touch low...
stormrider2 said:
That one looks good, funnily enough, it's a British Racing Green one im looking at currently, 1.8, £1600 with 78k on the clock.
Got a link to the for sale ad for yours? it'll probably be too far away from me though.
I'm more tempted by the 1.8 for the extra power, although the lower insurance and running costs of the 1.6 is making me indecisive. Its a 40bhp difference between the two isnt it?
Yes and no.Got a link to the for sale ad for yours? it'll probably be too far away from me though.
I'm more tempted by the 1.8 for the extra power, although the lower insurance and running costs of the 1.6 is making me indecisive. Its a 40bhp difference between the two isnt it?
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure but I believe it goes:
1989: 1.6 released with about 115bhp
1994-ish: 1.8 released with 130bhp.
Mazda say "can't be having that, people won't pay the extra to have a 1.8"
1.6 is then detuned down to 90bhp in some markets (including the UK)
So if you have a eunos 1.6 or an early UK 1.6 you'll have close to what the 1.8 makes.
I have an early import. I was looking for a 1.8 just as you are. Bought my 1.6 and can honestly say I don't regret it. For the sake of 15 bhp You get so much more choice at a lower budget.
Want the little green fella to go to a good home .IME the only difference between the early "115bhp" 1.6 and the 1.8 is that sometimes you'll have to drop a gear on a hill in the 1.6 where the 1.8 would happily carry the same gear in exactly the same circumstances.
The 1.8 is a better base for mods from what I've heard due to a beefier clutch, and more chassis bracing on the later cars - very little in it if you're keeping things standard though.
On good tyres it's almost embarrassingly unstickable. Even on rubbish tyres they're easy to rescue from any mishaps, it's just they're more likely to break loose. Watch for lack of ABS on many, particularly early cars; brakes are powerful and easy to lock if you're not smooth on them.
Oh, and don't buy one with any rust. (There are lots out there with rot in the sills, arches, etc.) It can be dealt with, but getting it done properly in a way which ensures it won't come back will probably cost far, far more than what you'd save in purchase price. This sometimes makes the JDM Eunos variants a better bet with Japan's unsalted roads, although you can lose out on stiffer insurance premiums with those.
(JDM cars often have air conditioning, nice extras, and a lower purchase price to make up for it though.)
The 1.8 is a better base for mods from what I've heard due to a beefier clutch, and more chassis bracing on the later cars - very little in it if you're keeping things standard though.
On good tyres it's almost embarrassingly unstickable. Even on rubbish tyres they're easy to rescue from any mishaps, it's just they're more likely to break loose. Watch for lack of ABS on many, particularly early cars; brakes are powerful and easy to lock if you're not smooth on them.
Oh, and don't buy one with any rust. (There are lots out there with rot in the sills, arches, etc.) It can be dealt with, but getting it done properly in a way which ensures it won't come back will probably cost far, far more than what you'd save in purchase price. This sometimes makes the JDM Eunos variants a better bet with Japan's unsalted roads, although you can lose out on stiffer insurance premiums with those.
(JDM cars often have air conditioning, nice extras, and a lower purchase price to make up for it though.)
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