Horl sharpener
Discussion
Glad you like it Mini
Did you get the 3000 and 6000 grit upgrade discs? If not I can thoroughly recommend it for that razor sharp (literally) edge....


If you've not already found it there's a 'Sharpening Thread' (not just dedicated to knives) here...........
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you've not already found it there's a 'Sharpening Thread' (not just dedicated to knives) here...........
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
UTH said:
My brother’s got one of these. Tempted..
There are cheaper ones about but I can't vouch for them. But I would say make sure the discs are replaceable and they offer finer grits as well. There is one I found but can't remember it's name. I'll have a look.Edit: found it............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LavaRose-Sharpener-Magnet...
and finer discs..............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-LavaRose-6000...
But as I said I can't vouch for it and if you search on Youtube for 'lavarose roller sharpener' they have a couple of videos and the engineering is not as a good as Horl.
Edited by dickymint on Saturday 13th January 22:34
dickymint said:
Edit: found it............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LavaRose-Sharpener-Magnet...
and finer discs..............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-LavaRose-6000...
£40 on Temu and similar ones including bases with a 12 degree angle on Ali express just a heads up for anyone looking at this https://www.amazon.co.uk/LavaRose-Sharpener-Magnet...
and finer discs..............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-LavaRose-6000...
I've just bought a Horl 3 with the extra whetstone disc too. The results are massively disappointing but reading this thread makes me think I must be doing something wrong. They are nowhere near sharp enough to shave hair with like the photo above (not that this is my plan).
Reading the first post gives me hope it is just my technique but it is fairly idiot proof isn't it? The knives are all Wusthof, so decent.
Any pointers?
Reading the first post gives me hope it is just my technique but it is fairly idiot proof isn't it? The knives are all Wusthof, so decent.
Any pointers?
What angle are you sharpening at? Wusthof vary, old stuff 20 degrees, modern European 15 and Asian 10.
You may well find that if your knives have been "sharpened" a variety of ways over the years they need regrinding to a consistent angle before you sharpen.
Also, again, varies buit some Wusthof will be harder steel than others and may take more time to sort.
You may well find that if your knives have been "sharpened" a variety of ways over the years they need regrinding to a consistent angle before you sharpen.
Also, again, varies buit some Wusthof will be harder steel than others and may take more time to sort.
I’ve gone for 15°. I’ve tried sharpening two, one chefs knife (old, maybe 28 years!) and one much newer carving knife (both Wusthof).
Should I just give it a good 10 mins with the diamond? I tried the marker pen trick and removed the line.
It must be me as there are plenty of reports of razor sharp using the device.
Should I just give it a good 10 mins with the diamond? I tried the marker pen trick and removed the line.
It must be me as there are plenty of reports of razor sharp using the device.
Edited by Arranguez on Sunday 12th April 23:30
Edited by Arranguez on Sunday 12th April 23:31
Arranguez said:
I've just bought a Horl 3 with the extra whetstone disc too. The results are massively disappointing but reading this thread makes me think I must be doing something wrong. They are nowhere near sharp enough to shave hair with like the photo above (not that this is my plan).
Reading the first post gives me hope it is just my technique but it is fairly idiot proof isn't it? The knives are all Wusthof, so decent.
Any pointers?
I found similar. Horl 3 and a suite of 5-7yr old Global Knives. They are sharp enough after 10-15 'rolls' with all 4 discs (got the 3000 and 6000) on both sides, held at 15 degrees......but not staggeringly sharp.Reading the first post gives me hope it is just my technique but it is fairly idiot proof isn't it? The knives are all Wusthof, so decent.
Any pointers?
Based on the above, maybe it needs to be 10 degrees?
TheHeadhunter said:
Arranguez said:
I've just bought a Horl 3 with the extra whetstone disc too. The results are massively disappointing but reading this thread makes me think I must be doing something wrong. They are nowhere near sharp enough to shave hair with like the photo above (not that this is my plan).
Reading the first post gives me hope it is just my technique but it is fairly idiot proof isn't it? The knives are all Wusthof, so decent.
Any pointers?
I found similar. Horl 3 and a suite of 5-7yr old Global Knives. They are sharp enough after 10-15 'rolls' with all 4 discs (got the 3000 and 6000) on both sides, held at 15 degrees......but not staggeringly sharp.Reading the first post gives me hope it is just my technique but it is fairly idiot proof isn't it? The knives are all Wusthof, so decent.
Any pointers?
Based on the above, maybe it needs to be 10 degrees?
Take a look at this guy and the rest of his videos.................
His latest view on the Horl
I still use my Horl and would still recommend it because it really is simple to use to maintain the same angle on all my kitchen knives but you need to understand the theory behind it. You need a strop to remove the burr and a magnifying glass to see you have a burr - there's a difference between a burr and a rolled edge by the way. Also for more regular sharpening I use the Shapel diamond stone he also highly rates........
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharpal-Dual-Grit-Diamond...
dickymint said:
I tend to use these at work, fraction of the cost and do a more than adequate job for a kitchen knife.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Diamond-Sharpening-Sharpe...
Key thing is both sides of the blade are the same angle. Mark up with the pen, couple of wipes each side then zoom in with your phone camera to compare. Really important the apex has no pen or your arent actually shapening it. You are just thinning the blade towards what is probably a flat or "blunt" apex.
Once you reach the point both sides are evenly ground then your can refine it with a higher grit stone. The final sharpen will leave a burr which you can remove with a few wipes each side and by drawing the blade gently over a soft wooden block or edge of a chopping board. This will normally leave a black line. At this point the blade should be adequately sharp for normal use and if you look after it and hone on a ceramic rod or stone regularly it wont need sharpening again for some time.
Once you reach the point both sides are evenly ground then your can refine it with a higher grit stone. The final sharpen will leave a burr which you can remove with a few wipes each side and by drawing the blade gently over a soft wooden block or edge of a chopping board. This will normally leave a black line. At this point the blade should be adequately sharp for normal use and if you look after it and hone on a ceramic rod or stone regularly it wont need sharpening again for some time.
paua said:
I've found, that once I have the angles corrected, that I can keep my knives ( damasteel) in good condition using a (scanpan) diamond rod. The wheel doesn't need frequent use.
On hard steel with a fine edge try a ceramic honing rod, step up from even a fine steel and light years ahead of a diamond rod. 21TonyK said:
paua said:
I've found, that once I have the angles corrected, that I can keep my knives ( damasteel) in good condition using a (scanpan) diamond rod. The wheel doesn't need frequent use.
On hard steel with a fine edge try a ceramic honing rod, step up from even a fine steel and light years ahead of a diamond rod. He has done a follow up to this making a bit of an apology re the reference to Gordon Ramsey
However it still holds true (in my mind at least) steel ceramic and diamond rods don't (and excuse the pun) cut it you've already linked to your diamond stones and you'd be much better off using one of them as it's just as quick?dickymint said:
The 'old school' steel rods (that many butchers still use) are only fit for the bin as they cannot remove metal!
It's not their job to remove metal. They are for honing. Honing is not the same as sharpening.Sharpening
What it does: Removes metal to create a new sharp edge
When you need it: When the blade is dull and won’t cut well
Tools used: Whetstones, electric sharpeners, grinding wheels
Result: A new, thinner edge is formed
Think of sharpening as repairing or rebuilding the edge.
Honing
What it does: Realigns the existing edge without removing much metal
When you need it: When the knife feels less sharp but isn’t actually dull
Tools used: Honing steel / rod (the long metal stick chefs use)
Result: Edge is straightened, making the knife cut better again
Think of honing as maintenance or tuning the edge.
unzippy said:
dickymint said:
The 'old school' steel rods (that many butchers still use) are only fit for the bin as they cannot remove metal!
It's not their job to remove metal. They are for honing. Honing is not the same as sharpening.Sharpening
What it does: Removes metal to create a new sharp edge
When you need it: When the blade is dull and won t cut well
Tools used: Whetstones, electric sharpeners, grinding wheels
Result: A new, thinner edge is formed
Think of sharpening as repairing or rebuilding the edge.
Honing
What it does: Realigns the existing edge without removing much metal
When you need it: When the knife feels less sharp but isn t actually dull
Tools used: Honing steel / rod (the long metal stick chefs use)
Result: Edge is straightened, making the knife cut better again
Think of honing as maintenance or tuning the edge.
but the videos I've posted suggest that a few strokes with a diamond stone is as quick or quicker and actually cures the cause.Gassing Station | Food, Drink & Restaurants | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



