Parts spec

[Verde]

I was wondering if someone might have some info at hand that will save me from having to do some disassembly and measurement.
There is some play in the steering u-joint in my GTR, and I would like to upgrade the joint to a ball-bearing design that is a bit 'tighter' if possible. To do so, I need to get the specs on the factory u-joint (where the steering wheel shaft meets the shaft that connects to the rack). I believe that I need:
diameter of rod(s):
number of 'teeth' or 'grooves' in the shaft (into which the u-joint fits):
length of u-joint:
Or, a pointer to where I can find it on-line (I've done some considerable searching).
BTW, any comments re how to reduce play in the steering system would be appreciate. With a purely mechanical system such as that on the car, it would seem like the amount of 'play' in the wheel should be approximately zero.
Thanks in advance,
V

[pilbeam_mp62]

Verde said:

I need to get the specs on the factory u-joint

Why not just call the factory ?

[Storer]

There is another thread running where we discuss steering "play".

There are many things to check before you try modifying things.

Is the rack secure - add a M10 washer between the clamps and then do it up tight.
Wheel bearings tight - 300 to 320lbsft
Play in any ball joints.
Can you adjust the rack using the big nut and Allen head in the middle - not too tight as it will make the steering stiff and possibly bind!
Are all the bolts on steering column joints tight?

Try all of the above before you modify the U/J's as you may go to all that work and find the problem is elsewhere.


Paul

[F.C.]

Storer said:

Is the rack secure - add a M10 washer between the clamps and then do it up tight.
Paul

M10 washers come in different gauges and types of metal, I think you ought to be a little more specific here,
like washer thickness/gauge and material (aluminium will deform differently to mild steel or stailess for instance.

[Storer]

F.C. said:

M10 washers come in different gauges and types of metal, I think you ought to be a little more specific here,
like washer thickness/gauge and material (aluminium will deform differently to mild steel or stailess for instance.

I used 1.43mm thick stainless steel M8 (sorry not M10) washers.


Paul

[ezakimak]

http://woodwardsteering.com/images/steering%20univ...

[Verde]

Thanks. I'll start checking. But I believe that I observed that the play occurred in the U-joint itself. But with this info, I'll recheck everything.
V

[Verde]

Most excellent. Thank you very much.
And am I the only one who has observed such an issue? Is this commonplace for such a deign?
V

ezakimak said:

http://woodwardsteering.com/images/steering%20univ...

[Verde]

I've declared the U.S. Labor Day holiday as the official end of the driving season (not at all true here in CA of course) but a good justification to take the GTR off the road if I have to.
So, on the recommendation to start with a washer, I am presuming it is to be added on one side of the other in where the bolt runs through the 'u' of the u-joint? This does seem to be where the slop is coming from. There is a small bit of movement in the shaft leading in to the rack (i.e. in the rack) itself but there is far greater play in the u joint.
But does anyone have the exact spec of the u joint so I could just replace it?
Thx,
V

F.C. said:

M10 washers come in different gauges and types of metal, I think you ought to be a little more specific here,
like washer thickness/gauge and material (aluminium will deform differently to mild steel or stailess for instance.