Discussion
Evans is fine if you can/want to run at higher than normal temps, They (Evans) say 3-7 degrees hotter.
What they don't tell you is that it is highly flammable.
It may prevent localised boiling at hot spots but if you have these then you should address you engine build / cooling system.
water has the most efficient heat transfer of all .........PERIOD.
In reality if it were of any real benefit OEM manufacturers would fit it as standard. IMO
What they don't tell you is that it is highly flammable.
It may prevent localised boiling at hot spots but if you have these then you should address you engine build / cooling system.
water has the most efficient heat transfer of all .........PERIOD.
In reality if it were of any real benefit OEM manufacturers would fit it as standard. IMO
BogBeast said:
Used it for years in my Sport, drained it out a few times and put it back in again. Works well for me.
never realised is was flammable - going to go home tonight and to see if I can set fire to some spare stuff I have.
There is no fnever realised is was flammable - going to go home tonight and to see if I can set fire to some spare stuff I have.
king way that I putting flammable antifreeze in the car following Friday's trackday coolant leak. It's bad enough having near 80 litres bordering either side of the engine!Anyway most of the heat seems to come from the exhausts. The ls7 engine normally runs at 89c even on a tack day, so I'm not sure what problem I would be trying to solve. Heat soak from the exhaust is currently my biggest problem.
macgtech said:
Hi Paul,
We saw an 8-10 degree C drop in running temps by switching from Mobil 1 to Joe Gibbs XP3 oil - might be a better way to go. Tested back to back on the same day.
Jonny
be careful using that stuff. might have moved on in recent years but id never ever use mobile 1 in an engine again, however much recommended.We saw an 8-10 degree C drop in running temps by switching from Mobil 1 to Joe Gibbs XP3 oil - might be a better way to go. Tested back to back on the same day.
Jonny
the tests we carried out were 8 oils all in the same engine, 8 sets of shells and 8 pistons, same conditions.
we found mobile 1 the worst for wear...oil didn't cling to parts and the scoring on first start up, massive, leaving scoring on the skirts of the pistons. great when warm, thinner than water when hot.
however you do gain horsepower, 7 hp over the rest of the oils in a 1340cc race bike, yet at the cost of wear..
as said might have improved now as data was 10 years ago.
V8Dom said:
be careful using that stuff. might have moved on in recent years but id never ever use mobile 1 in an engine again, however much recommended.
the tests we carried out were 8 oils all in the same engine, 8 sets of shells and 8 pistons, same conditions.
we found mobile 1 the worst for wear...oil didn't cling to parts and the scoring on first start up, massive, leaving scoring on the skirts of the pistons. great when warm, thinner than water when hot.
however you do gain horsepower, 7 hp over the rest of the oils in a 1340cc race bike, yet at the cost of wear..
as said might have improved now as data was 10 years ago.
To balance that, we ran Mobil 1 oil (even when sponsored by a different oil company) because we would strip the engines in the race cars for a service and find that there was little to no wear on the bearings, absolutely no stuffing on the piston skirts and the rings still the same as when they were put in. granted, this is after 15 hours of running, but 100% of that running was flat out. no gentle pootling.the tests we carried out were 8 oils all in the same engine, 8 sets of shells and 8 pistons, same conditions.
we found mobile 1 the worst for wear...oil didn't cling to parts and the scoring on first start up, massive, leaving scoring on the skirts of the pistons. great when warm, thinner than water when hot.
however you do gain horsepower, 7 hp over the rest of the oils in a 1340cc race bike, yet at the cost of wear..
as said might have improved now as data was 10 years ago.
This was in turbo single seaters and n/a single seaters, so not a road car, but the engines were road car based and of similar materials to the ls engines.
In all fairness, these days I would be surprised if there was a "named" oil that performed poorly, but i would still go Mobil 1 with my own cars (and I do).
tjlees said:
BogBeast said:
Used it for years in my Sport, drained it out a few times and put it back in again. Works well for me.
never realised is was flammable - going to go home tonight and to see if I can set fire to some spare stuff I have.
There is no fnever realised is was flammable - going to go home tonight and to see if I can set fire to some spare stuff I have.
king way that I putting flammable antifreeze in the car following Friday's trackday coolant leak. It's bad enough having near 80 litres bordering either side of the engine!Anyway most of the heat seems to come from the exhausts. The ls7 engine normally runs at 89c even on a tack day, so I'm not sure what problem I would be trying to solve. Heat soak from the exhaust is currently my biggest problem.
5paulmv said:
Hi Tim its heat soak I'm fighting with were I live we have a lot off traffic and iff I get caught in it the temprature goes through the roof soon as I hit 15 mph air pushes the heat out and all is spot on the other option I'm looking at is using fan xtraction off heat from under the clam iff I have the car on tick over on the drive with no clam on heat gets away and no issues with temperatures any one else running fans under clam ?
The car will quite happily sit and the engine will run at 89c, however if you go for a spirited drive, the car sometimes struggles to lower the temp back to 89c when you leave it standing. Are you running with uprated radiator fans? Have you heat shielded the exhaust and directed the heat upwards? Have you cam coated (or similar) your exhaust? I have yet to coat the exhaust. Hopefully this will resolve any remaining heat soak problems I have under the clam.My exhausts are Zircotec coated. I am not running 700hp, nearer 600 NA.
The air box is gold foil covered too and I have no issues with my custom alloy rad keeping all cool. Air intake temps seldom exceed 30 deg C as the air box is sealed to engine heat.
It stands to reason that the hotter the air entering the engine the warmer it will be on exit!
Don't bother with engine bay fans until you have coated the exhaust IMO.
Paul
The air box is gold foil covered too and I have no issues with my custom alloy rad keeping all cool. Air intake temps seldom exceed 30 deg C as the air box is sealed to engine heat.
It stands to reason that the hotter the air entering the engine the warmer it will be on exit!
Don't bother with engine bay fans until you have coated the exhaust IMO.
Paul
Maybe worth chatting to the autobionics boys http://www.autobionics.co.uk/ or Charles Dunn to see if they can help with the overheating problem
Ultima Chat | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff