Fuel Shut Off Valve

[Swiss_Toni]

Does anyone have a good solution or idea for a fuel shut off solenoid valve?

I'm looking for something simple, 12 VDC, compact, good flow rate, quite robust.

I'll be using -6 lines and fitting (use of adapters is expected).

It's for fuel shut depending on which tank is being used.

Thanks

[Steve_D]

Swiss_Toni said:

Does anyone have a good solution or idea for a fuel shut off solenoid valve?

I'm looking for something simple, 12 VDC, compact, good flow rate, quite robust.

I'll be using -6 lines and fitting (use of adapters is expected).

It's for fuel shut depending on which tank is being used.

Thanks

Sorry I don't have an answer only a question.
Where in the system are you planing to use this and why?

Steve

[ROWDYRENAULT]

Throw the idea of using the tanks independently in the nearest trash can. connect the tanks with a cross over pipe, an inch diameter pipe will work well. pull fuel off of one side, return fuel from the pressure regulator on the other. No surge tank simply mount the pressure pump intake lower than the tank. Done. Do I suggest this to our friend that does serious racing and may need the last drop of fuel, NO, but for a street car that does 20 minute lap sessions a couple of times a year all I can say is 4 years 20,000 miles no problems. Also doing it this way you only need one fuel quantity sensor in one tank. Lee

[Swiss_Toni]

Hi Chaps,

This the way my system is set up, it works well, is reliable (touch wood).

All I wish to do is replace the tired looking inline shut off valves (though still works perfectly well).

I not really interested in redesigning it.

[F.C.]

ROWDYRENAULT said:

Throw the idea of using the tanks independently in the nearest trash can. connect the tanks with a cross over pipe, an inch diameter pipe will work well. pull fuel off of one side, return fuel from the pressure regulator on the other. No surge tank simply mount the pressure pump intake lower than the tank. Done. Do I suggest this to our friend that does serious racing and may need the last drop of fuel, NO, but for a street car that does 20 minute lap sessions a couple of times a year all I can say is 4 years 20,000 miles no problems. Also doing it this way you only need one fuel quantity sensor in one tank. Lee

You're right my tanks are joined at the bottom in the same way but return to both (only because the Pollack valve was removed and I had two returns), much simpler and by design more reliable.
To the O.P. what you need is on this page (probably).
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/fuel-pumps-f...

[ROWDYRENAULT]

Yesterday was a long day and I stated what my GTR has in it now. If I was building a new GTR I would install in-tank pumps with integrated pressure regulators and filters in each tank and they would supply the fuel rail through a Y. I would still join the tanks with a crossover pipe. With the plastic lines and pickups available you would be able to draw out almost every drop of fuel in both tanks. A return line is not necessary for this system, Whatever excess fuel that the pumps discharge is released right back into the tanks. This would make for the cleanest fuel system available. Least amount of parts, fittings and headaches. For anyone who thinks that this system will not work take a look at the new Camaros and Corvettes plus most of the rest of new cars. Lee

[dandare]

ROWDYRENAULT said:

Yesterday was a long day and I stated what my GTR has in it now. If I was building a new GTR I would install in-tank pumps with integrated pressure regulators and filters in each tank and they would supply the fuel rail through a Y. I would still join the tanks with a crossover pipe. With the plastic lines and pickups available you would be able to draw out almost every drop of fuel in both tanks. A return line is not necessary for this system, Whatever excess fuel that the pumps discharge is released right back into the tanks. This would make for the cleanest fuel system available. Least amount of parts, fittings and headaches. For anyone who thinks that this system will not work take a look at the new Camaros and Corvettes plus most of the rest of new cars. Lee

+1 for in-tank pumps. They are more reliable (used in production cars), we know the Corvette's ones are up to the job, and they are probably cheaper than the external ones. The factory should offer this simpler solution.

[Swiss_Toni]

That sort of what I had in mind.

Though with -6 the bore need to be 10mm to match the hose ID. It also need to have replaceable fittings so that -6 to whatever adapter can be installed.

It also looks a bit "clunky" size wise, but definitely on the right track.

[ROWDYRENAULT]

Toni: Sorry I don't get your concern here. The pumps set in the tank with the regulator and filter there is a single -6 male fitting coming out of each tank. the line from each tank joins together in a 3 way -6 y from there the single dash -6 line goes to the non return fuel rail. End 0 story. Yes you will need to develop a access panel in the tank big enough to service the pump or filter. If it was me I would cut a panel on one side that eliminated the fuel quantity indicator fitting all together on the other tank the fuel quantity fitting would be part of the removable panel. Hope that makes sense. If you do it this way It would be great if you showed some progress pictures when you are done. Lee

[UltimaCH]

dandare said:

+1 for in-tank pumps. They are more reliable (used in production cars), we know the Corvette's ones are up to the job, and they are probably cheaper than the external ones. The factory should offer this simpler solution.

+1 also for in-tanks pumps. It makes for less external pipe work, safer and cleaner installation also. Probably less heat soak from the engine and boiling fuel problems.

[Swiss_Toni]

Hi Lee, my last post was out if sequence.

I'm with you, pump in tank is the best way forward.

[Storer]

My pump (low pressure) is in the tank. Fitted down the fuel sender pipe on one tank.

Fills swirl pot. From swirl pot to HP pump then into fuel rail. From rail into regulator then back to swirl pot and finally back to tank. Tanks are linked. Filter in bottom of tank and fine after HP pump.

Simples!

I could make it simpler but would start with one central tank.


Paul

[Swiss_Toni]

I found a picture of what I have installed now. Again it works perfectly well I just "want" something a bit more "motorsport" that I can put on -6 fittings.

[Steve_D]

Is this a low pressure system with a pump from each tank?
If so then you could replace your valves with one way flap valves
http://www.aeroflowperformance.com/catalog/index/v...

Steve

[dandare]

Steve_D said:

Is this a low pressure system with a pump from each tank?
If so then you could replace your valves with one way flap valves
http://www.aeroflowperformance.com/catalog/index/v...

Steve

What's the difference between a one-way flap valve and a check valve? I thought they were the same thing.

[Swiss_Toni]

Hey Steve you may be on to something

The 2 low pressure (LP) pumps are external of the tank and are switched independently.

The fuel solenoid valves are in the RETURN line. So the LP pump that is running feeds the swirl pot and the solenoid valves then direct the return back to the tank that has the pump running.

If two check valves are on the pressure side of the pumps (the go into a Y) when 1 pump is running it will close the opposite tank check valve.

On the return side (from swirl pot) how do you stop it from overflowing the one tank that is not being used.

Taking this further, option B, if there is no check valve and both LP pumps run then in theory with both pumps work at the same flow rate (they're the same pump installed at the same time) then it "should" feed evenly from both tanks. Again how do you make sure the return (from the swirl pot) doesn't overflow one or the other tank in case the flow isn't a 100% the same?

I like the idea as it uses mechanical valves which are always going to be more reliable than a electrically operated system AND I think I have a couple of check valves in my hose and fitting stock.

[Steve_D]

Swiss_Toni said:

Hey Steve you may be on to something

The 2 low pressure (LP) pumps are external of the tank and are switched independently.

The fuel solenoid valves are in the RETURN line. So the LP pump that is running feeds the swirl pot and the solenoid valves then direct the return back to the tank that has the pump running.

If two check valves are on the pressure side of the pumps (the go into a Y) when 1 pump is running it will close the opposite tank check valve.

On the return side (from swirl pot) how do you stop it from overflowing the one tank that is not being used?

Taking this further, option B, if there is no check valve and both LP pumps run then in theory with both pumps work at the same flow rate (they're the same pump installed at the same time) then it "should" feed evenly from both tanks. Again how do you make sure the return (from the swirl pot) doesn't overflow one or the other tank in case the flow isn't a 100% the same?

I like the idea as it uses mechanical valves which are always going to be more reliable than a electrically operated system AND I think I have a couple of check valves in my hose and fitting stock.

As you say just tee the two supplies into your pot with flap valves in each line.
The pumps are self regulating at about 6psi so in principle they don't need a return to the tank (they never did when they were used to supply a carb). I say in principle they don't need a return but without one any air in the system will be trapped in the pot. To solve this run a return but put a restrictor in the line so that just a dribble passes along with any air. I've done this on mine by turning an ali rod so it is a slide fit inside a -6 hose fitting.

Dan
The flap valves referred to are just mechanical one way whereas the others Tony has are solenoid.

Steve