Modifying an old school amp?
Modifying an old school amp?
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Discussion

Andy_sx

Original Poster:

2,410 posts

229 months

Monday 4th February 2013
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Afternoon All.

Although I like my stereo equipment, I don't have the budget to go and buy all the tech I would love, so am living on hand me downs.

I have an old Technics amp (SU-Z200) and the speaer terminals are giving up the ghost and not clamping / connecting to the speaker wire. I can intermitently get a signal from them, but when I put the amp back into place the connection is gone.

While I know what I want, and could potentially do it myself, the cost in getting the bits (new connectors, soldering iron etc) may work out more expncive than paying someone who knows what they are doing.

Is there anyone in Kent that could help, or recomend someone that could? My thinking is replacing the current connectors (jam the wire in, then twist 90 degrees) with new ones (modifying the case if needs be) to ones that you would find on the speakers (threaded pin with a hole in the middle, put wire in and screw the top down)

I dont want to go too mad, have just moved but will only be there until August when I move abroad, and everything goes into storage for a few years, but would like to keep hold of it as it was my Dad's, so used to listen to it loads as a kid, and it still works pretty well now, especially for my requirements.

Sorry for the long, and not very technoligically post

delmatt

506 posts

214 months

Tuesday 5th February 2013
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I know people on PH are often slated for not actually answering the question asked but I am going to do the same I am afraid.

If this is the Technics amp I am thinking of its an eighties slimline one with slider volume controls etc. You could spend some money on it but you would get a far better amp at a car boot sale or gumtree for way less than the cost of getting this fixed. I have picked up numerous Denon PMA 250S or similar for less than ten quid. (almost all of them work fine as well)

I know this has some sentimental value but its audio value is pretty low I am afraid.

OldSkoolRS

7,084 posts

202 months

Tuesday 5th February 2013
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I have to confess the thread title attracted my interest for some reason...

I'm not near Kent, but if you don't get any more local offers and can find your way over to Berkshire I'd be willing to have a look at it for you (no charge), purely on the grounds of it having sentimental value. I used to work building and repairing amplifiers for the MOD and can solder, etc so would likely be able to convert the speaker connectors to some other type. I'm just thinking something like maybe removing the existing connectors and soldering on replacements if something similar could be found, or perhaps soldering on 'flying leads' to 'chocolate block' type connectors so you can connect your speaker cables to that when back home. Either this or solder the speaker cables directly to the amp.

Anyway, bare it in mind if you can't find something local.

delmatt

506 posts

214 months

Tuesday 5th February 2013
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That sounds like a fantastic kind offer from Oldskool! You cant beat that for a suggestion I dont think!

TonyRPH

13,472 posts

191 months

Tuesday 5th February 2013
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OP - I did this very thing to my SU-V4X.

IIRC there was a little filing to open the holes up a bit - and some hot melt glue to keep it all nicely aligned after tightening up.

Here's some pics for encouragement smile






Andy_sx

Original Poster:

2,410 posts

229 months

Thursday 7th February 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies gents, had a feeling after posting that it may have not had much response if any.

Delmatt, that is correct, it is old, not that powerful, nor does it have more than 2 channels for the speakers. But I still like it for some strange reason :s Ideally I would have a much more modern system, hooked into the tv so that I can have the tv and dvd player in surround sound aswell as the games consoles, but that would mean a decent level of investment and replacing everything I already have (which I have paid little for, amp and speakers were free, TV was a bargin (ex rental rented by my parents, bought for £50 of the rental company because it was over 2 years old)DVD and surround sound free for helping someone move who decided to replace their whole system because they could... its all crap by todays standard, but free crap is better than expencive crap! biggrin Plus I am saving every penny I can at the moment due to moving to Shanghai in August, and the kit wont be coming with me, so just sat in storage for 2 - unkown years.

Tony, that is pretty much exactly what I am looking to do, thank you kind sir!

Oldskool, what a gent, thank you very much! That was similar to my thinking, remove what is there (pictured below) and replacing with something along the lines of the pic below that, but happy to look at any other plausible options to get the thing working consistently again.As you can see, the right hand side is the one that works best but even when i moved the amp to take the pics, all bar 1 cable came out due to the connectors not clamping any more.



OldSkoolRS

7,084 posts

202 months

Thursday 7th February 2013
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I think you might have a problem using the particular items at the bottom of your picture as being metal,they will short against the case of the amp. However, I'm sure something along those lines could be found with a plastic insulator. I'll have a look on Maplins and Amazon to see if I can find a link to something that woulddo the job.

OldSkoolRS

7,084 posts

202 months

Thursday 7th February 2013
quotequote all
I found these options on the Maplin website:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/cables-and-connectors/conn...


TonyRPH

13,472 posts

191 months

Thursday 7th February 2013
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I used these

They fitted the best, as the holes left by the original terminals are quite large.


trez93

3 posts

70 months

Thursday 28th May 2020
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I need to bump this topic up since I'm facing the exact problem right now.

OP & Tony - the UK company links you'll posted are broken. Can anyone tell me what those connectors are called?

markiii

4,204 posts

217 months

trez93

3 posts

70 months

Thursday 28th May 2020
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markiii said:
Perfection! Thank you so. much!! smilesmilesmile

Miserablegit

4,393 posts

132 months

Monday 1st June 2020
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I’ve recently used these as my utter stupidity snapped a floorstander’s terminals...They might need extra insulation if going through metal (I can’t recall if there was any insulation in the part that goes through the panel


thebraketester

15,539 posts

161 months

Saturday 25th July 2020
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TonyRPH said:
OP - I did this very thing to my SU-V4X.

IIRC there was a little filing to open the holes up a bit - and some hot melt glue to keep it all nicely aligned after tightening up.

Here's some pics for encouragement smile





Just goes to show the broad scope of PH.

I have just acquired my dads SU-V4X and I am wanting to do the same modification as the OEM terminals are pitiful, and this thread showed up on google search..


Easy job Tony?

TonyRPH

13,472 posts

191 months

Saturday 25th July 2020
quotequote all
thebraketester said:
Just goes to show the broad scope of PH.

I have just acquired my dads SU-V4X and I am wanting to do the same modification as the OEM terminals are pitiful, and this thread showed up on google search..


Easy job Tony?
It wasn't too bad - just requires a fair bit of care, as you need to enlarge (or rather from memory, elongate) the existing holes.

And then there's the attaching of the cables to the new sockets.

I vaguely recall that the back panel can be separated from the amp to gain better access - although there are still other cables attached etc.

Anyway - take a methodical approach, take pictures / make notes of where the various cables go and you should be fine.

Just be warned though - this amp uses output ICs specific to Technics and they are no longer available - so if you get it wrong you'll be left with a doorstop....

It's a nice amp though, I remember it sounding pretty good.

You can download a service manual here - but you need to sign up though.

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics...


thebraketester

15,539 posts

161 months

Sunday 26th July 2020
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Thanks. Will get it open and take a look.

RichB

55,363 posts

307 months

Sunday 26th July 2020
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trez93 said:
I need to bump this topic up since I'm facing the exact problem right now.
Glad you did that because I have the same issue with my 1986 Technics Class AA amp. smile

TonyRPH

13,472 posts

191 months

Monday 27th July 2020
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For the benefit of those wondering which connectors to use.

These are known as "4mm binding posts".

Please don't use the all metal ones pictured above - there's a risk of short circuits when not using insulated posts.

You can buy the binding posts I used from Amazon here

For those wanting the service manual, I have made it available for download here


Edited by TonyRPH on Monday 27th July 08:34

TypeR

1,190 posts

262 months

Tuesday 28th July 2020
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I hope nobody minds me taking a 7 year old thread on a bit of a drift!
I too am using old kit, my amp is a NAD 3020. I'd like to add some sort of bluetooth adapter to it so I can hook my phone and TV up instead of using a an aux/rca affair.



Any suggestions gratefully received.


thebraketester

15,539 posts

161 months

Tuesday 28th July 2020
quotequote all
TonyRPH said:
For the benefit of those wondering which connectors to use.

These are known as "4mm binding posts".

Please don't use the all metal ones pictured above - there's a risk of short circuits when not using insulated posts.

You can buy the binding posts I used from Amazon here

For those wanting the service manual, I have made it available for download here


Edited by TonyRPH on Monday 27th July 08:34
Actually I didn't end up having to change the posts as the OEM ones accepted my thickish wires.

All set up with a SL-DL1... sounds lovely.