Help - dribble oil tank union!
Discussion
I ve got a dribble. Not surprising at my age but that s another story .
But so has my tank, from the outlet. It seems like it s coming from the mating surface from the big nut like thing and the huge metal washer it s screwed in against, or even possibly between said washer and the tank body itself
Questions: does the huge nut like union have a left hand thread? I tried a tentative undo (anti clockwise) and can t get the bugger to shift. Am I likely to knacker the moulded in fitting in the tank if I turn too hard / the wrong way?
Thought I d ask before I get the stilson on it .
TIA Tim
But so has my tank, from the outlet. It seems like it s coming from the mating surface from the big nut like thing and the huge metal washer it s screwed in against, or even possibly between said washer and the tank body itself
Questions: does the huge nut like union have a left hand thread? I tried a tentative undo (anti clockwise) and can t get the bugger to shift. Am I likely to knacker the moulded in fitting in the tank if I turn too hard / the wrong way?
Thought I d ask before I get the stilson on it .
TIA Tim
Edited by schmokin1 on Wednesday 10th September 15:49
AdamV12V said:
schmokin1 said:
I
Questions: does the huge nut like union have a left hand thread? I tried a tentative undo (clockwise) and can t get the bugger to shift.
Surely a normal thread would be turned anti-clockwise to unscrew?Questions: does the huge nut like union have a left hand thread? I tried a tentative undo (clockwise) and can t get the bugger to shift.
GAjon said:
That looks like the seal has deteriorated.
I would be tempted to drain it down and replace the seal.
If you can t drain it , put a bucket until it s run down, then replace it.
I wouldn t try and force it and risk loosing the lot.
Ok, it is drained down, but how do I get this apart? Just unscrew it with extreme prejudice, or is that going to spin the internal fitting?I would be tempted to drain it down and replace the seal.
If you can t drain it , put a bucket until it s run down, then replace it.
I wouldn t try and force it and risk loosing the lot.
schmokin1 said:
Ok, it is drained down, but how do I get this apart? Just unscrew it with extreme prejudice, or is that going to spin the internal fitting?
Hard to tell from the pic, but that looks like a union on the tee, so split it there to start with, try not to put any strain on the tank, get the pipes out of the way and asses what you’ve got into the tank.GAjon said:
Hard to tell from the pic, but that looks like a union on the tee, so split it there to start with, try not to put any strain on the tank, get the pipes out of the way and asses what you ve got into the tank.
The blue arrowed fitting comes apart no problem. Are you suggesting I grasp the big nut like fitting on the left and unscrew the green arrowed male fitting that screws into this?
Does the oil tank have a manufacturer’s name on it?
Hopefully it does. I would then contact the manufacturer to enquire how the outlet connection is made into the tank.
I wouldn’t want to put too much pressure on the large nut, because as you’re aware, if the complete threaded section starts to rotate, that’s a bigger problem…
Hopefully it does. I would then contact the manufacturer to enquire how the outlet connection is made into the tank.
I wouldn’t want to put too much pressure on the large nut, because as you’re aware, if the complete threaded section starts to rotate, that’s a bigger problem…
Brinyan said:
Does the oil tank have a manufacturer s name on it?
Hopefully it does. I would then contact the manufacturer to enquire how the outlet connection is made into the tank.
I wouldn t want to put too much pressure on the large nut, because as you re aware, if the complete threaded section starts to rotate, that s a bigger problem
It’s a QSS tank - unfortunately they went bust a few years back.Hopefully it does. I would then contact the manufacturer to enquire how the outlet connection is made into the tank.
I wouldn t want to put too much pressure on the large nut, because as you re aware, if the complete threaded section starts to rotate, that s a bigger problem
My slight concern would be that looks like a factory-fitted boss, with a straight coupler attached. They're usually 1" BSP, so normal thread, but are usually also gooped-up with oil-resistant sealant. I'd be worried about damaging that further as there looks to be litte-to-no space to get a grip on the brass-coloured part and stop it from turning.
I'd also go for getting someone in to look at that.
The other thing is that tank looks like it's sitting on blocks of wood? hopefully a temporary thing while working on it.
As a temporary stopgap, ordinary bar soap will stop minor leaks. Wash it down with brake clean to get rid of the excess oil then smear some on.
Stuff like CT1 won't work longterm, kerosene is effective at dissolving all sorts of stuff.
I'd also go for getting someone in to look at that.
The other thing is that tank looks like it's sitting on blocks of wood? hopefully a temporary thing while working on it.
As a temporary stopgap, ordinary bar soap will stop minor leaks. Wash it down with brake clean to get rid of the excess oil then smear some on.
Stuff like CT1 won't work longterm, kerosene is effective at dissolving all sorts of stuff.
I saw the blocks of wood and wondered if the tank is not supported properly?
If it's designed to be on a flat platform, anything else will stress it and it may fail.
The plumbing also has a lot of leverage on the tank fitting.
Oil is a serious business when it leaks.
I would suggest having it dismantled and check for cracks in the tank around the outlet.
A new bunded tank is cheaper than a leak.
It may of course just need correct assembly with a new o ring and/or tank fitting.
Do not rely on magic snot.
If it's designed to be on a flat platform, anything else will stress it and it may fail.
The plumbing also has a lot of leverage on the tank fitting.
Oil is a serious business when it leaks.
I would suggest having it dismantled and check for cracks in the tank around the outlet.
A new bunded tank is cheaper than a leak.
It may of course just need correct assembly with a new o ring and/or tank fitting.
Do not rely on magic snot.
shtu said:
My slight concern would be that looks like a factory-fitted boss, with a straight coupler attached. They're usually 1" BSP, so normal thread, but are usually also gooped-up with oil-resistant sealant. I'd be worried about damaging that further as there looks to be litte-to-no space to get a grip on the brass-coloured part and stop it from turning.
I'd also go for getting someone in to look at that.
The other thing is that tank looks like it's sitting on blocks of wood? hopefully a temporary thing while working on it.
As a temporary stopgap, ordinary bar soap will stop minor leaks. Wash it down with brake clean to get rid of the excess oil then smear some on.
Stuff like CT1 won't work longterm, kerosene is effective at dissolving all sorts of stuff.
Ok thanks. The tank is only on wood as it’s virtually empty and I wanted to be sure the outlet was uncovered by the dregs inside, so I tilted and propped it.I'd also go for getting someone in to look at that.
The other thing is that tank looks like it's sitting on blocks of wood? hopefully a temporary thing while working on it.
As a temporary stopgap, ordinary bar soap will stop minor leaks. Wash it down with brake clean to get rid of the excess oil then smear some on.
Stuff like CT1 won't work longterm, kerosene is effective at dissolving all sorts of stuff.
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