Replacing summerhouse roof covering

[Escort3500]

We’re getting tired of replacing the felt roof on our summerhouse every few years when it starts to swell and leak (despite careful application). It’s a shallow mono-pitch construction of T&G boards with the felt wrapped over the edges and closed with 4x1 fascia’s.

So we’re looking for an alternative that’s more durable and weatherproof. Is EDPM still the go-to solution, or have things moved on and are there other options that are now better? Also, how easy is it for a (reasonable) DIYer to undertake?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

[NDA]

I laid cedar tiles (shingles) on top of a failing felt roof on a pool house a few years ago - it worked very well... lasts forever.

[Escort3500]

NDA said:

I laid cedar tiles (shingles) on top of a failing felt roof on a pool house a few years ago - it worked very well... lasts forever.

Thanks. What pitch was it?

[OutInTheShed]

I looked at a house with cedar shingles on a garden office/studio.
They were as rotten as the tory party.
About 20 years old I think.

[NDA]

Escort3500 said:

NDA said:

I laid cedar tiles (shingles) on top of a failing felt roof on a pool house a few years ago - it worked very well... lasts forever.

Thanks. What pitch was it?

I don't know the answer to that other than saying it was a traditional garden shed type of pitch - whatever that might be.

I have cedar shingles on my house as it happens - a 14th Century house that was once thatched. The shingles are about 30 years old at this point - the north facing side is almost as new, the south facing side are curling slightly, but still in excellent condition.

[Huzzah]

I'm thinking of Onduline sheets nailed over the top of a felt covered pent roof.

It's only a shed so the aesthetic doesn't matter too much.

[OutInTheShed]

Escort3500 said:

We re getting tired of replacing the felt roof on our summerhouse every few years when it starts to swell and leak (despite careful application). It s a shallow mono-pitch construction of T&G boards with the felt wrapped over the edges and closed with 4x1 fascia s.

So we re looking for an alternative that s more durable and weatherproof. Is EDPM still the go-to solution, or have things moved on and are there other options that are now better? Also, how easy is it for a (reasonable) DIYer to undertake?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Decent felt on a sound substrate should last 15 to 20 years.
If you're not doing felt right, rubber will probably fail for you too!

All roofing needs the right stuff underneath it and the right details.

T&G boards moving under the felt could be the problem?

Full sun can reduce the light of felt, it's also going to make a black rubber roof hot.

You can use rubber, felt GRP, wood, thatch or slate. Steel profile can be bought with an insulated backing.
A world of choice, but a proper job is more than just the outer skin.

My next shed may be 90% roofed with solar panels.

[Escort3500]

OutInTheShed said:

Escort3500 said:

We re getting tired of replacing the felt roof on our summerhouse every few years when it starts to swell and leak (despite careful application). It s a shallow mono-pitch construction of T&G boards with the felt wrapped over the edges and closed with 4x1 fascia s.

So we re looking for an alternative that s more durable and weatherproof. Is EDPM still the go-to solution, or have things moved on and are there other options that are now better? Also, how easy is it for a (reasonable) DIYer to undertake?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Decent felt on a sound substrate should last 15 to 20 years.
If you're not doing felt right, rubber will probably fail for you too!

All roofing needs the right stuff underneath it and the right details.

T&G boards moving under the felt could be the problem?

Full sun can reduce the light of felt, it's also going to make a black rubber roof hot.

You can use rubber, felt GRP, wood, thatch or slate. Steel profile can be bought with an insulated backing.
A world of choice, but a proper job is more than just the outer skin.

My next shed may be 90% roofed with solar panels.

Thanks OITS (and others who’ve commented).

I’ve a pal who made our 6m x 3m workshop which has an insulated, profiled steel sheet roof, so I’ll sound him out.

[Simpo Two]

NDA said:

I laid cedar tiles (shingles) on top of a failing felt roof on a pool house a few years ago - it worked very well... lasts forever.

I'm a fan of cedar shingles but how long they last is dependent on angle. Vertically, almost for ever. But not great on a shallow pitched roof IMHO. Also, you won't see them up there so it's a bit of a waste I think. Save them for where they can be enjoyed

[Landlubber]

You could always try the Falklands thatch.

[DKL]

I have a shed which I struggle to keep watertight. The roof pitch is shallow and that's the issue. Felt failed quickly, onduline helped but that does get waterlogged in the end and then the water pools and it leaks. I went to metal sheet roofing and that is better but as the fixing holes are in the valleys not on the peaks (as per onduline) I still have to keep sealing the holes most summers to stop it leaking the following winter. Don't have a shallow pitch!

[OutInTheShed]

DKL said:

I have a shed which I struggle to keep watertight. The roof pitch is shallow and that's the issue. Felt failed quickly, onduline helped but that does get waterlogged in the end and then the water pools and it leaks. I went to metal sheet roofing and that is better but as the fixing holes are in the valleys not on the peaks (as per onduline) I still have to keep sealing the holes most summers to stop it leaking the following winter. Don't have a shallow pitch!

Anything can be messed up by being installed wrong!

Shallow pitch needs to be accurate to avoid pooling.
You need the structure not to move.
Profile roofing needs to have the fasteners on the peaks generally.

[Simpo Two]

OutInTheShed said:

Profile roofing needs to have the fasteners on the peaks generally.

Strikes me that if the holes are in the valleys, turn it the other way up... or am I missing something?

[alfabeat]

My garden office has a shallow-pitched roof and is covered in the felt hexagonal shingles. They have been on for 15 years and are still fine (never had a leak).

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/katepa...

Our garage is also covered in them (steeper pitch) for 10 years, and still going well.

Are you using very cheap (thin felt) or fitting it incorrectly...?

[Escort3500]

alfabeat said:

My garden office has a shallow-pitched roof and is covered in the felt hexagonal shingles. They have been on for 15 years and are still fine (never had a leak).

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/katepa...

Our garage is also covered in them (steeper pitch) for 10 years, and still going well.

Are you using very cheap (thin felt) or fitting it incorrectly...?

The building came with thin/cheap felt, which lasted only about 18 months. I’ve replaced it at least twice with thicker, better quality felt laid in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, but it’s only done about three/four years before leaking. Are your hex shingles fixed with adhesive or nailed down?

[DKL]

Simpo Two said:

Strikes me that if the holes are in the valleys, turn it the other way up... or am I missing something?

There 's definitely a "right way up" and this puts the fixings in the valleys. Seems to be the way for metal roofing

[OutInTheShed]

DKL said:

Simpo Two said:

Strikes me that if the holes are in the valleys, turn it the other way up... or am I missing something?

There 's definitely a "right way up" and this puts the fixings in the valleys. Seems to be the way for metal roofing

I had one of those flat pack steel sheds like this, although the roof had a reasonable pitch.
It works OK if you use the right fasteners, and screw them down hard enough.
Flange-head screws with rubber washers are available fro Screwfix etc.
A wide-headed screw with a little gasket made from a scrap of 'flashband' also works.

For a really shallow pitch roof, GRP would be my favourite, but then I have 45 years experience of using/mending/breaking/bodging with fibreglass.

One problem with flat/low pitch roofs is that sooner or later someone will stand on it, or store something on it, so the roof needs to be tough.

[Swfc1889]

DKL said:

There 's definitely a "right way up" and this puts the fixings in the valleys. Seems to be the way for metal roofing

Metal Roofing yes if you are using the proper TEK screws, but bitumen corrugated needs fixing on the peaks.