Washing machine engr question
Discussion
I have a Beko WM7267 washing machine whose interference filter has blown. The filter is a MIFLEX 250/16 with an internal resistor value of 470kohm. I can fit a new one myself but most of the MIFLEX 250/16 like for like replacements are still 250/16s but have an internal resistor value of 680kohm.
Does it matter which one I get?
The question arises because of the two grey output wires that attach to the top. The newer 470kohm models come with a keyed male connector socket on top, my existing one has just male spade crimps and would be an easy like for like swap, but how would I know which grey wire goes to which keyed connector terminal and crucially - does it matter because it's AC...?
Does it matter which one I get?
The question arises because of the two grey output wires that attach to the top. The newer 470kohm models come with a keyed male connector socket on top, my existing one has just male spade crimps and would be an easy like for like swap, but how would I know which grey wire goes to which keyed connector terminal and crucially - does it matter because it's AC...?
https://ebay.us/m/Vt8YGd
Definitely not a washing machine technician but this looks like the same part as your original?
Definitely not a washing machine technician but this looks like the same part as your original?
Yes it matters, because one of them is live and the other is neutral.
You don't want all the internal switching on the neutral side, it means lots of parts will be at live voltage.
The component internal to the filter from L(in) to L(out) is an inductor, so will measure low resistance on a multimeter set for ohms.
Likewise on the Neutral side.
My suspicion however is that the filter blowing may have been caused by failure of some internal part of the machine, these filters are very robust in normal use but there are causes likely to kill them.
680k vs 470kohms won't matter IMHO.
The current rating matters, along with the inductor and capacitor values and the voltage rating.
There is some latitude on the uF and uH numbers, unless you're trying to get a nasty bit of kit through type approval.
You don't want all the internal switching on the neutral side, it means lots of parts will be at live voltage.
The component internal to the filter from L(in) to L(out) is an inductor, so will measure low resistance on a multimeter set for ohms.
Likewise on the Neutral side.
My suspicion however is that the filter blowing may have been caused by failure of some internal part of the machine, these filters are very robust in normal use but there are causes likely to kill them.
680k vs 470kohms won't matter IMHO.
The current rating matters, along with the inductor and capacitor values and the voltage rating.
There is some latitude on the uF and uH numbers, unless you're trying to get a nasty bit of kit through type approval.
Just to conclude, after confirming which grey output wire had the permanent live on it on the old filter, and which of the two male output crimps was live on the new one, I fitted a new filter a couple of days ago.
The connection on top of it looked like it was designed to accept a two crimp connector but the existing two shrouded female crimps on the ends of the grey wires slotted in beautifully.
L, N and E were obviously straight forward.
Works like a dream and no more interference. The old one had well and truly popped.
The connection on top of it looked like it was designed to accept a two crimp connector but the existing two shrouded female crimps on the ends of the grey wires slotted in beautifully.
L, N and E were obviously straight forward.
Works like a dream and no more interference. The old one had well and truly popped.
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