Rust in engine bay
Discussion
Google says.... "Volkswagen provides a 12-year anti-perforation warranty for most current vehicles"
I think everything post 2013 has the 12 year warranty.
Given the extent of this and the mileage I would be contacting VW UK to see what they say.
Edit to add - its not normal IMO that looks like a 15+ year old car not a 6-7 year old car.
I think everything post 2013 has the 12 year warranty.
Given the extent of this and the mileage I would be contacting VW UK to see what they say.
Edit to add - its not normal IMO that looks like a 15+ year old car not a 6-7 year old car.
The anti perforation warranty won’t cover it because it’s not perforated.
Pickups tend not to have anything like the corrosion protection that cars do. Although Amaroks are probably the best in my experience.
Has it lived near (in) the sea? It’s looks to in worse condition than my 2015 Mitsubishi L200 that lives in NE Scotland.
Depending on how long you intend to keep it I’d either A close the bonnet and not look again.
B. Coat it in rust converter then something like XCP rust blocker and not look at it.
Or C. Get really anal, strip and paint the corroded bit then get annoyed when the rust comes back later on.
Pickups tend not to have anything like the corrosion protection that cars do. Although Amaroks are probably the best in my experience.
Has it lived near (in) the sea? It’s looks to in worse condition than my 2015 Mitsubishi L200 that lives in NE Scotland.
Depending on how long you intend to keep it I’d either A close the bonnet and not look again.
B. Coat it in rust converter then something like XCP rust blocker and not look at it.
Or C. Get really anal, strip and paint the corroded bit then get annoyed when the rust comes back later on.
From experience on old cars and bikes nice looking shiny spray paint (on bodywork) tends not to last well on previously rusted areas.
You also have the issue of masking and moving things out of the way in an engine bay.
I’d be looking at brush on options, probably a good sanding then rust converter followed by POR15 (it’s the best stuff I’ve used, there may be other options now) and finally a general misting of xcp rust blockers similar.
On my pickup I’ve been using lanoguard on the chassis, and have used it to some extent in the engine bay too.
It’s not pretty, and smells like a boiled sheep but seems to be fairly effective for slowing the corrosion down.
You also have the issue of masking and moving things out of the way in an engine bay.
I’d be looking at brush on options, probably a good sanding then rust converter followed by POR15 (it’s the best stuff I’ve used, there may be other options now) and finally a general misting of xcp rust blockers similar.
On my pickup I’ve been using lanoguard on the chassis, and have used it to some extent in the engine bay too.
It’s not pretty, and smells like a boiled sheep but seems to be fairly effective for slowing the corrosion down.
The rust on the mounting brackets, hinges etc is merely an annoyance and just indicative of low cost paint prep and treatment.
Some of the other photos appear to show rust forming under the paint on the actual body panels. If that is the case then that is a poor show on a 2019 vehicle. My guess is that untreated they could be holes by the time the body corrosion warranty is up. However there is little of no chance of a claim unless the vehicle has had its “routine body inspections”done and marked it is up in the service book. These are rarely performed in my experience.
I would be more interested in what it looks like inside the various box sections that you cannot see. That level of corrosion in reasonably protected areas would suggest that other harder to access areas might be similar or worse regardless of what it looks like on the outside.
Has it been launching boats? A light dusting of seawater now and then does play havoc with the corrosion resistance.
If it’s a keeper then it’s time to get a bit anal and give it a good going over, sort out all the visible bubbles, rust eater, etch primer, and touch up paint. A bit of time invested now could well pay dividends in the long term.
I have Sprinter vans and they have fairly crap paint quality. I do an annual blitz in summer and touch up every chip and rust spot. Certainly helps to keep them looking OK.
Some of the other photos appear to show rust forming under the paint on the actual body panels. If that is the case then that is a poor show on a 2019 vehicle. My guess is that untreated they could be holes by the time the body corrosion warranty is up. However there is little of no chance of a claim unless the vehicle has had its “routine body inspections”done and marked it is up in the service book. These are rarely performed in my experience.
I would be more interested in what it looks like inside the various box sections that you cannot see. That level of corrosion in reasonably protected areas would suggest that other harder to access areas might be similar or worse regardless of what it looks like on the outside.
Has it been launching boats? A light dusting of seawater now and then does play havoc with the corrosion resistance.
If it’s a keeper then it’s time to get a bit anal and give it a good going over, sort out all the visible bubbles, rust eater, etch primer, and touch up paint. A bit of time invested now could well pay dividends in the long term.
I have Sprinter vans and they have fairly crap paint quality. I do an annual blitz in summer and touch up every chip and rust spot. Certainly helps to keep them looking OK.
Light commercials are never made to last, my brother always jokes that a Transit van is built to last 400,000 miles or 6 years, whichever comes soonest.
As others have said if sheltered bits under the bonnet are rusting and body panels then the underside and box sections are likely to be worse, if it was a car I'd assume it was either a very crap one or it had lived by the sea, but for a LCV it's entirely typical in my experience.
As others have said if sheltered bits under the bonnet are rusting and body panels then the underside and box sections are likely to be worse, if it was a car I'd assume it was either a very crap one or it had lived by the sea, but for a LCV it's entirely typical in my experience.
Personally I would wire brush that down as best you can and treat with Dinatrol RC 900.
It's a very effective and easy to use treatment. Follow the instructions to the letter from the Dinatrol website .
I have found it long lasting and it's proven as very effective.
It's quite expensive around £40 for a 400ml can however it goes a very long way . You will have sufficient in one can with ease .
It's a very effective and easy to use treatment. Follow the instructions to the letter from the Dinatrol website .
I have found it long lasting and it's proven as very effective.
It's quite expensive around £40 for a 400ml can however it goes a very long way . You will have sufficient in one can with ease .
There are also rust prevention/treatment people around so if you're serious about keeping this particular car long term it might be worth getting them to give it a proper going over. It's all DIYable but it's filthy stinking work brushing off corrosion, putting stuff into cavities etc.
If I wanted a proper long term ownership prospect car I'd not start with a pickup truck though, unless it also HAD to do pickup truck things.
If I wanted a proper long term ownership prospect car I'd not start with a pickup truck though, unless it also HAD to do pickup truck things.
I d do a basic tidy up then just drive it! Try not to get too precious about surface corrosion on parts you don t normally see.
It s not ideal but just looks like surface corrosion in the photos.
A good coating of lanoguard type stuff each year on the underside and chassis will help slow the corrosion there. I just do mine in the drive on basic ramps.
It s not ideal but just looks like surface corrosion in the photos.
A good coating of lanoguard type stuff each year on the underside and chassis will help slow the corrosion there. I just do mine in the drive on basic ramps.
Speed addicted said:
The anti perforation warranty won t cover it because it s not perforated.
Yeah I get that - you can see there is what looks like a crack on the bonnet buffer. Give that a year it will probably be hanging off.I only say speak to VW because I had a similar issue (in a single spot) on a German car @ 4 years (this was a few years ago) and they did agree to take it in and sort it out despite it only being surface. I appreciate it was a car though. This was about 2009 too so no doubt things might have changed.
That’s pretty poor going as others have said.
Slightly late now, but I would recommend ACF50 or Corrosion Block (The thicker mix of ACF50) - Very commonly used for motorcycles that are used in winter.
It would be best when new, or after rectification, but should stop this progressing any further too.
I usually spray down the engine bay once a year, alongside the underside of the car / suspension etc.
Whilst it’s not a full on Waxoyl, I find it keeps things fresh enough to work on easily - Especially as you can spray it quite liberally around the engine bay (ACF50 was made to spray directly onto jet engines..)
Spray it over the full engine bay:- it will burn off anything particularly hot so expect some steamy smoke / smell on the first drive. (I once went straight to the petrol station after spraying; queue alarmed looks as the engine bay “billowed" smoke…)
Slightly late now, but I would recommend ACF50 or Corrosion Block (The thicker mix of ACF50) - Very commonly used for motorcycles that are used in winter.
It would be best when new, or after rectification, but should stop this progressing any further too.
I usually spray down the engine bay once a year, alongside the underside of the car / suspension etc.
Whilst it’s not a full on Waxoyl, I find it keeps things fresh enough to work on easily - Especially as you can spray it quite liberally around the engine bay (ACF50 was made to spray directly onto jet engines..)
Spray it over the full engine bay:- it will burn off anything particularly hot so expect some steamy smoke / smell on the first drive. (I once went straight to the petrol station after spraying; queue alarmed looks as the engine bay “billowed" smoke…)
the-norseman said:
Where has the car come from?
I've got a 2017 Alfa Romeo that you would think is 30+ years old, it spent most of its life in Aberdeen. Our 2011 Volvo on the other hand looks fairly new underneath despite doing 147,000 miles.
Steady now, last time someone mentioned the corrosion on cars from Scotland/up North it triggered a PHer who lives there and apparently had to google rust because HE HAS NEVER SEEN IT ON ANY OF HIS CARS I've got a 2017 Alfa Romeo that you would think is 30+ years old, it spent most of its life in Aberdeen. Our 2011 Volvo on the other hand looks fairly new underneath despite doing 147,000 miles.
I think the only really rusty P2 Volvos I've ever seen have been cars from Scotland!
DubRok said:
I don't know much about the vehicle's history, but do know that it is a Scottish vehicle from new - it has Scottish plates.
The road salt in Scotland really does give cars an early death. It makes me wince when we get the slightest hint of frost and social media is full of Karens demanding every road and pavement is given a thick blanket of salt.Living here I've sent several cars to the scrapper earlier than they should have went, and I don't live anywhere near the coast - but rain for a huge part of the year + road salt all winter is a killer.
If you plan to keep it very long term I'd personally consider trying to trade into something similar that hasn't spent time up here, as that looks like a lot of work to put right.
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