Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded...
Discussion
I have just taken my 2008 Honda Civic in for an MOT and it passed with 2 advisories:
- "Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Nearside Rear Lower"
- "Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive Offside Rear Lower"
May be a bit late for the underseal.
What the MOT man is telling you is that your car is on the way to being rotten. The bodywork within 30cm of suspension mountings is not rusted badly enough to weaken it, yet, but it's getting that way. And that's just from a stern look and a tippity-tappity from the nice man's approved Corrosion Assessment Tool.
Bet once it's stripped down and cleaned back, there'll be some hot metal glue needed.
And this on a 10yo Civic...?!?
What the MOT man is telling you is that your car is on the way to being rotten. The bodywork within 30cm of suspension mountings is not rusted badly enough to weaken it, yet, but it's getting that way. And that's just from a stern look and a tippity-tappity from the nice man's approved Corrosion Assessment Tool.
Bet once it's stripped down and cleaned back, there'll be some hot metal glue needed.
And this on a 10yo Civic...?!?
TooMany2cvs said:
May be a bit late for the underseal.
What the MOT man is telling you is that your car is on the way to being rotten. The bodywork within 30cm of suspension mountings is not rusted badly enough to weaken it, yet, but it's getting that way. And that's just from a stern look and a tippity-tappity from the nice man's approved Corrosion Assessment Tool.
Bet once it's stripped down and cleaned back, there'll be some hot metal glue needed.
And this on a 10yo Civic...?!?
Is this not expected on a 10 year old car then?What the MOT man is telling you is that your car is on the way to being rotten. The bodywork within 30cm of suspension mountings is not rusted badly enough to weaken it, yet, but it's getting that way. And that's just from a stern look and a tippity-tappity from the nice man's approved Corrosion Assessment Tool.
Bet once it's stripped down and cleaned back, there'll be some hot metal glue needed.
And this on a 10yo Civic...?!?
How do I go about getting this fixed (If it is needed), and do you know how much it'll cost me?
Arnold Cunningham said:
Maybe, maybe not. Maybe he's flagging that corrosion is starting to take hold - but some preventative measures now might well hold off the tinworm as long as required.
The MOT guy did tell me to wire brush it and then said some words that I don't understand. I think he mentioned that hammer spray stuff that the first guy posted.IDontKnowCars said:
Is this not expected on a 10 year old car then?
Gawd, no. Not for the last few decades.IDontKnowCars said:
How do I go about getting this fixed (If it is needed), and do you know how much it'll cost me?
How long's a piece of string? It might just be a good clean-up and a bit of paint and wax. It might be imminently terminal.IDontKnowCars said:
The MOT guy did tell me to wire brush it and then said some words that I don't understand. I think he mentioned that hammer spray stuff that the first guy posted.
Wire brush scrub to remove the rust that's there. Then paint over it with a sealing paint such as HammeriteIs that roughly what he said?
And I wouldn't expect that sort of corrosion on an 08 plate car, no. I have an 05 Astra with literally none. I replaced the bumper on a friend's 03 Punto recently and that was also corrosion-free. This is obviously anecdotal at best but I think it's reasonably representative
IDontKnowCars said:
Is this not expected on a 10 year old car then?
How do I go about getting this fixed (If it is needed), and do you know how much it'll cost me?
Impossible to answer costs as nobody here knows exactly what needs doing.How do I go about getting this fixed (If it is needed), and do you know how much it'll cost me?
Just leave it till next MOT,it might just be an advisory again.
I had a "shedscort" which had 3 of these advisories year on year followed by an "excessively corroded" on the 4th (year) . £120 quids worth of the worlds crappiest welding later and it sailed through.
Of course every car and every MOT bloke is different but it's not like I wasn't given plenty of warning to get it fixed.
Of course every car and every MOT bloke is different but it's not like I wasn't given plenty of warning to get it fixed.
What MOT man also told you is that the issue is probably at the superficial stage. If not DIY, get someone to wirebrush off all the rust and peeling paint. Apply a rust converter. Apply a primer, then a topcoat (rattle can paint nothing special). Then when all is fully dry, paint ought to be left a week - apply underbody seal as previous recommendation on top of everything. If you DIY, it's just the cost of the items. And apply the underbody seal to all other places that look likely even if there is no corrosion yet.
Since it's only an advisory then perhaps not too bad... do as the MOT guy said and attack it with a wire brush, use one on an electric drill. If you are familiar with your car strip off the suspension components that are around the corrosion, give yourself room so that you can see clearly what's going on under the car. Once all loose rust has been removed use something like 'Por15' it will kill any rust and give the area a very tough coating to protect it from any further attack of the dreaded 'tin worm'. Por 15 is used throughout the 'car restoration' scene and is very good and well respected.
It's really not worth cutting corners here, do the job properly and you won't need to worry about it again, owners in the UK should regularly check the underside of their cars due to the climate and attend any areas that need attention...
Good luck
Pete
It's really not worth cutting corners here, do the job properly and you won't need to worry about it again, owners in the UK should regularly check the underside of their cars due to the climate and attend any areas that need attention...
Good luck
Pete
PSH said:
Since it's only an advisory then perhaps not too bad... do as the MOT guy said and attack it with a wire brush, use one on an electric drill. If you are familiar with your car strip off the suspension components that are around the corrosion, give yourself room so that you can see clearly what's going on under the car. Once all loose rust has been removed use something like 'Por15' it will kill any rust and give the area a very tough coating to protect it from any further attack of the dreaded 'tin worm'. Por 15 is used throughout the 'car restoration' scene and is very good and well respected.
It's really not worth cutting corners here, do the job properly and you won't need to worry about it again, owners in the UK should regularly check the underside of their cars due to the climate and attend any areas that need attention...
Good luck
Pete
Thank you so much for the step-by-step instructions. It helps a lot for somebody like me who knows nothing about cars.It's really not worth cutting corners here, do the job properly and you won't need to worry about it again, owners in the UK should regularly check the underside of their cars due to the climate and attend any areas that need attention...
Good luck
Pete
This sounds like a fun little project if this is something that I can indeed do myself.
Probably a stupid question, but, do I need to jack up the car to do this? If so, I'll need to buy a jack and jack stands (Not against doing this, just need to know).
996TT02 said:
What MOT man also told you is that the issue is probably at the superficial stage. If not DIY, get someone to wirebrush off all the rust and peeling paint. Apply a rust converter. Apply a primer, then a topcoat (rattle can paint nothing special). Then when all is fully dry, paint ought to be left a week - apply underbody seal as previous recommendation on top of everything. If you DIY, it's just the cost of the items. And apply the underbody seal to all other places that look likely even if there is no corrosion yet.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will definitely look into doing this!To do all this work, it is best to wait until we have some days of consecutive sunny/warm weather to ensure that it is all dried out and I am not sealing water inside? If so, is leaving this until summer too risky?
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