K&N OIL FILTER

[ttcool]

Has anyone used or is using a K&N OIL filter? I have an Audi TT 225 (remaped to 268) Quattro Coupe and would like to change to a K&N oil filter instead of the Audi OEM oil filter. I'm not referring to a K&N air filter or the K&N Induction kit.

Any feedback will be appreciated.

Joe

[Paul Drawmer]

ttcool said:

..would like to change to a K&N oil filter instead of the Audi OEM oil filter.

Why do you want to do this, what's the object of the exercise?

Edited by Paul Drawmer on Thursday 24th March 18:50

[davepoth]

Paul Drawmer said:

ttcool said:

..would like to change to a K&N oil filter instead of the Audi OEM oil filter.

Why do you want to do this, what's the object of the exercise?

Edited by Paul Drawmer on Thursday 24th March 18:50

K&N Filters give more power, obviously.

[ttcool]

Paul Drawmer]tcool said:

..would like to change to a K&N oil filter instead of the Audi OEM oil filter./[quote]

Why do you want to do this, what's the object of the exercise?

I've been given to understand that the K&N oil filter has superior filtration, down to a few microns, and was developed for competition use and/or oil punishing situations; greater flow when hard reving etc. Also, because it has a nut on the outer casing it's easier to remove and refit a new one. The TT oil filter is not easily accessible. If the product is good then life is easier for me!!

Joe

[Defcon5]

Better flow and better filtration? Surely you must trade one off against the other?

[Jimmyarm]

Just change the oil & regular filter more often

You'll get used to accessing it then and it won't seem like such a hard job

[ttcool]

Defcon5 said:

Better flow and better filtration? Surely you must trade one off against the other?

Just reading off the advert on the internet; I take it the K&N product isn't worth bothering with then!

Joe

[deveng]

Jesus it's a TT running slightly higher than standard power, you gave no need to worry about increasing the flow and filtration of your oil filter.

[ttcool]

Jimmyarm said:

Just change the oil & regular filter more often

You'll get used to accessing it then and it won't seem like such a hard job

That's very good advice. I do change my engine oil and filter once a year or 8,000 miles whichever comes first. Guess I'm getting lazy in my 'old' age. The under-tray is a pain when the speed nuts move and don't line up with the screws.

Joe

[ttcool]

deveng said:

Jesus it's a TT running slightly higher than standard power, you gave no need to worry about increasing the flow and filtration of your oil filter.

Overkill! but no harm done. What do you say?

Joe

[ttcool]

Incidentally, I'm using Motul 8100 X-lite Ester based 100% synthetic SAE 0W/30 oil, from Opie Oils. Is that rated in your opinion?

Joe

[Marf]

Forget flow and filtration.

1) How much is it more than the filter you currently use?
2) Is that money worth the ease of removal brought by the fact it has a nut?
3) Will you actually be the one removing it?

[JackDaniels]

For the cost of a genuine filter that has been designed specifically for the engine its going on by the people who designed the engine in the first place, I don't see the point, as has been said its only slightly more power if you were trying for a 1000hp or something then maybe.
If you are that concerned I would just carry out an oil and filter change more often.

[ttcool]

JackDaniels said:

For the cost of a genuine filter that has been designed specifically for the engine its going on by the people who designed the engine in the first place, I don't see the point, as has been said its only slightly more power if you were trying for a 1000hp or something then maybe.
If you are that concerned I would just carry out an oil and filter change more often.

More good advice and will do! Thanks chaps.

Joe

[Paul Drawmer]

I have been a strong believer in oe oil filters for many years. They HAVE to do the job, whereas aftermarket ones don't have to support the engine over any warranty term.

You are using super-duper oil.

How much track use does the car get?

For road use, I'd increase the oil service frequency to improve protection, to say, every 5000 miles. Even that is probably a large overkill.

If you do track days, then do an extra change before each one.

Before you do all this, do you make sure that you never give it beans until the oil is up to temp?

Oh, and most oil filters get put on far too tight, and they're a bh to get off. I use a chain wrench.

[maniac0796]

I wonder how mechanics all across the world deal with oil filters which don't have a nut on the end?

[dylan0451]

i've looked at these before. while i think it stands true that oem filters are designed for the engine, as with all parts they're not necessarily the best

the same reason we buy oil from somewhere like opie that exceeds manufacturer spec. most car's i've owned have specified a 10 Winter number, but i'd put a 0W in. not oem oil but better. i also don't buy into the change it more often - you could buy tesco value oil (does it exist?!) and change it every 1k miles but it's not going to give anywhere near the performace (life, protection, cleaning, additive package) of a premium, better spec oil left in for 5k miles.

as for the k&n filters, i'd imagine rather than using standardised size gauze element which is probably the same for most premium oil filters, they've designed their own which offers better filtration and increased surface area to offset an otherwise slower flow rate. there's a web page somewhere on the internet where a guy has compared loads of oil filters, measured areas, quality of the non return valves etc. that may be a good resource if you can find it.

i'm sure i read the bolt has a little hole through it so you can attach a cable so it doesn't fly off across the track when you're attempting a 10 second 1/4. for the price difference though, i personally wouldn't bother.

i've always run filtermag's though, probably a better investment ensuring there's no micoscopic ferrous in the oil...

[ttcool]

Paul Drawmer said:

I have been a strong believer in oe oil filters for many years. They HAVE to do the job, whereas aftermarket ones don't have to support the engine over any warranty term.

You are using super-duper oil.

How much track use does the car get?

For road use, I'd increase the oil service frequency to improve protection, to say, every 5000 miles. Even that is probably a large overkill.

If you do track days, then do an extra change before each one.

Before you do all this, do you make sure that you never give it beans until the oil is up to temp?

Oh, and most oil filters get put on far too tight, and they're a bh to get off. I use a chain wrench.

Paul

Thanks for the oil comment.
I may do some track days in 2011, at Croft or Teesside Autodrome. If so I'll drop the oil and filter beforehand.
5000 mile intervals will be about every 6 months.
I never give it the beans until the oil is up to temperature; I have an oil temp gauge.
I tighten the oil filter by hand only.

Joe

[Jimmyarm]

dylan0451 said:

i've looked at these before. while i think it stands true that oem filters are designed for the engine, as with all parts they're not necessarily the best

the same reason we buy oil from somewhere like opie that exceeds manufacturer spec. most car's i've owned have specified a 10 Winter number, but i'd put a 0W in. not oem oil but better. i also don't buy into the change it more often - you could buy tesco value oil (does it exist?!) and change it every 1k miles but it's not going to give anywhere near the performace (life, protection, cleaning, additive package) of a premium, better spec oil left in for 5k miles.

as for the k&n filters, i'd imagine rather than using standardised size gauze element which is probably the same for most premium oil filters, they've designed their own which offers better filtration and increased surface area to offset an otherwise slower flow rate. there's a web page somewhere on the internet where a guy has compared loads of oil filters, measured areas, quality of the non return valves etc. that may be a good resource if you can find it.

i'm sure i read the bolt has a little hole through it so you can attach a cable so it doesn't fly off across the track when you're attempting a 10 second 1/4. for the price difference though, i personally wouldn't bother.

i've always run filtermag's though, probably a better investment ensuring there's no micoscopic ferrous in the oil...

Can we have some qualification for all of this, it sounds good but mostly like you spend too much time reading the interwebs

[WhoseGeneration]

ttcool said:

That's very good advice. I do change my engine oil and filter once a year or 8,000 miles whichever comes first. Guess I'm getting lazy in my 'old' age. The under-tray is a pain when the speed nuts move and don't line up with the screws.

Joe

This mileage will depend upon the type of driving you do.
You know, many short journeys or mainly motorway or NSL A roads.
Plus, how long you intend to keep the car.
A long time, half that mileage or time, using an Audi filter and a synthetic oil of the correct spec.
Keeping for a shorter time your current procedure is fine again use an Audi filter and a good oil.
Regarding the undertray, just sort a solution.
Which might be bin the originals and use some setscrews and nuts, preferably nyloc nuts.