Brake advice please
Brake advice please
Author
Discussion

LeeThr

Original Poster:

3,122 posts

200 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
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Recently ive noticed the pug isnt stopping quite as well as it used to. Not that it was ever worth shouting about, but I have noticed im putting a bit more effort on the pedal and it is starting to get closer to the floor. I've checked the brake fluid, that seems as close to the max as possible, I think if I tried to top it up it would just go straight over the max.

Going to jack it up tommorow and have a look at what state the front pads are in. It had a new set of pads and disks around 20,000 miles ago. How long should they last? Am I right in thinking disks should last around 2 sets of pads? Or am I making stuff up? How do I tell how much life is left in a disk?

The front I shouldnt have too much trouble with, pads are simple enough. It's the back im entering the unknown with. I have ye olde drums on the back. Should the front be fine and seem like enough life still in them. What needs replacing on the back?

Thanks

james_gt3rs

4,816 posts

220 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
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Air in the system?

davepoth

29,395 posts

228 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
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It'd be the shoes at the back, maybe the drums themselves if you're really unlucky. Take a look at the handbrake auto-adjuster first though, it's probably seized.

LeeThr

Original Poster:

3,122 posts

200 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Ah right, I know my handbrake isnt quite what it used to be either, does seem to need a few more clicks these days.

Egg Chaser

4,954 posts

196 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
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Have you tried bleeding the system?

spikeyhead

20,399 posts

226 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
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I'd try bleeding things first, possibly even a complete fluid change.

If you've never changed a set of shoes on some drum brakes, get soemoen that knows what they are doing to show you how. There's often a lot of delicate force needed to remove the drums. There's also a lot of springs in there that can be very frustrating. Pads on disc brakes are so much easier.

davepoth

29,395 posts

228 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Don't bother with the bleeding first, it's messy and takes ages. The handbrake just needs the wheel and drum removing (5 minute job) and then clicking the adjusters up by hand.

Monty Python

4,813 posts

226 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
I'd be very surprised if it's the back - the braking systems cars are biased towards the front, so if you notice that braking is worse, it's either the front or something affecting the system as a whole.

davepoth

29,395 posts

228 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Monty Python said:
I'd be very surprised if it's the back - the braking systems cars are biased towards the front, so if you notice that braking is worse, it's either the front or something affecting the system as a whole.
You'd think, wouldn't you? But if the rear adjusters are seized there is an extra couple of mm of fluid needed to be pushed into the rear pipes before the pedal firms up. And if there's that extra travel needed at the back there's not enough pressure to press the front calipers onto the discs.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
davepoth said:
Don't bother with the bleeding first, it's messy and takes ages. The handbrake just needs the wheel and drum removing (5 minute job) and then clicking the adjusters up by hand.
Unless, of course, the problem is air in the system wink

Superhoop

4,913 posts

222 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
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As others have already suggested - remove the rear drums, clean them out, adjust shoes, refit drums. All should be back to normal

GreigM

6,740 posts

278 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Monty Python said:
I'd be very surprised if it's the back - the braking systems cars are biased towards the front, so if you notice that braking is worse, it's either the front or something affecting the system as a whole.
Unfortunately completely wrong

davepoth

29,395 posts

228 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
BliarOut said:
Unless, of course, the problem is air in the system wink
Not likely unless there's a leak somewhere or the OP has done work on the brakes. The fact that the handbrake has excess travel on it is a bit of a giveaway.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
davepoth said:
BliarOut said:
Unless, of course, the problem is air in the system wink
Not likely unless there's a leak somewhere or the OP has done work on the brakes. The fact that the handbrake has excess travel on it is a bit of a giveaway.
A) Brake fluid is hygroscopic wink
B) Pedal moving closer to the floor can (also) indicate air in the system.

Pug rear seals have a habit of going smile

If you don't know when the fluid was last purged and you have the right kit a complete change takes minutes.

paintman

7,860 posts

219 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Ye olde Peugeot rear wheel cylinders have a habit of leaking. Lubricates the drum & brake shoes nicely! You may not notice much of a drop in the fluid level.
Remove drums & inspect. If its one side you may as well do both as the one that hasn't gone usually comes out in sympathy shortly after its mate!
Fit new shoes as well.
Over the years we had 4 306's & they all did it!

Monty Python

4,813 posts

226 months

Monday 28th March 2011
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GreigM said:
Unfortunately completely wrong
Care to elaborate?

buggalugs

9,282 posts

266 months

Monday 28th March 2011
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Monty Python said:
GreigM said:
Unfortunately completely wrong
Care to elaborate?
See Davepoths answer above, he's spot on AFAIK

JM

3,170 posts

235 months

Monday 28th March 2011
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LeeThr said:
Going to jack it up tommorow and have a look at what state the front pads are in. It had a new set of pads and disks around 20,000 miles ago. How long should they last?
@ 20,000 miles I expect pretty worn pads, that would be my first check.


LeeThr said:
Am I right in thinking disks should last around 2 sets of pads? Or am I making stuff up? How do I tell how much life is left in a disk?
As a rule of thumb type thing then I'd say at least 2 sets of pads per disc.
Best way of checking if you need new discs is to measure them, but you need to know the recommended minimum size.
Inspect them and if they are badly scored, or have a big lip on either face then I'd change them.


LeeThr said:
The front I shouldnt have too much trouble with, pads are simple enough. It's the back im entering the unknown with. I have ye olde drums on the back. Should the front be fine and seem like enough life still in them. What needs replacing on the back?
Drums and shoes as others have said are a bit more tricky than pads and discs, but once you have an idea of what goes where it shouldn't be too bad if you are reasonably technical.
Taking the drum off can often be the hardest part, but worth doing so you can check for any leaks and wear on the shoes.

HTH


GreigM

6,740 posts

278 months

Monday 28th March 2011
quotequote all
Monty Python said:
Care to elaborate?
Its all about the pressure distributed around the system. If the rears are knackered and demand more pressure to operate this effectively removes pressure from the front (unless its a split system, which most aren't)

snotrag

15,632 posts

240 months

Monday 28th March 2011
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Also as far as I know 206's are like 106's and 306'. Their rear beams have a load compensating valve on the back that modulates brake pressure depending on how the suspension ins compressed.

Look under the beam and offset to one side between the dampers you'll see it, piston with a coil spring round it. Probably extremely rusty and gammed up, could well be seized and causing a brake imbalance.