Rust in engine bay
Discussion
I'd be grateful for some opinions and guidance on rust that is present in the engine bay of my 2019 VW Amarok (please see the uploaded photos).
I purchased the vehicle in January this year and was aware of the issue at the time, but have only recently begun to turn my attention to it. The exterior body panels are rust-free and, whilst there is some corrosion on the underside, it appears to be early-stage surface rust which I intend to treat and protect going forward. However, the rust within the engine bay appears more extensive. From what I can see, it seems to have originated from the exposed edges of the sheet metal in most instances.
My questions are:
- Is this normal on a vehicle of this age?
- Does it indicate a manufacturing defect, or is it more likely to be caused by the vehicle's environmental conditions in the past?
I'm more than happy to tackle the work myself if it is a straightforward remediation job, but equally I'm willing to engage a professional if that is the more appropriate solution. I'd be interested in views on both the cause of the corrosion and the best way to address it properly. I intend to keep the Amarok long term so want to avoid any short term bodge solutions.
Incidentally, despite being a 2019 vehicle, the Amarok has covered only 30,000 miles. I am wondering whether prolonged periods of inactivity or underuse may have accelerated the corrosion?
Any thoughts, experience or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
I purchased the vehicle in January this year and was aware of the issue at the time, but have only recently begun to turn my attention to it. The exterior body panels are rust-free and, whilst there is some corrosion on the underside, it appears to be early-stage surface rust which I intend to treat and protect going forward. However, the rust within the engine bay appears more extensive. From what I can see, it seems to have originated from the exposed edges of the sheet metal in most instances.
My questions are:
- Is this normal on a vehicle of this age?
- Does it indicate a manufacturing defect, or is it more likely to be caused by the vehicle's environmental conditions in the past?
I'm more than happy to tackle the work myself if it is a straightforward remediation job, but equally I'm willing to engage a professional if that is the more appropriate solution. I'd be interested in views on both the cause of the corrosion and the best way to address it properly. I intend to keep the Amarok long term so want to avoid any short term bodge solutions.
Incidentally, despite being a 2019 vehicle, the Amarok has covered only 30,000 miles. I am wondering whether prolonged periods of inactivity or underuse may have accelerated the corrosion?
Any thoughts, experience or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Edited by DubRok on Monday 24th August 19:00
Google says.... "Volkswagen provides a 12-year anti-perforation warranty for most current vehicles"
I think everything post 2013 has the 12 year warranty.
Given the extent of this and the mileage I would be contacting VW UK to see what they say.
Edit to add - its not normal IMO that looks like a 15+ year old car not a 6-7 year old car.
I think everything post 2013 has the 12 year warranty.
Given the extent of this and the mileage I would be contacting VW UK to see what they say.
Edit to add - its not normal IMO that looks like a 15+ year old car not a 6-7 year old car.
The anti perforation warranty won’t cover it because it’s not perforated.
Pickups tend not to have anything like the corrosion protection that cars do. Although Amaroks are probably the best in my experience.
Has it lived near (in) the sea? It’s looks to in worse condition than my 2015 Mitsubishi L200 that lives in NE Scotland.
Depending on how long you intend to keep it I’d either A close the bonnet and not look again.
B. Coat it in rust converter then something like XCP rust blocker and not look at it.
Or C. Get really anal, strip and paint the corroded bit then get annoyed when the rust comes back later on.
Pickups tend not to have anything like the corrosion protection that cars do. Although Amaroks are probably the best in my experience.
Has it lived near (in) the sea? It’s looks to in worse condition than my 2015 Mitsubishi L200 that lives in NE Scotland.
Depending on how long you intend to keep it I’d either A close the bonnet and not look again.
B. Coat it in rust converter then something like XCP rust blocker and not look at it.
Or C. Get really anal, strip and paint the corroded bit then get annoyed when the rust comes back later on.
Thanks, I looked at several Amaroks around this age before buying this one. Most of them had some rust in the engine bay and in other places. Overall this one was in better condition and is otherwise a very clean and straight vehicle.
Assuming I need to address it myself, would a professional job resolve it or can I expect the rust to come back and continue? I don t mind spending some money on it if it serves me well in the long run. Thanks.
Assuming I need to address it myself, would a professional job resolve it or can I expect the rust to come back and continue? I don t mind spending some money on it if it serves me well in the long run. Thanks.
Edited by DubRok on Monday 24th August 19:49
From experience on old cars and bikes nice looking shiny spray paint (on bodywork) tends not to last well on previously rusted areas.
You also have the issue of masking and moving things out of the way in an engine bay.
I’d be looking at brush on options, probably a good sanding then rust converter followed by POR15 (it’s the best stuff I’ve used, there may be other options now) and finally a general misting of xcp rust blockers similar.
On my pickup I’ve been using lanoguard on the chassis, and have used it to some extent in the engine bay too.
It’s not pretty, and smells like a boiled sheep but seems to be fairly effective for slowing the corrosion down.
You also have the issue of masking and moving things out of the way in an engine bay.
I’d be looking at brush on options, probably a good sanding then rust converter followed by POR15 (it’s the best stuff I’ve used, there may be other options now) and finally a general misting of xcp rust blockers similar.
On my pickup I’ve been using lanoguard on the chassis, and have used it to some extent in the engine bay too.
It’s not pretty, and smells like a boiled sheep but seems to be fairly effective for slowing the corrosion down.
The rust on the mounting brackets, hinges etc is merely an annoyance and just indicative of low cost paint prep and treatment.
Some of the other photos appear to show rust forming under the paint on the actual body panels. If that is the case then that is a poor show on a 2019 vehicle. My guess is that untreated they could be holes by the time the body corrosion warranty is up. However there is little of no chance of a claim unless the vehicle has had its “routine body inspections”done and marked it is up in the service book. These are rarely performed in my experience.
I would be more interested in what it looks like inside the various box sections that you cannot see. That level of corrosion in reasonably protected areas would suggest that other harder to access areas might be similar or worse regardless of what it looks like on the outside.
Has it been launching boats? A light dusting of seawater now and then does play havoc with the corrosion resistance.
If it’s a keeper then it’s time to get a bit anal and give it a good going over, sort out all the visible bubbles, rust eater, etch primer, and touch up paint. A bit of time invested now could well pay dividends in the long term.
I have Sprinter vans and they have fairly crap paint quality. I do an annual blitz in summer and touch up every chip and rust spot. Certainly helps to keep them looking OK.
Some of the other photos appear to show rust forming under the paint on the actual body panels. If that is the case then that is a poor show on a 2019 vehicle. My guess is that untreated they could be holes by the time the body corrosion warranty is up. However there is little of no chance of a claim unless the vehicle has had its “routine body inspections”done and marked it is up in the service book. These are rarely performed in my experience.
I would be more interested in what it looks like inside the various box sections that you cannot see. That level of corrosion in reasonably protected areas would suggest that other harder to access areas might be similar or worse regardless of what it looks like on the outside.
Has it been launching boats? A light dusting of seawater now and then does play havoc with the corrosion resistance.
If it’s a keeper then it’s time to get a bit anal and give it a good going over, sort out all the visible bubbles, rust eater, etch primer, and touch up paint. A bit of time invested now could well pay dividends in the long term.
I have Sprinter vans and they have fairly crap paint quality. I do an annual blitz in summer and touch up every chip and rust spot. Certainly helps to keep them looking OK.
Thanks all - very helpful insights. I’m quite inexperienced with rust issues - I’ve never needed to deal with them on my other cars. As much as this is a truck, it’s not worked especially hard by me and it’s also used as the family car for my young family.
I purchased it with the intention of keeping it as long as possible - I want to avoid EVs and super modern tech for as long as I can!! I’m assuming others here wouldn’t have purchased it if they’d seen this rust? I don’t want to throw good money after bad and if it’s going to cause me ongoing problems and expense, I may just move it on. Would appreciate your honest appraisals/views on what you would do. Thanks.
I purchased it with the intention of keeping it as long as possible - I want to avoid EVs and super modern tech for as long as I can!! I’m assuming others here wouldn’t have purchased it if they’d seen this rust? I don’t want to throw good money after bad and if it’s going to cause me ongoing problems and expense, I may just move it on. Would appreciate your honest appraisals/views on what you would do. Thanks.
Light commercials are never made to last, my brother always jokes that a Transit van is built to last 400,000 miles or 6 years, whichever comes soonest.
As others have said if sheltered bits under the bonnet are rusting and body panels then the underside and box sections are likely to be worse, if it was a car I'd assume it was either a very crap one or it had lived by the sea, but for a LCV it's entirely typical in my experience.
As others have said if sheltered bits under the bonnet are rusting and body panels then the underside and box sections are likely to be worse, if it was a car I'd assume it was either a very crap one or it had lived by the sea, but for a LCV it's entirely typical in my experience.
Personally I would wire brush that down as best you can and treat with Dinatrol RC 900.
It's a very effective and easy to use treatment. Follow the instructions to the letter from the Dinatrol website .
I have found it long lasting and it's proven as very effective.
It's quite expensive around £40 for a 400ml can however it goes a very long way . You will have sufficient in one can with ease .
It's a very effective and easy to use treatment. Follow the instructions to the letter from the Dinatrol website .
I have found it long lasting and it's proven as very effective.
It's quite expensive around £40 for a 400ml can however it goes a very long way . You will have sufficient in one can with ease .
There are also rust prevention/treatment people around so if you're serious about keeping this particular car long term it might be worth getting them to give it a proper going over. It's all DIYable but it's filthy stinking work brushing off corrosion, putting stuff into cavities etc.
If I wanted a proper long term ownership prospect car I'd not start with a pickup truck though, unless it also HAD to do pickup truck things.
If I wanted a proper long term ownership prospect car I'd not start with a pickup truck though, unless it also HAD to do pickup truck things.
I d do a basic tidy up then just drive it! Try not to get too precious about surface corrosion on parts you don t normally see.
It s not ideal but just looks like surface corrosion in the photos.
A good coating of lanoguard type stuff each year on the underside and chassis will help slow the corrosion there. I just do mine in the drive on basic ramps.
It s not ideal but just looks like surface corrosion in the photos.
A good coating of lanoguard type stuff each year on the underside and chassis will help slow the corrosion there. I just do mine in the drive on basic ramps.
Speed addicted said:
The anti perforation warranty won t cover it because it s not perforated.
Yeah I get that - you can see there is what looks like a crack on the bonnet buffer. Give that a year it will probably be hanging off.I only say speak to VW because I had a similar issue (in a single spot) on a German car @ 4 years (this was a few years ago) and they did agree to take it in and sort it out despite it only being surface. I appreciate it was a car though. This was about 2009 too so no doubt things might have changed.
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