Flexible wiring to the steering wheel
Flexible wiring to the steering wheel
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Discussion

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

80 months

Sunday 27th April 2008
quotequote all
I'm building a small instrument pod that fits onto the top centre of my steering wheel's metal spokes. It has a light to both indicators and one for main beam.

I can earth through the wheel itself so I need to get 3 wires from the dash to the steering wheel, but still allow the wheel to turn.

What I want is one of those stretchy spiral cables as seen on racing cars and suchlike -
http://www.locost.co.za/Catalogue/DigiDash/Images/...
http://images.stockcarracing.com/thehistoryof/bio/...

Anyone know either -
a) what I could use that might work, eg. I'm thinking perhaps headphone extension cable? This is for 3 small bulbs only on a 12v car system.
or
b) where I could buy one of these cables that's made for car use?

thanks
James

Sam_68

9,939 posts

271 months

Sunday 27th April 2008
quotequote all
Would you not be better off with three concentric slip rings with sprung contacts?

Flexi cables are ok for race car, with half a turn lock-to-lock and 'lifed' replacement every couple of races, but I'm not sure I'd trust one on a road car?

Steve_D

13,801 posts

284 months

Sunday 27th April 2008
quotequote all
I could understand wanting switches on the wheel but can't see why you would want to go to all this hassle for some lights.

Anyway there are small FM transmitter module that could do this for you and eliminate the wire.

Steve

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

80 months

Sunday 27th April 2008
quotequote all
The problem is that the indicator lights are currently positioned in the centre of the dash, and when in the driving seat the turn right indicator light is completely blocked by the drivers left hand and the steering wheel, and I'm sick of leaning over to try and see whether the light is on - it doesn't sound like a big deal but after 700 miles it's really starting to annoy me.

Anyway, I just like making little mods to the car smile

Edited by anonymous-user on Sunday 27th April 21:57

sam919

1,078 posts

222 months

Monday 28th April 2008
quotequote all
I had them on in the middle of the dash, they sat nicely under the speedo it was a bike engined car. You can get a cluster, left and right ind, high beam, oil pressure etc from demon tweeks or ebay you just need to cut a slot out your dash.
Have a fiddle about with a few options even if they seem daft at the time they may turn out t5o be a good solution, doing is the only way to learn.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

80 months

Monday 28th April 2008
quotequote all
<edit> : never mind, just ordered a bright6 module from Burton Power insead, should be much neater.

cheers
James

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 28th April 13:22

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

281 months

Monday 28th April 2008
quotequote all
Just FYI, this is achieved on production cars (for airbag and ICE/cruise control etc) using something called a "clockspring" which is just a long, flat flexible membrane type cable wound up like a clock spring into a housing that fits behind the steering wheel on the top of the column.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

80 months

Monday 28th April 2008
quotequote all
To be honest I really rather liked the idea of the visible motorsport-style stretchy cable smile

To avoid complications I'm going to mount the bright6 on the dash top where it should be easily visible and in direct line of sight. I'd mount the tacho and speedo up there also if only Tiger would make a Super6 scuttle with the pod moulded into it, as I really don't like having those instruments in the centre of the dash - glancing down and left doesn't feel natural compared to just looking slightly down.

Vindi_andy

229 posts

249 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
quotequote all
if you want you dials mounted on dash top theres always the dashtop pods you can get through rally design i think or demon tweeks and the like

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

80 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
quotequote all
Unfortunately I'd want to mount the tacho and speedo up there, and as they're large dials perhaps 3 to 4 inches diamter they'd block out most of the view out of the car if they were in a seperate pod on the dash top. smile

Tiger's R6 / B6 scuttle would be ideal as it has the required extra bulge in the top, but they won't sell one to owners of lesser models frown

Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 2nd May 14:01

Vindi_andy

229 posts

249 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
quotequote all
that doesnt make sense to me. surely any kitcar manufaturer wants to make as many sales as he can and if the customer wants to put a different scuttle on his car then why stop him. thats the whole point of kitcars, the fact that they are as individual as the owner

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

80 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
quotequote all
Tiger don't want to spoil the image of their top models by selling parts to owners of lesser vehicles. Which just means we all buy our bits from MK or somebody instead...

gingerprince

571 posts

267 months

Tuesday 6th May 2008
quotequote all
I recently had a requirement for the same kind of stuff for a flappy paddle installation. Tried the most obvious solution - telephone handset cable, but the wire is just too thin to solder and disintigrates at the first sign of an iron.

In the end I used an old 5-pin din PC keyboard extension cable - it's sturdy stuff so should hopefully last well - the coil is about an inch diameter so a lot more substantial than some other sources. Have a word with your local IT department see if they have any old stuff lying around that you can half-inch.

You can see it here: -

http://www.stuffandting.com/gallery/cars/mycars/mk...