Dashboard removal
Discussion
On my M it’s quite a simple arrangement, but like anything TVR there are variations.
If you open the doors, there is a small fixing, ( mine are pan head set screws with nuts,) either side in the A pillar, going through a flange on the dashboard panel.
With these undone and removed I can lift the whole panel up, away from where it rests on the steering column.
The dashboard panel hooks over the windscreen wiper screw mechanism carrier tube, once clear of this it can be tilted forward to give access to the rear.
Obviously great care is needed not to put strain on or damage wiring and depending on your particular dashboard layout the heater flexible pipes.
If you open the doors, there is a small fixing, ( mine are pan head set screws with nuts,) either side in the A pillar, going through a flange on the dashboard panel.
With these undone and removed I can lift the whole panel up, away from where it rests on the steering column.
The dashboard panel hooks over the windscreen wiper screw mechanism carrier tube, once clear of this it can be tilted forward to give access to the rear.
Obviously great care is needed not to put strain on or damage wiring and depending on your particular dashboard layout the heater flexible pipes.
The 3000S has a crash pad that is separate from the car and is as such forced onto the shell and latches with two snap caps...but, you need to remove all both door seals and the associated dum dum. Once the crash pad is removed 2 x 2ba bolts and penny washers at each end need removing, the lower dash leans out at the bottom and a central upright tag holding the dash needs un hooking. At that point the heater cables limit movement, but critical is the Speedo cable the requires taking off the Speedo...all this said ...it sounds as if you have a voltage stabiliser earth issue. AND it will not need a dashboard out to fix it. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 19th March 19:31
On a RHD 3000S it would above the driver's right knee, screwed to the dashboard. These days there are solid-state versions that work or do not work giving 10V. OE is a hot wire earth out dissipation unit (which can as such give a mean average of 10V and has an eyelet earth under the screw that holds it to the dash). IF it is a veneer dash there will be additional washers to stop the screw breaking through the surface of the dash. I assume that on LHD it will be above one of the knees on the dash back. A failing of the VS will feed the voltmeter/battery reading to the temperature and fuel gauges and both then read high or even low if you have the lights and heater fan (again, assume the voltmeter reading as the power going to the gauges. A@
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