Fitting Vixen Bonnet

[tvrgit]

I'm about to fit a new bonnet and frame to my Vixen S3, and I have seen references to a step-by-step article written a few years ago. I've searched here and on the TVRCC web site for ages, but I can't find it.

I did see one brief post, and it seems that it basically involves:

fit frame to chassis
fit bonnet pins and metal supports to catches
put bonnet into position
from underneath, glass frame and pins to bonnet
when it dries, remove whole assembly and glass up properly
refit and final adjustments

I would appreciate if anyone can guide me to a full article though!

[Astacus]

As I recall there was a post on here years ago written by Adrian and your approach is exactly as I remember it. I imagine it would be easier if the rad wasn’t there and maybe even the engine and the car was raised.

Edited by Astacus on Thursday 17th April 10:43

[tvrgit]

Good suggestion about the radiator. Lifting the car also seems like a good idea.

Really can't be bothered lifting the engine out though, unless I have to, to reach the bonnet pins - although I have removed the side vents to get my paws in that way...

[Astacus]

I don’t envy you being upside down under the car trying to apply fibreglass

[Monkeythree]

Don’t try to glass it in from underneath, it’s a total PITA doing it upside down. Just fit it all up using packing pieces to get everything in the right place and then mark the locations of the “feet” of the frame on the inside of the bonnet. Then dismantle it and put the bonnet on it’s back and glass it in with gravity on your side.

[tvrgit]

Good advice again - I planned to just apply enough to hold everything in place, then do what you suggest, turn it upside down. I saw a suggestion to maybe tack the plates in place with Sika or Tiger Seal, then fibreglass over when it's off?

[Moto]

As you're doing your bonnet then may also be worth modifying the hinge mounts. They're very basic, just a 'C' cup bracket (bolted to the chassis) which the threaded rods from the frame sit in with a bolt that goes through both (C bracket & rod end) that acts as the pivot.

All in all it's very crude with lots of metal to metal slop that usually causes the bonnet to rattle/knock. This then wears so it all gets worse with age.

A clevis pin sized to precisely match the C cup & rod end holes will work much better than a threaded bolt and use of a P clip enables quick release of the bonnet if required. Off the shelf engineered items are also available.

Good luck

Moto

[tvrgit]

Thanks again - I had ordered QR hinges to replace the originals.

[Monkeythree]

tvrgit said:

Good advice again - I planned to just apply enough to hold everything in place, then do what you suggest, turn it upside down. I saw a suggestion to maybe tack the plates in place with Sika or Tiger Seal, then fibreglass over when it's off?

Use a glass reinforced body filler to bed the frame onto the bonnet before glassing it in. It takes up any gaps between the two components so they are a lot less likely to move and crack the bonnet.

For hinges, I use spherical bearings (rod ends) to replace the original bits. You can easily make them quick release with a pin and a clip but I find the whole quick release thing a bit pointless anyway. It only takes a minute to undo two bolts and realistically, how often does everyone take their bonnets off?

[tvrgit]

Monkeythree said:

Use a glass reinforced body filler to bed the frame onto the bonnet before glassing it in. It takes up any gaps between the two components so they are a lot less likely to move and crack the bonnet.

Yeah, that's probably a better idea! Thanks.