Replacing Vixen Engine Mounts
Replacing Vixen Engine Mounts
Author
Discussion

Moto

Original Poster:

1,274 posts

271 months

Friday 1st August
quotequote all
Any tricks for changing crossflow engine mounts without taking the engine fully out?

Planning to support engine, slacken off the gearbox mount, remove engine mount bolts and hoping then a 1-2" engine lift will give enough room to undo and remove the engine mounts.

Anyone done this - is it do'able? Or is a full engine lift required?

Moto

Monkeythree

522 posts

247 months

Saturday 2nd August
quotequote all
It is doable using the method you have described although they can be a pig to manipulate in and out. You have to be careful that you are not stretching or twisting any plumbing or wiring and also the exhaust. You may also find that the engine needs dropping rather than lifting in order to create the space to wiggle them out/in.

Moto

Original Poster:

1,274 posts

271 months

Saturday 2nd August
quotequote all
Monkeythree said:
It is doable using the method you have described although they can be a pig to manipulate in and out. You have to be careful that you are not stretching or twisting any plumbing or wiring and also the exhaust. You may also find that the engine needs dropping rather than lifting in order to create the space to wiggle them out/in.
Cheers M3. Also good tip to try dropping engine. thumbup

Monkeythree

522 posts

247 months

Saturday 2nd August
quotequote all
Once you get one out, the other side will come out easily so imo it’s better to do that (both out and everything balanced on the jack) rather than change one, then change the other one if you see what I mean.

Moto

Original Poster:

1,274 posts

271 months

Thought I'd show the modified engine mounts to be fitted. The centre of the three mounts is as came off the car, which is the longer legged standard Ford mount.



The modified items use the slightly shorter standard mount (so should reduce flex) used on earlier Vixens and some Escorts. The bonded rubber block removed, a 5mm steel plate welded to the top, drilled and fitted with a failsafe Vibratechnics mount for a Triumph.

50mm penny washers then used as shims to get length precise to suit engine to frame gaps.

Hopefully this will reduce engine rock and movement through hard cornering whilst providing some comfort that if a rubber does ever fail, the engine can't fallout yikes

Oh, should also be easier to remove in future as the rubber is now bolted to the leg so can be split by undoing two bolts.

I'll find out next season whether it improves the feel through the corners.

Moto