Replacing Vixen Engine Mounts
Discussion
Any tricks for changing crossflow engine mounts without taking the engine fully out?
Planning to support engine, slacken off the gearbox mount, remove engine mount bolts and hoping then a 1-2" engine lift will give enough room to undo and remove the engine mounts.
Anyone done this - is it do'able? Or is a full engine lift required?
Moto
Planning to support engine, slacken off the gearbox mount, remove engine mount bolts and hoping then a 1-2" engine lift will give enough room to undo and remove the engine mounts.
Anyone done this - is it do'able? Or is a full engine lift required?
Moto
It is doable using the method you have described although they can be a pig to manipulate in and out. You have to be careful that you are not stretching or twisting any plumbing or wiring and also the exhaust. You may also find that the engine needs dropping rather than lifting in order to create the space to wiggle them out/in.
Monkeythree said:
It is doable using the method you have described although they can be a pig to manipulate in and out. You have to be careful that you are not stretching or twisting any plumbing or wiring and also the exhaust. You may also find that the engine needs dropping rather than lifting in order to create the space to wiggle them out/in.
Cheers M3. Also good tip to try dropping engine. Thought I'd show the modified engine mounts to be fitted. The centre of the three mounts is as came off the car, which is the longer legged standard Ford mount.

The modified items use the slightly shorter standard mount (so should reduce flex) used on earlier Vixens and some Escorts. The bonded rubber block removed, a 5mm steel plate welded to the top, drilled and fitted with a failsafe Vibratechnics mount for a Triumph.
50mm penny washers then used as shims to get length precise to suit engine to frame gaps.
Hopefully this will reduce engine rock and movement through hard cornering whilst providing some comfort that if a rubber does ever fail, the engine can't fallout
Oh, should also be easier to remove in future as the rubber is now bolted to the leg so can be split by undoing two bolts.
I'll find out next season whether it improves the feel through the corners.
Moto
The modified items use the slightly shorter standard mount (so should reduce flex) used on earlier Vixens and some Escorts. The bonded rubber block removed, a 5mm steel plate welded to the top, drilled and fitted with a failsafe Vibratechnics mount for a Triumph.
50mm penny washers then used as shims to get length precise to suit engine to frame gaps.
Hopefully this will reduce engine rock and movement through hard cornering whilst providing some comfort that if a rubber does ever fail, the engine can't fallout

Oh, should also be easier to remove in future as the rubber is now bolted to the leg so can be split by undoing two bolts.
I'll find out next season whether it improves the feel through the corners.
Moto
Message Board | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


