Tuscan buyers guide?
Discussion
Can some of you more experienced Tuscan Race Car Folk give me some pointers as to what I should be checking for when inspecting a Tuscan that hasn't moved for a number of years? Have the technical regs changed for Tuscans recently? I know about the harness anchor points but I'm talking about roll cage spec and what not.
Are there any parts that may need changing such as crank seals, calliper seals, master and slave cylinder seals, fuel lines, brake hoses, etc
Any info gratefully received
Are there any parts that may need changing such as crank seals, calliper seals, master and slave cylinder seals, fuel lines, brake hoses, etc
Any info gratefully received
Is this before or after you have bought it?
If it has stood for some time then budget on master cylinder, brake calliper and clutch slave seal. Rear seal on gearbox possibly.
Check steering rack action is smooth.
Check condition of diff bushes (top and front mounts) – stick a pry bar in there and try to waggle the diff around.
Assume that the front hubs need replacing unless the previous owner can prove the age to you, or has magnaflux test certificates.
Assume all rubber fuel hose will need replacing – check for perishing / cracks – including inside the passenger bay between fuel tank and low pressure pump and swirl pot to high pressure pump, feed to fuel line/pressure reg and return
Check fuel pumps function - they can jam up with no use, but may free up with a gentle tap with a ‘persuader’. Ditto with starter motor.
Roll cage - there was an additional drivers door bar added along with a carbon/honeycomb intrusion panel. It will be very obvious if its not there… Other than that the spec stayed pretty constant.
If it has a bulkhead mounted pedal box there should be a brace to the chassis under the bonnet.
Its worth checking the front and rear lighting works as the lighting looms can be a bit crap/chopped about.
Another troublesome area is the relay panel in the passenger bay. Wires tend to get pulled out of the back of the relay panel when the tonneau cover is removed and replaced - and it is very inaccessible once its back in.
If it has stood for some time then budget on master cylinder, brake calliper and clutch slave seal. Rear seal on gearbox possibly.
Check steering rack action is smooth.
Check condition of diff bushes (top and front mounts) – stick a pry bar in there and try to waggle the diff around.
Assume that the front hubs need replacing unless the previous owner can prove the age to you, or has magnaflux test certificates.
Assume all rubber fuel hose will need replacing – check for perishing / cracks – including inside the passenger bay between fuel tank and low pressure pump and swirl pot to high pressure pump, feed to fuel line/pressure reg and return
Check fuel pumps function - they can jam up with no use, but may free up with a gentle tap with a ‘persuader’. Ditto with starter motor.
Roll cage - there was an additional drivers door bar added along with a carbon/honeycomb intrusion panel. It will be very obvious if its not there… Other than that the spec stayed pretty constant.
If it has a bulkhead mounted pedal box there should be a brace to the chassis under the bonnet.
Its worth checking the front and rear lighting works as the lighting looms can be a bit crap/chopped about.
Another troublesome area is the relay panel in the passenger bay. Wires tend to get pulled out of the back of the relay panel when the tonneau cover is removed and replaced - and it is very inaccessible once its back in.
when did it last move?
The cages did change, but i think it was mainly the addition of the extra door bars.
caliper and slave seals are always going to suffer if left standing, and oil seals will dry out and harden. but thats all consumables
I'd be more concerened with the general condition of the chassis,is it straight and in good condition, then I'd look at the suspension.
Ideally you want the thing jacked up with the wheels up so you can check all the rose joints and that the brakes are working.
dont overlook the rose joints, to replace them all with goldline its 2-3k.
how tidy is the wiring, does it look like its been hacked around much?
does it have floor mounted peddals or the earlier bulkhead mount, floor mount is better,
check the steering rack isnt tight anywhere, they are specific to tuscans, as is the radiator.
dampers are also expensive and if its been stood for years they'll probably need looking at.. penske's cost 250 quid a corner to service and re gas...
You'll probably be surprised how basic everything is, non of its rocket science.
best of luck and send pics...
if your unsure of anything when looking at it give me a bell and i'll do my best to confuse you even more
G
The cages did change, but i think it was mainly the addition of the extra door bars.
caliper and slave seals are always going to suffer if left standing, and oil seals will dry out and harden. but thats all consumables
I'd be more concerened with the general condition of the chassis,is it straight and in good condition, then I'd look at the suspension.
Ideally you want the thing jacked up with the wheels up so you can check all the rose joints and that the brakes are working.
dont overlook the rose joints, to replace them all with goldline its 2-3k.
how tidy is the wiring, does it look like its been hacked around much?
does it have floor mounted peddals or the earlier bulkhead mount, floor mount is better,
check the steering rack isnt tight anywhere, they are specific to tuscans, as is the radiator.
dampers are also expensive and if its been stood for years they'll probably need looking at.. penske's cost 250 quid a corner to service and re gas...
You'll probably be surprised how basic everything is, non of its rocket science.
best of luck and send pics...
if your unsure of anything when looking at it give me a bell and i'll do my best to confuse you even more
G
Forums | General Motorsport | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff