Cooling systems.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

There seems to be a few different set-up for the Rv8 cars.
The Chim's and Griff had swirl pots and or swirl pots and header tanks
The wedgies just had header tanks.

Not sure what the Tuscan RV8 race cars had (maybe someone could post what they had.)

Seeing as I'll be doing mine from scratch, was wondering the best solution. most the the tuning books say the output from the pump should go upwards, but this is very hard with the rad so low.

Thanks
Leigh

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

bump.
Somone must know the best config for a Rv8.

[IanMack]

Hi Leigh
I ve been discussing water system designs with friends and colleagues as i try to decide what to do with my project. The consenus feel that TVR used the swirl pot in the Griff/Chim 500 due to engine bay heat issues. The swirl pot increases the water capacity keeping the engine cooler and also helps in bleeding the water system. Strangly enough the Cerbera doesnt use a swirl pot at all just a miss match of pipes everywhere!!! The picture of a tuscan racer i have used a swirl pot (but its fitted with an AJP) Unfortunatly i don t know if there were any heat issues in a wedge but bearing in mind hot summer days waiting on the grid for the marshal to let you know the rest of the cars are in position, i would go for the side of caution and use the swirl pot and header tank. Ill be doing the same on my car!!! Good luck

[Graham]

We used a scientific approach

the original tuscan rad, and the bits from the donor Chimaera ( header tank and swirl pot) bodged together with some random bits of pipe..

the only problem we used to get was air locks when filling. we out a screw valve on one of the unused manifold outlets near the stat to get round that, when we had the stock manifold and plenum.

Its air locks that seem to be the problem more than anything else...

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

I'll go with a swirlpot and Header / Expansion tank also then.
Just need to find a Griff / Chim Expansion Tank. as the wedge ones are crap.

[IanMack]

Put a wanted ad in the clssifieds, Bell hill and Douglas valley charge ridicoulous amounts for them, almost worth paying for a bespoke one!! If you want to go for a one off, i know somone who makes them

[GreenV8S]

Is this for racing? I assume you have an adequate size radiator which is ducted to fresh air and has a cowled fan. You need a stat and a bypass big enough to maintain flow through the heads when the stat is closed - the better the rad the more important this is. This more or less means you need a remote stat. You need to ensure that all the voids where air can accumulate have a means to vent this uphill to the degas tank. Usually this just means the top of the inlet manifold and the top of the radiator, but if you have any other plumbing that has any high spots able to hold air pockets you need to deal with that. If you have a preserpentine front cover you need to ensure the original bypass is still fitted to act as a vent for the pump. You can't have too much volume - the more water you have in the system the happer it will be. You also want at least a couple of liters of air. This acts as a spring and keeps the overall system pressure constant as the various bits expand and contract.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Yes it is for racing, going to have a Big Ali rad. with duel fans.
Engine is a late P38 with late front cover with no disy.
not sure if I;m going to ran a stat.

[GreenV8S]

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

Yes it is for racing, going to have a Big Ali rad. with duel fans.
Engine is a late P38 with late front cover with no disy.
not sure if I;m going to ran a stat.

If you run without a stat then the temperature will be all over the place as the load and speed changes, temperature changes cause expansion and contraction which is bad for durability.

Run a stat.