Discussion
This is a thread about my first car which I've owned since 2003, it started life as a 1.3 8v Polo GT, all 75bhp and 800kg.
Chapter 1 - The Early Years
I don t have many photos of my car standard, partly because it didn t spend much of its life in this state. However, there was a brief period I was content with cleaning it, polishing it and adding a few shiny dress parts.
It looked like this:
If ever there was a car that didn't have a clue what the next 23 years held for it...
Shortly after passing my test, I bought a Wizards of Nos nitrous kit, and jetted it for about 80bhp and made my way down to Santa Pod on a regular basis:
The car would run 17s without gas and high 15s with it
I made my own coilovers and promptly ruined the little handling capability the car had from factory, whilst bouncing down the road on 175/50 A539s stretched on a 13x7 listening to Pendulum at full tilt. Good times.
I then started tinkering a little more seriously and had an early MS1 megasquirt system running on some Kawasaki Ninja ITBs and a 300' rally cam which needed piston relieving so the valves didn't clash.
This setup sounded great, but never really delivered the power/torque I wanted. Using a student loan I proceeded to buy a doner G40 which had some decent components, mainly a K03 turbo strapped to the front in place of the more fragile G-Lader:
This setup made just over 200bhp/190lbft add a set of MT Drag slicks and I was deep into the 13s:
Then with a sniff of giggle gas, into the 12s:
This was back in 2008/2009 which was fairly uncommon, in the VW Scene the 4wd Audis were rapid all would be shown a clean set of heels by a lightly fettled Golf R / RS3 today, but in 2008 a 1.3 8v Polo beating RS4s was funny!
After many trips to Santa Pod, I wanted a new challenge so set about making some changes to the turbo setup which would suit circuits.
Turbo setup was changed to a GT2554R and ran around the same power level I had previously with nitrous, just no gas this time:
I also stuck a full cage in it:
Bruntingthorpe (back when you could rent it!) was used to map the car, still on it s original Bosch Digifant ECU. One of the final WOT 5th gear pulls recorded 150mph GPS (on a road angel remember them?!)
Unfortunately the carbon bonnet would call time and lost it s outer skin
I did numerous trackdays being a local to Oulton Park at the time
One greasy morning I ran out of talent coming out of Shell hairpin and hit grass on slicks, which resulted in some barrier contact. I took the opportunity to fit some WL Motorsport arches to run a wider track and bigger wheels in future:
Once repaired and wheels were pointing roughly in the right direction, it took a trip to CofG to see Chris and Pete:
I then spent many hours at various circuits doing my best to break things, a few random photos:
Blyton Park with a mate in his AX (runs a 16v motor and Saxo Cup running gear)
Always tinkering:
Few days at Curborough with Club GTi crew:
I d also revisit Santa Pod with my mate in his R5:
If you re still reading, you might find it odd that I ve not mentioned broken components, there have been plenty! Possibly the most spectacular was following a PH Meet near the M6 Toll.
The Polo had drawn a crowd and I d been chatting to a few people, I recall someone asking me what's the bottom end was good for?
Plenty, mate
fast forward about 45min and I m staring at the crank through a hole in the block!
That was fixed with a set of stronger rods, what continued to plague me was gearbox issues.
The original 085 gearbox wasn t designed for slicks and the power/torque I was feeding it. After several broken gearboxes, snapped shafts, CV joints etc I decided to make a larger 02J gearbox from a golf fit.
The box itself is a similar size to the Polo engine:
One adapter plate, bespoke shafts and linkages later and I was back in business.
The car stayed like this for a while, it remained road legal too:
I then decided to stick a 1.8t 20v into it (because the gearbox was now capable of more power FFS.
This will continue with, Chapter 2 Polo GT1
Chapter 1 - The Early Years
I don t have many photos of my car standard, partly because it didn t spend much of its life in this state. However, there was a brief period I was content with cleaning it, polishing it and adding a few shiny dress parts.
It looked like this:
If ever there was a car that didn't have a clue what the next 23 years held for it...
Shortly after passing my test, I bought a Wizards of Nos nitrous kit, and jetted it for about 80bhp and made my way down to Santa Pod on a regular basis:
The car would run 17s without gas and high 15s with it
I made my own coilovers and promptly ruined the little handling capability the car had from factory, whilst bouncing down the road on 175/50 A539s stretched on a 13x7 listening to Pendulum at full tilt. Good times.
I then started tinkering a little more seriously and had an early MS1 megasquirt system running on some Kawasaki Ninja ITBs and a 300' rally cam which needed piston relieving so the valves didn't clash.
This setup sounded great, but never really delivered the power/torque I wanted. Using a student loan I proceeded to buy a doner G40 which had some decent components, mainly a K03 turbo strapped to the front in place of the more fragile G-Lader:
This setup made just over 200bhp/190lbft add a set of MT Drag slicks and I was deep into the 13s:
Then with a sniff of giggle gas, into the 12s:
This was back in 2008/2009 which was fairly uncommon, in the VW Scene the 4wd Audis were rapid all would be shown a clean set of heels by a lightly fettled Golf R / RS3 today, but in 2008 a 1.3 8v Polo beating RS4s was funny!
After many trips to Santa Pod, I wanted a new challenge so set about making some changes to the turbo setup which would suit circuits.
Turbo setup was changed to a GT2554R and ran around the same power level I had previously with nitrous, just no gas this time:
I also stuck a full cage in it:
Bruntingthorpe (back when you could rent it!) was used to map the car, still on it s original Bosch Digifant ECU. One of the final WOT 5th gear pulls recorded 150mph GPS (on a road angel remember them?!)
Unfortunately the carbon bonnet would call time and lost it s outer skin
I did numerous trackdays being a local to Oulton Park at the time
One greasy morning I ran out of talent coming out of Shell hairpin and hit grass on slicks, which resulted in some barrier contact. I took the opportunity to fit some WL Motorsport arches to run a wider track and bigger wheels in future:
Once repaired and wheels were pointing roughly in the right direction, it took a trip to CofG to see Chris and Pete:
I then spent many hours at various circuits doing my best to break things, a few random photos:
Blyton Park with a mate in his AX (runs a 16v motor and Saxo Cup running gear)
Always tinkering:
Few days at Curborough with Club GTi crew:
I d also revisit Santa Pod with my mate in his R5:
If you re still reading, you might find it odd that I ve not mentioned broken components, there have been plenty! Possibly the most spectacular was following a PH Meet near the M6 Toll.
The Polo had drawn a crowd and I d been chatting to a few people, I recall someone asking me what's the bottom end was good for?
Plenty, mate
fast forward about 45min and I m staring at the crank through a hole in the block!
That was fixed with a set of stronger rods, what continued to plague me was gearbox issues.
The original 085 gearbox wasn t designed for slicks and the power/torque I was feeding it. After several broken gearboxes, snapped shafts, CV joints etc I decided to make a larger 02J gearbox from a golf fit.
The box itself is a similar size to the Polo engine:
One adapter plate, bespoke shafts and linkages later and I was back in business.
The car stayed like this for a while, it remained road legal too:
I then decided to stick a 1.8t 20v into it (because the gearbox was now capable of more power FFS.
This will continue with, Chapter 2 Polo GT1
Edited by Yoof on Wednesday 5th August 14:10
I remember these, even had one , be it the 'breadvan' style as my first car of sorts.
1043cc engine and 4 speed box. that engine blew up 3 times cause of the HG design fault.
Ironically someone i worked with has one in blue, with a similar setup of a G40 engine with a sizeable turbo. I believe he's working over at Prodrive these days.
1043cc engine and 4 speed box. that engine blew up 3 times cause of the HG design fault.
Ironically someone i worked with has one in blue, with a similar setup of a G40 engine with a sizeable turbo. I believe he's working over at Prodrive these days.
Sf_Manta said:
I remember these, even had one , be it the 'breadvan' style as my first car of sorts.
1043cc engine and 4 speed box. that engine blew up 3 times cause of the HG design fault.
Ironically someone i worked with has one in blue, with a similar setup of a G40 engine with a sizeable turbo. I believe he's working over at Prodrive these days.
I’ve known Andy the best part of 40 years, we’ve got the same parents 1043cc engine and 4 speed box. that engine blew up 3 times cause of the HG design fault.
Ironically someone i worked with has one in blue, with a similar setup of a G40 engine with a sizeable turbo. I believe he's working over at Prodrive these days.
Heyup Ash, it's still going... if it's 'strong' remains to be seen! Chapter 2 – Polo GT1
I glossed over making the larger VW/Audi gearbox fit a small block VW, the Polo came with an 085 Transmission, 085 Transmissions have a reputation of being weak especially in higher powered boosted applications. Not surprising given the 084 is was based on had to handle 895cc of power and a lightweight Mk1. Add a little weight, and lots more power (about 4 or 5 times the amount of the Mk1) and it’s not surprising a 230bhp G40 will strip gears for fun.
So far my 085 failures had been:
• Inner CV Joint
• 2nd Gear
• 3rd Gear
• 5th Gear
• Diff/Final Drive Bolts
Time for a change...
Now a huge amount of work went into grafting an 02J from a Golf, onto a Polo engine.
Summary of work done:
- Bespoke Adapter plate
- Bespoke driveshafts
- Modified CV joints
- Modified Wheel Hubs
- Large amount of fabrication on the NSF and OSF chassis legs
- Bespoke crank pulley
- Bespoke alternator bracketry
- Fabricated engine mounts
- Bespoke gearshift cables
Yada yada – I spent a year getting it to work, and it did indeed work!
The Polo was then my wedding car, alongside some other family member’s motors:
I did a few trackdays (with no gearbox failures!) and decided it was time to refresh the shell after a decade of me cutting, grinding and modifying it.
A little bit of steel and a welder later:
It’s mounted on a spit and ready for some work.
A ‘refresh the chassis’ turned into:
- Fit a 1.8T 20v (aim was circa 500bhp)
- Fit a Tilton Pedal Box
- Fit an ATL fuel cell
- Make a flat-floor
- Convert to EPAS
- Additional roll cage tubes
- Sill stands
- Stitch weld chassis
- Repair any rust along the way
So it starts with removing underseal from the floor, all in a single integral garage, I was popular for a few years!
After many hours of grinding I could make a plan for repair sections:
For all the redundant holes I had some sheet laser cut to save time:
And welded them into various places:
Stitch welding the entire chassis was also on the to-do list:
Next up some sill-stands with receivers integrated into the roll-cage feet:
Followed by lashings of primer to stop things rusting quite so fast..
Then followed some more of the significant modifications, a 20l fuel cell was sunk into the floor to allow room for a side exit exhaust, which in turn would allow room for a rear diffuser and flat floor.
Cut a hole:
School boy maths:
Frame structure made:
Metal glue gun in place:
ATL fuel cell in:
Next up was a 3” exhaust with a side exit to give additional clearance to the rear axle, and to upgrade the rear wheel hubs to later 5x100 VW group parts which run a larger wheel bearing and rear disc. This was mainly to mitigate premature bearing failures when running slicks.
The stub axle spacing is common, so the stub/hub/caliper and disc are bolt on using VW parts:
I then drilled a big hole in the side of the car for a tailpipe:
And added a few of these VW T3 exhaust mounts (an idea from Project Binky)
Few bits of wood to mock-up:
Tacked together it looks something like this:
The hole between skins was finished with an odd shaped piece of steel:
Then some additional bracing on the rear axle, the VW Golf Mk4 Rally cars were the inspiration:
This is to minimise geometry changes under wheel loads
Many plates were made and welded together with some bosses in the end:
Mocked up with misalignment spacers:
Then centre mount welded in:
Finishing touches and the handbrake cables running through the relief tubes:
Finished article:
Then I added some studs to the underside to attach some heat shielding to:
I then set about making a flat-floor for the Polo. Admittedly, very little aerodynamic theory is applied here (mainly because it’s a few decades since I studied it at Uni!) but the aim being to create a floor which is less turbulent than existing with a safe rear diffuser angle to try and scavenge any useful downforce by keeping air attached.
I also wanted it to be removable and have some height adjustment for future tweaks.
Starts with a few mock-ups to get reference points, I should note, this was over a decade ago and 3D scanning wasn’t cheap, borrowing a Faro arm from work wasn’t possible either!
Front half mocked-up with a few sections:
Many clamps:
The joints are all riveted and have stud to set depth, which is then replaced by nylon spacers that have heat shrink holding them in position with a through bolt from the underside:
Lots of sections means a numbering system is required:
The rear diffuser is 7 degrees relative to the floor, this angle can be changed by fitting some different plates ( not an easy job trackside, but possible in an hour or so)
With that the framework is complete and bolted to the underside:
Some laser cut aluminium sheet was then drawn up and ordered, and the hand-aching task of riveting it all together can start:
Each hole needs to be drilled and riveted
I have spare sections of the floor if I need to replaced some damage in future, this is what is looks like without vertical diffuser sections:
And with them in place, I left the outer pieces as the final wheel/tyre choice hadn’t been made at this point:
Side skirts to be integrated into the outer floor sections at a later date too:
Underside looks like this:
And the top side of the under floor looks like this when removed:
Next up, EPAS and a Tilton pedal box:
Ta-da…!
I made some jacking plates for the sill stands:
Now comes the start of the demise – fitting a 1.8T 20v from a Golf GTi / S3 / Cupra R etc.
This doesn’t fit in a 1991 VW Polo in any way, shape or form. The first incarnation was using a 02M 6-speed from a Cupra R and a K04-064 Turbo from a Cupra racecar (including manifold) and a stub shaft from a VW Sharan with an Audi A3 TDi intermediate shaft to give equal length driveshafts.
A cheap(ish) OEM parts bin powertrain:
Many hours were spent hacking bits around to make this fit:
It was then clear that the engine position I wanted would mean the Polo steering rack had to go.
As I had the EPAS system from a Corsa, the steering rack was an obvious choice, given the steering arms are either end of it, not centrally mounted like the original Polo one:
The chassis at this point had significant alterations to the front chassis legs:
And the steering rack was proving to be equally challenging:
Mounts made:
In-fill panels mocked up:
And a pig-awful job nearer to completion:
A bespoke subframe was made to incorporate the rear engine mount:
I then decided to maximise the new found space by filling it with a tubular manifold and ex-BTCC Owen Developments Turbo:
The largest radiator I could fit was positioned:
Followed by a modified Evo intercooler core:
The standard inlet manifold would stick out the bonnet massively:
So at this point, in parallel with a house move, I shipped the Polo off for boost pipes, inlet and exhaust completion (I don’t have a TIG welder and haven’t done it for a few decades at this point)
So it was pushed outside and trailered to my mate Dave, who’s built a few awesome cars, a bike engined Derby amongst them:
Dave delivered some elegantly simple boost pipe runs and inlet design:
Bosses for pressure transducers and thermocouples:
My old faithful Tial BOV still going strong:
It was all going so well… until I started trying to achieve decent suspension geometry. The Polo doesn’t have a subframe as standard, it has a single-track control arm which is loosely held in position by an anti-roll bar.
For many years people have adapted early Escort compression struts to offer caster adjustment and try to mitigate wheel movement fore and aft, bump steer remains a big problem in early polos due to steering rack design and position, the standard upright has the mounting point welded to the strut with an integrated wheel hub.
To change from the single upright to a separate strut and hub I bought some Vento VR6 challenge car coilovers:
Then made a set of spherical top mounts to compensate the caster angle I wanted to run whist bridging the gap between my welded in strut mounts on the Polo and the mono-tube strut from Bilstien:
The wheel hubs were then changed to a 5x100 from a Mk3 Golf VR6 which fit in the hub-housing of a Mk2 Golf:
A mock-up wheel is then fitted:
And weeks of measuring bump steer, camber gain, max/min adjustment then started:
That then gave me some targets of how much the chosen parts would have to be modified, first up was the lower ball joint position hub side, this was dropped and changed to a spherical bearing (common with a Lola T70)
Made to my drawing by Noath, who are great:
With a castle nut on the underside:
And the ‘light-bulbs’ then tacked to a stut to have the bearings pressed in, allowing the ball joint replacements to be bolted (and later welded) in situ
Many more parts then ordered:
Multiple mounting points assessed, measured, mocked-up, rinse and repeat:
What I would compromise with was this:
This wasn’t ideal as the front pickup points are not in the ideal height (Z) or width (Y) the longitudinal position (X) is also sub-optimal as they’re all dictated by the wider powertrain and clearance required.
This coupled with the steering arm mounting on the hub side, is where the project stalled and ‘Polo GT1’ came to a halt. The ideal solution for both the aforementioned problems was to design a bespoke front upright.
This at the time was too expensive, and I was concerned that after sinking several thousand into bespoke uprights and the changes to everything attached to them (brakes, suspension, CV joints, Wheel speed sensors etc) I wouldn’t be left with much change from £10k.
I parked the car up, and went back to the drawing board. Next chapter is ‘Polo GT2’
I glossed over making the larger VW/Audi gearbox fit a small block VW, the Polo came with an 085 Transmission, 085 Transmissions have a reputation of being weak especially in higher powered boosted applications. Not surprising given the 084 is was based on had to handle 895cc of power and a lightweight Mk1. Add a little weight, and lots more power (about 4 or 5 times the amount of the Mk1) and it’s not surprising a 230bhp G40 will strip gears for fun.
So far my 085 failures had been:
• Inner CV Joint
• 2nd Gear
• 3rd Gear
• 5th Gear
• Diff/Final Drive Bolts
Time for a change...
Now a huge amount of work went into grafting an 02J from a Golf, onto a Polo engine.
Summary of work done:
- Bespoke Adapter plate
- Bespoke driveshafts
- Modified CV joints
- Modified Wheel Hubs
- Large amount of fabrication on the NSF and OSF chassis legs
- Bespoke crank pulley
- Bespoke alternator bracketry
- Fabricated engine mounts
- Bespoke gearshift cables
Yada yada – I spent a year getting it to work, and it did indeed work!
The Polo was then my wedding car, alongside some other family member’s motors:
I did a few trackdays (with no gearbox failures!) and decided it was time to refresh the shell after a decade of me cutting, grinding and modifying it.
A little bit of steel and a welder later:
It’s mounted on a spit and ready for some work.
A ‘refresh the chassis’ turned into:
- Fit a 1.8T 20v (aim was circa 500bhp)
- Fit a Tilton Pedal Box
- Fit an ATL fuel cell
- Make a flat-floor
- Convert to EPAS
- Additional roll cage tubes
- Sill stands
- Stitch weld chassis
- Repair any rust along the way
So it starts with removing underseal from the floor, all in a single integral garage, I was popular for a few years!
After many hours of grinding I could make a plan for repair sections:
For all the redundant holes I had some sheet laser cut to save time:
And welded them into various places:
Stitch welding the entire chassis was also on the to-do list:
Next up some sill-stands with receivers integrated into the roll-cage feet:
Followed by lashings of primer to stop things rusting quite so fast..
Then followed some more of the significant modifications, a 20l fuel cell was sunk into the floor to allow room for a side exit exhaust, which in turn would allow room for a rear diffuser and flat floor.
Cut a hole:
School boy maths:
Frame structure made:
Metal glue gun in place:
ATL fuel cell in:
Next up was a 3” exhaust with a side exit to give additional clearance to the rear axle, and to upgrade the rear wheel hubs to later 5x100 VW group parts which run a larger wheel bearing and rear disc. This was mainly to mitigate premature bearing failures when running slicks.
The stub axle spacing is common, so the stub/hub/caliper and disc are bolt on using VW parts:
I then drilled a big hole in the side of the car for a tailpipe:
And added a few of these VW T3 exhaust mounts (an idea from Project Binky)
Few bits of wood to mock-up:
Tacked together it looks something like this:
The hole between skins was finished with an odd shaped piece of steel:
Then some additional bracing on the rear axle, the VW Golf Mk4 Rally cars were the inspiration:
This is to minimise geometry changes under wheel loads
Many plates were made and welded together with some bosses in the end:
Mocked up with misalignment spacers:
Then centre mount welded in:
Finishing touches and the handbrake cables running through the relief tubes:
Finished article:
Then I added some studs to the underside to attach some heat shielding to:
I then set about making a flat-floor for the Polo. Admittedly, very little aerodynamic theory is applied here (mainly because it’s a few decades since I studied it at Uni!) but the aim being to create a floor which is less turbulent than existing with a safe rear diffuser angle to try and scavenge any useful downforce by keeping air attached.
I also wanted it to be removable and have some height adjustment for future tweaks.
Starts with a few mock-ups to get reference points, I should note, this was over a decade ago and 3D scanning wasn’t cheap, borrowing a Faro arm from work wasn’t possible either!
Front half mocked-up with a few sections:
Many clamps:
The joints are all riveted and have stud to set depth, which is then replaced by nylon spacers that have heat shrink holding them in position with a through bolt from the underside:
Lots of sections means a numbering system is required:
The rear diffuser is 7 degrees relative to the floor, this angle can be changed by fitting some different plates ( not an easy job trackside, but possible in an hour or so)
With that the framework is complete and bolted to the underside:
Some laser cut aluminium sheet was then drawn up and ordered, and the hand-aching task of riveting it all together can start:
Each hole needs to be drilled and riveted
I have spare sections of the floor if I need to replaced some damage in future, this is what is looks like without vertical diffuser sections:
And with them in place, I left the outer pieces as the final wheel/tyre choice hadn’t been made at this point:
Side skirts to be integrated into the outer floor sections at a later date too:
Underside looks like this:
And the top side of the under floor looks like this when removed:
Next up, EPAS and a Tilton pedal box:
Ta-da…!
I made some jacking plates for the sill stands:
Now comes the start of the demise – fitting a 1.8T 20v from a Golf GTi / S3 / Cupra R etc.
This doesn’t fit in a 1991 VW Polo in any way, shape or form. The first incarnation was using a 02M 6-speed from a Cupra R and a K04-064 Turbo from a Cupra racecar (including manifold) and a stub shaft from a VW Sharan with an Audi A3 TDi intermediate shaft to give equal length driveshafts.
A cheap(ish) OEM parts bin powertrain:
Many hours were spent hacking bits around to make this fit:
It was then clear that the engine position I wanted would mean the Polo steering rack had to go.
As I had the EPAS system from a Corsa, the steering rack was an obvious choice, given the steering arms are either end of it, not centrally mounted like the original Polo one:
The chassis at this point had significant alterations to the front chassis legs:
And the steering rack was proving to be equally challenging:
Mounts made:
In-fill panels mocked up:
And a pig-awful job nearer to completion:
A bespoke subframe was made to incorporate the rear engine mount:
I then decided to maximise the new found space by filling it with a tubular manifold and ex-BTCC Owen Developments Turbo:
The largest radiator I could fit was positioned:
Followed by a modified Evo intercooler core:
The standard inlet manifold would stick out the bonnet massively:
So at this point, in parallel with a house move, I shipped the Polo off for boost pipes, inlet and exhaust completion (I don’t have a TIG welder and haven’t done it for a few decades at this point)
So it was pushed outside and trailered to my mate Dave, who’s built a few awesome cars, a bike engined Derby amongst them:
Dave delivered some elegantly simple boost pipe runs and inlet design:
Bosses for pressure transducers and thermocouples:
My old faithful Tial BOV still going strong:
It was all going so well… until I started trying to achieve decent suspension geometry. The Polo doesn’t have a subframe as standard, it has a single-track control arm which is loosely held in position by an anti-roll bar.
For many years people have adapted early Escort compression struts to offer caster adjustment and try to mitigate wheel movement fore and aft, bump steer remains a big problem in early polos due to steering rack design and position, the standard upright has the mounting point welded to the strut with an integrated wheel hub.
To change from the single upright to a separate strut and hub I bought some Vento VR6 challenge car coilovers:
Then made a set of spherical top mounts to compensate the caster angle I wanted to run whist bridging the gap between my welded in strut mounts on the Polo and the mono-tube strut from Bilstien:
The wheel hubs were then changed to a 5x100 from a Mk3 Golf VR6 which fit in the hub-housing of a Mk2 Golf:
A mock-up wheel is then fitted:
And weeks of measuring bump steer, camber gain, max/min adjustment then started:
That then gave me some targets of how much the chosen parts would have to be modified, first up was the lower ball joint position hub side, this was dropped and changed to a spherical bearing (common with a Lola T70)
Made to my drawing by Noath, who are great:
With a castle nut on the underside:
And the ‘light-bulbs’ then tacked to a stut to have the bearings pressed in, allowing the ball joint replacements to be bolted (and later welded) in situ
Many more parts then ordered:
Multiple mounting points assessed, measured, mocked-up, rinse and repeat:
What I would compromise with was this:
This wasn’t ideal as the front pickup points are not in the ideal height (Z) or width (Y) the longitudinal position (X) is also sub-optimal as they’re all dictated by the wider powertrain and clearance required.
This coupled with the steering arm mounting on the hub side, is where the project stalled and ‘Polo GT1’ came to a halt. The ideal solution for both the aforementioned problems was to design a bespoke front upright.
This at the time was too expensive, and I was concerned that after sinking several thousand into bespoke uprights and the changes to everything attached to them (brakes, suspension, CV joints, Wheel speed sensors etc) I wouldn’t be left with much change from £10k.
I parked the car up, and went back to the drawing board. Next chapter is ‘Polo GT2’
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