Casing behind the instrument display
Discussion
Hi Paul, I had similar problems. (I assume you mean the top 'half' of the cowl around the instrument pod?)
That moulding is fixed at the rear by 2 self tapping screws into 'tabs' on the the better located bottom half. The front of the moulding is an interference fit into the gap around the alloy surround of the speedo'/instrument cluster. My issue was that the interference....had stopped interfering!! I tried gluing thin velcro strips to get a better grip.
In the end, I used some 25 x 2mm ali flat bar shaped to fit over the top of the alloy surround. I fixed the flat bar under the post holding the shift light array above the top cowl. It takes a bit of trial and error along with careful measuring, but it works and you can polish the flat bar to get a good finish.
Nick
That moulding is fixed at the rear by 2 self tapping screws into 'tabs' on the the better located bottom half. The front of the moulding is an interference fit into the gap around the alloy surround of the speedo'/instrument cluster. My issue was that the interference....had stopped interfering!! I tried gluing thin velcro strips to get a better grip.
In the end, I used some 25 x 2mm ali flat bar shaped to fit over the top of the alloy surround. I fixed the flat bar under the post holding the shift light array above the top cowl. It takes a bit of trial and error along with careful measuring, but it works and you can polish the flat bar to get a good finish.
Nick
It happens a lot on the early cars. Some people engineer a proper solution, eg as posted above, and others (incl the factory and some main dealers back in the day) use glue.
Mine is carbon so I've stuck it with black pu but I used to use clear epoxy when it was trimmed in portland vinyl.
Mine is carbon so I've stuck it with black pu but I used to use clear epoxy when it was trimmed in portland vinyl.
My solution is thus.
If you drop the wheel to its lowest point you can just about get behind the top instrument cowl ( easier if you just remove the top cowl). Behind it you see the aluminium form that runs the length of the dash and a small gap with the leather dash top just above. Get some high density foam and wedge/ stick it in the gap between the aluminium and leather. This creates a cushion that the back of the top cowl sits on when you push the steering wheel back into position. This puts mild pressure on the top cowl seating to into the instrument face. Mine hasn't budged for years now.
If you drop the wheel to its lowest point you can just about get behind the top instrument cowl ( easier if you just remove the top cowl). Behind it you see the aluminium form that runs the length of the dash and a small gap with the leather dash top just above. Get some high density foam and wedge/ stick it in the gap between the aluminium and leather. This creates a cushion that the back of the top cowl sits on when you push the steering wheel back into position. This puts mild pressure on the top cowl seating to into the instrument face. Mine hasn't budged for years now.
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