Door actuator & window drop
Door actuator & window drop
Author
Discussion

foz01

Original Poster:

773 posts

287 months

Friday 24th November 2006
quotequote all
My car was sittign around for approx 5 weeks whilst waiting for parts now the drivers door is misbehaving, a much bigger pause when pressign the button and the window no longer closes when the door is shut, I used to just use the alarm as it shut the windows automatically now t seems you have to arm/disarm up to 4 times for the window to close.

is this common?

tried the search but its the google version and nothing was coming up

ta

foz

mellow yellow

7,044 posts

251 months

Friday 24th November 2006
quotequote all
I had very similar problem on Tuscan 2 Convertible, the sensor had dropped of into the sill of the car. It allowed me to close the window with the door open, and stupid me...shut the door marking the paintwork...luckily didn't smash the window. Also I used the alarm to shut the window. Besides the sensoe they also replaced the 'Z' shaped mechanism in the door that holds the window which is driven by the window motor....Still not absolutely perfect...tends to clunk when the window closes to the top and gets to the end of the travel. I can imagine its a pain for parts at the moment...if your garage are struggling try TVR Power they may well be able to help.

andyoleary

1,713 posts

237 months

Friday 24th November 2006
quotequote all
I have a similar problem at the moment. My driver's window started playing up yesterday - seems like the encoder in the door is not sending any pulses back to the door ECU. I swapped the encoder out but still same problem. Swapped the ECU's over and the fault didn't move so I am thinking it must be a wiring issue.

I took the panel off again and checked the continuity of the wires back from the encoder connector to the ECU connector and found that 2 of the 3 wires are open circuit/very high resistance. After talking to a couple of people, it seems that the likely culprit is the main door loom connector which sits outside the door hinge assembly - will need to take the door off to get at it though.....raining now so might leave it until tomorrow.

Can still open and close the window/door etc but have to raise the window the last couple of inches using the dial from within the car from the passenger side if I want to lock the car with the window right up.

Andy

fimbo

313 posts

252 months

Friday 24th November 2006
quotequote all
I posted on this site the other day about the problem with mine where the window drops normally but does not close up when the door is closed. To close it: from inside I use the window switch as normal; from outside, I have to lock the car. This seems to have coincided with the fact that the interior light no longer comes on when the door is opened (bulb is fine). I am told that the window sensor relies, in part, on detecting if the interior light is on or off when deciding whether or not to close the window. The door switch for the interior light is behind the chrome plate covering the door mechanism. I don't know whether this is related to the cause of your problems. I think mine is due a visit to the garage.

Neil

foz01

Original Poster:

773 posts

287 months

Monday 27th November 2006
quotequote all
I meant to have a poke around at the weekend but never got round to it, the window also seems to only drop in sections, ie half the height at any time, fecking thing

yzf1070

814 posts

255 months

Monday 27th November 2006
quotequote all
There is a micro switch behind the stainless plate, as one would expect its crap, very flimsey. The lever on the micro switch is deflected to close the switch when the door is closed. (The strike knob on the door operates a latch in the lock which in turn bears on the micro switch lever). The lever on the micro switch can be deflected so that it does not operate the button on the micro switch itself, this will stop the window winding back up when the door is closed. However if the window is manually returned to closed then when the door is again opened normally, the window drops as it should. Its a good idea to have a couple spare switches. I am going to try to source a better alternative from the likes of Radio Spares.

G

foz01

Original Poster:

773 posts

287 months

Monday 27th November 2006
quotequote all
How much does tvr require for this switch

fimbo

313 posts

252 months

Monday 27th November 2006
quotequote all
my window now works again - my poking around the door plate where the microswitch is did nothing but, having read elsewhere on these pages that lowering the window in notches and then closing it up apparently resets a unit in the door which works out where the window is...I decided to put it to the test and, yep, it worked!

Just so I don't miss anything out, I'll relive my trip to the petrol station: whilst driving I drop the window in notches then after it is fully open close it up. Arrive at petrol station (stares all around), ignition off, exit car to fill up, window drops on opening but does not close up when door closed. Fill car with petrol, lock car (window closes). Return to car, window drops on opening and closes up when door closed - miracle!

yzf1070

814 posts

255 months

Tuesday 28th November 2006
quotequote all
fimbo said:
lock car (window closes). Return to car, window drops on opening and closes up when door closed - miracle!


The answer is in your text above. When you lock the car with the keyfob the alarm unit sends out a signal to the window motor to close the windows. Regardless of whether the sensor unit has lost position of the window the window motor attempts to drive. If the closed switch on the motor is not made, the window will drive closed (if the closed switch is made then the motor will not drive). This has the effect of resetting the window position sensor. If the windows then again fail to work properly the fault does reside elsewhere. As I said earlier the micro switches are very flimsey and with my car the drivers side was opeating intermittently. I have put in place a temp fix which works, but the proper solution is to replace with a more robust unit. (A familiar trait with TVR ownership). The sensor units can fail subject to water soaking (simply washing the car off). The answer here is to encapsulate the sensor with a (non acetic acid) silicone sealant. Depending on the circuit board corrosion you may have to replace the sensor as well.

It's well documented elsewhere within the forum.

G

P7 TUS

6,794 posts

242 months

Tuesday 28th November 2006
quotequote all
I,m having the same problem, checked micro switches all ok. Next thing to check is the ECU but where is it located?

yzf1070

814 posts

255 months

Tuesday 28th November 2006
quotequote all
you need to remove the inner door panel to get access to the PCB and its best to do it with the window UP.

good luck G

andyoleary

1,713 posts

237 months

Tuesday 28th November 2006
quotequote all
P7 TUS said:
I,m having the same problem, checked micro switches all ok. Next thing to check is the ECU but where is it located?


Encoder is in the door panel mounted to the window motor. The ECU's are in the central column - unscrew the 2 philips screws either side of the centre console and the third screw under the rear vent and lift the console out - you will see the 2 ECU units either side of the ashtray.

Andy

foz01

Original Poster:

773 posts

287 months

Tuesday 5th December 2006
quotequote all
need to give this a go at the weekend, as its still playing up as discussed above...

Spoke to my local dealer and they dont carry these parts in stock and they said it could be a multitude of reasons